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Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
In the middle of each burner, there is a small brass ring that screws in the burner. If you unscrew all five and pull the knobs, the top should come off. From there you can access the electronics. Because all the burners ignite at the same time, I would suspect either a disconnected or shorted wire on your right burner or some corrosion has occurred at that burner preventing it from grounding properly.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
had same problem. Used fine sandpaper on the little head (just above the white ceramic) that creates the spark. over the years the edges of the littel metal ring had gummed up but a 1 min sanding got it down to shinny metal and it sparked nicely.
I agree with two of the reviews here. Every so often after a good cleaning, or most recently after some oil spilled over, I had a burner that wouldn't light. All of them clicked, but the one I wanted didn't light. So after reading the above posts, I unscrew the hex nut, removed the shimmer ring, and cleaned it, and mopped up a bunch of oil under where the ring sits. Put everything back together and lit it manually. After 30 secs of flame I shut it down and tried to light it automatically. It worked! Looks like, thanks to some folks here, that I saved myself an annoying phone call and possible repair bill!
A lot of questions on this site but very few answers. I have the same problem. After an overflow from a pot, the 2 front burners now won't light one rear one lights but won't stop sparking and the littlest one is fine.
The Thermocoupler is faulty or has a bad connection - once the burner is lit, it heats the thermocoupler which then send a small signal to the valve to stay on - at that time you release the knob and the valve stays on ( supplies gas). If you give me a model number, i can get you a part number and price.
I just installed a Wolf gas cooktop and had the same problem in that all 4 burners would light just fine but the electronic igniters would not stop clicking on all four. What I found was that the electrical outlet that my gas cooktop was plugged into had the polarity reversed. I tested the outlet with a polarity testing module (you can get one at Home Depot and it checks polarity, grounding, GFI and is handy to have around, small and inexpensive). I plugged it in and the lights told me that the polarity was reversed. I reversed the wires in the outlet (exchanged the white and black wires) put the cover back on, plugged in the cook top and now it works like a champ! no more constant clicking. By the way, we had a cooktop before this one with electronic ignition and never had a problem, apparently it didn't care about the polarity.
I did have the same problem after the house keeping people done with cleaning. They used window/surface cleaner. First I asked them not to clean the ignitor with any cleaner. Here is what I did to solve the problem
I took scotch scour pad (one that you use for washing dishes), In dry state I polished ignitor switch. It is abrading the residuals and deposits on the top and polishing it. Don't use any thing more abrasive than that. MAGIC - I don't have any more problem.