Question about Bosch Refrigerators

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We had a power outage. When I switched the fridge back on it wont reset, all the lights are flashing (green and red) and there is a tick sound that goes with the flashing. Its been like this for sever

When the power went out I switched the fridge off. It was out for many hours. I put it back on after the power was on again. We often have power outages and sometimes if we're not home we aren't able to switch the fridge off so that the power surge doesn't effect it. I've also tried to press down the buttons that govern the temperate of the freezer and fridge as well as switching power on and off again,

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  • Bosch Master
  • 3,368 Answers

It sounds like you took a power surge. Contact your insurance company.

Posted on Dec 11, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: GE freezer/ bottom refrig won't turn on after short power outage

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Does it have a light inside? Is the bulb good? does the light go out when you push the button in? Why was power off? To change over to your name doesn't require the power co to kill power. At least it doesn't here. Try plugging in a lamp or other appliance to the outlet. Does this work?
It may have went into defrost and will take up to 30 minutes maybe longer with power applied before it comes back on.
Checking power inside the box next power to the compressor.

Yes power to compressor?


. To Decide if Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly.
Parameters’ are as follows and must MUST be true before continuing:
1 Condencer coil (outside coil) Clean and open for a ir flow
2 Condensor Fan motor is running and turning at enough speed and correct direction.
3 Voltage to the compressor is correct and supplied.
4 Decide if the compressor is Hot or warm or cold to the touch for future reference.
Cold or Hot
Could it be the compressor not running or that it has overloaded?
If you suspect the compressor try to follow this to decide your next step:
These little helps allow you to get the compressor running or decide that it needs replacing
1 Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.
A. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. No Need to go further.
B. If the compressor is hot and you read through some points on the compressor motor (pins or terminals) but not through others wait up to 24 hours for an internal over load to reset. Internal type, usually AC and larger Refrigeration Compressors. Smaller refrigerator type compressors have an external over load. After 24 hours off or yours has an external overload re-ohm and see if all have readings to each other. If these read open IE No resistance between each other the compressor is bad.
Results your looking for:
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
After 3 or 4 tries if the results don’t add up the compressor motor is bad. Replacement is required. Is this machine worth a new compressor? Is it still under warranty? Is the labor and all parts covered?
2 Assuming the above checks out:
Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and run capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration..
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
No Power to compressor decide if you have a thermostat or a sensor. Thermostats have a knob and a small metal tube extending into the air on the refrigerator side. An electronic controls type has a sensor and a board that require a sheet of instructions to check out.
A thermostat type is easy to check put the wires together temporary and see if the compressor starts has voltage to it then, if so replace the thermostat.
I recomend if you have an electronic board and decide to replace it replace the sensor as well.


30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Burning Smell

go to the appliaces store and buy an rc4 three in one reley its simple to put on and more than likely the culpret it you have any promblems putting it on reply to me esp if the reley thats on it is white

Posted on Feb 18, 2008

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Samsung side

Read reviews on this product by doing a Google search. You may find that this is a recurring problem with this model then decide what you want to do.

Posted on May 06, 2008

Bogie Boy
  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: after power outage, fridge does not work but freezer does

Sounds like a thermostat got damaged when the power surged when utilities were restored. Thermostats are usually behind the temperature controller. Hope I've helped. BB

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: I have an fisher and

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
You should enter the diagnostic mode to determin your fault:

Diagnostic Mode

To enter diagnostic modes, press and hold the MENU button

- then press the UP button for 4 seconds. The PC temperature

will be displayed on the LCD. The actual temperature of the PC is

shown. Note Temperatures are shown in Degrees Centigrade.

PC Sensor Temperature ____

- By pressing the Up button once more, this

will indicate the FC sensor temperature. Note: The "min" indicates minus 12°C

FC Sensor Temperature

- By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the Defrost sensor temperature.

Defrost Sensor Temperature

- By pressing the Up button once more, this will indicate the input/Output Status.

Input/Output Status

- Press UP one and two more time, both LCDs display 87.5 but should be ignored

Spare/ Blanks

- Press UP one more time and fault history will be shown.

Fault History

To exit diagnostic mode press MENU button


FAULT CODES:


A wrench symbol and LCD fault code will appear automatically if there is a fault in the

temperature measuring system, defrost system, fans or low ambient heater.

When the PC door is opened an alarm will sound, the number of beeps also indicates

the fault code. Pressing any of the control buttons can deactivate these alarms

Fault Code 1

Reason: On last power up, the power module failed self test.

Primary Action: Replace power module

Fault Code 2

Reason: The previous 2 defrosts were aborted after 30 minutes

Primary Action: Check defrost element

Fault Code 3

Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range

(>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module

Fault Code 4

Reason: The resistance of all the temperature sensors is outside the normal range

(

Primary Action: Check 6 -way Rast connector at power module

Fault Code 5

Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 6

Reason: The resistance of the FC sensors is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 7

Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector at power module

Fault Code 8

Reason: The resistance of the Defrost sensor is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 9

Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (>45K Ohms)

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 10

Reason: The resistance of the PC sensors is outside the normal range (

Primary Action: Check sensor connector

Fault Code 11

Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is lower than expected

Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module.

Fault Code 12

Reason: The current for the LAH, PC &FC Fan is higher than expected

Primary Action: Check the 6 way fan/LAH, connector at module.

Fault Code 13

Reason: LAH is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: LAH open circuit

Fault Code 14

Reason: LAH is drawing higher current than expected.

Primary Action: Check wiring connection

Fault Code 15

Reason: PC fan is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: PC fan open circuit

Fault Code 16

Reason: PC fan is drawing higher than expected current

Primary Action: Check fan wiring or connections

Fault Code 17

Reason: FC fan is drawing less current than expected.

Primary Action: FC fan open circuit

Fault Code 18

Reason: FC fan is drawing higher current than expected.

Primary Action: Check FC fan & wiring circuit


There are also Ice maker faults that are NOT included above. This should get you started and if everything passes above diagnosis the problem is most likely in your ice maker circuit. The reason I did not include ice maker faults is because they do not cause alarms.


Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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