Question about True Refrigerators
I hand turn the defrost timer n the defrost cycle comes on.but not too sure if maybe my timer might be faulty too.n not activating at all times when it should
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM
Posted on Apr 05, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: finding the thermostat polarity
The only way to eliminate the thermostat is to remove and test the 2 connections while changing the settings. Or place a similar thermostat in its place to see the results. Thermostats can stick on or off.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
You might want to check and make sure the interior fan is working above the evaporator coils. If the fan isn't working the air won't circulate over the evaporator and it will frost over very quickly, and also cold air won't be pushed into the fridge side.
The fan might turn off when the door is open, hold the door switch shut while you check it.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing over
You are probably correct, the auto defrost sub-system is faulty -- and probably the timer. You'll have to take the back panel out of the freezer to see the defrost timer.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
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