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I am having problems with my Samsung LN32C350D1DXZA. The top half of the screen flickers. I can still see the graphics in all modes.

I've looked at buying the two boards, I just don't know which board I would have to replace or if I could just fix the problem myself.

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Fault with the main power supply regulator board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.

Posted on Dec 11, 2014

Testimonial: "Samsung BN44-00369D Power Supply for LN32C350D1DXZA (, will have to be replaced if I cannot find the faulty component/s? It's only $20 so I might just replace the whole board. The other board, Samsung BN94-02649K Main Board for LN32C350D1DXZA (, is the more expensive one ($35)."


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We have a Samsung LED TV 65 un65f6350af. The bottom half of the screen is dimmer than the top and there is an intermittent flicker on the bottom half as well. Top half looks perfectly normal.

Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.

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Problem with setting refresh rate.

Most LCD manufacturer recommend 60Hz, all the LCD monitors (close to 100, 2 monitors per work station) at my office are set to native resolution and @60Hz, LCD refresh rate does not work the same as the old style CRT. You can tell by using the digital camera to see if the screen is flickering or not, point the camera at the CRT monitor and you will see the screen will be rolling but not on hte LCD screen. Try this monitor with other PC.

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Upon Start Up my Monitor flickers on for just a second when the blue screen appears, then it goes black. I have to reboot many times before it comes on. I've reset power settings, updated driver for the...

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Top half of screen going black.

I've seen this or something similar to this problem on an old lcd screen. The bulb haden't burned out but the system was no longer getting proper 5 volts to the processor chip that processed the image. I ended up desoldering the voltage regulator and soldering a new regulator in it's place it was one with the same amperage so I put a heatsink on it to reduce the chance of another failure.

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Graphics card problem


I looked up your Monitors specefications to try to confirm my theory. Which is that this is a resolution problem. Your Monitor is rated for a maximum resolution of 1024 x 768 at 68 Mhz so this is the max that your Video card can drive this at. However with a CRT Monitor running them at their MAX for extended periods of time can lead to the fuzzyness your talking about. Its likely that when you switched it to the On board or secondary videocard that it defaulted to the standard SVGA display levels of 800 x 600 resolution. Allowing the Video card to increase the refresh rate to 85Mhz.

Which coincidentally is what the Samsung recommends as the optimum setting for this monitor so I believe if you scale down to 800 X 600 @ 85Mhz I think this will clear up your problem. Though if your like me you like to maximize your screen real estate as much as possible.

There are alot of monitors in the market for around $100 USD that have "Native" resolutions of around 1280 X 1024 @ 75Mhz

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The problem is most likley the TV backlight - it is very unlikley to be the graphics card or video input or any other circuitry within the TV.
Also, the problem can be manifested by flashing or flickering of one or both halves of the screen, and sometimes it is a left/right split rather than a top/bottom split, depending on where the lights are positioned. Before failure, you sometimes hear a very high frequency buzz for a few weeks before it fails - the frequency can't be heard by most adults as it ranges from 15kHz-25kHz, but children\animals can usually hear it.
Generally you will need to replace the backlight tube or the invertor that drives it. Generally you can identify the backlights as thin glass tubes buried deep within the panel itself usually with one wire going to each end of them - they are very fragile. The invertor is connected to the backlight tube and looks like a circuit board, often containing a high voltage warning. Usually there are two or four conductors connecting the invertor to the tubes, which can be identified as thicker individual wires as opposed to the flat ribbon wire used for data for the actual image displayed on the screen.
On some screens you may be able to unplug\swap one or both tubes to identify if it's the tube or inverter.

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My Screen!!!

restatrt your system and press F8 KEY UNTILL U GET MENU.

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restart in normal mode u get good display in original content.
pls notify this solution

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