I have a kenmore induction range - model 970 6701. I has worked fine for 10 days but now has stopped all functions. I have checked the power house breaker. Every 10 min the lights and beep come on for
Model 970 6701
Initially the controls came back after a few min. I rest the oven and it lasted for 20 min, after this happened twice the controls quit entirely. I flipped the house breaker off and on to make sure that was working. Should I unplug the stove for now??
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I see that you are having difficulty with your induction range element on your Electrolux range. From the information you have provided it is taking longer for items to heat up on that burner. You may need to have that burner replaced and I would recommend having a professional technician come out to perform any repairs. This is not a simple DIY job it may require a possible disassembly of your range. I hope this information has been helpful. -Matt
I have Bajaj Induction Cooker MAJESTY ICX 2 model. While it is working suddenly the display shows E4 and heating stopped. the on/off switch also not functioning. Pl. tell me how I will repair the cooker and what spares are required for repairing.
I have the same FE 30 problem on my KM5733 Induction cooktop whenever it's circuit breaker/isolation switch (in my house's fuse box) has been turned off and then on again. I have turned in back on after waiting a day or longer (figuring it needed to reset itself?) and the results have been hit and miss and I have had no idea why it would work sometimes and not others. Needless to say, I've trolled the net looking for answers and Miele online support is useless (unless you're ok with shelling out loads of cash to have a technician come by) and I still haven't heard back from them after lodging an enquiry.
What I have discovered from this and other forums is that these units do not like being attached to a power source which has a voltage significantly above the amount stipulated in its specifications (for my unit it's 230 Volts). After reading this I used a voltage meter to measure the voltage in one of the power outlets in my house (I have a really cheap meter I'd bought a while ago at an electronics retailer). Sure enough it was above 260 Volts which is totally beyond the range it's supposed to be for where I'm living.
The thing is, I know the unit works just fine provided it has been turned on and it doesn't get the initial FE 30 error (it's almost like you have to get past an initial voltage check and then once it's going everything is ok). If the voltage is at an "acceptable" (whatever that may be) level when it's turned on, it will turn on and then stay on even if the voltage goes up afterwards (which it obviously has done during the time from when it was last switched on until recently).
How did I get it to work this time? well I thought of ways to reduce the voltage to the unit and came across all sorts of stuff on the net including powerbox voltage reducers, optimisers, blah, blah... I thought this is total rubbish and I'm going to ring the power company and complain about the voltage being so high when it's not supposed to be. I then thought back to my old high school physics days and remembered that there's a relationship between voltage, current and resistance. I then thought the voltage to the induction cooktop (as well as to all the other power outlets/circuits in the house) is likely to drop if I plug in and turned on a lot of high resistance electrical appliances.
Sure enough, when I turned on the kettle, toaster, clothes dryer, computers, televisions, electric oil heaters, lights and dishwasher, the voltage in the power outlet I'd been measuring went down from 260 to 235 volts.
I then turned on the power to the induction top back on and it turned on and with no FE 30 error!
I boiled some water to make sure everything was working ok (it was) and then I turned off the induction top and all of the other devices I'd switched on.
Still no FE 30 error! Great.
I double checked the unit by turning it back on and boiling water again and it did it with no problems. I then turned the unit off and measured the voltage in the power outlet again and sure enough it was back at 260 Volts. Hurray!
I'm now going to ring the power company and make a complaint...
It is likely the computer in the control board I have seen this many times. It is really hard to get the factory to think this cause it's new and it is expensive. But you have checked the power so there is not much more that it could be
The best way to understand how its installed would be to check out its user manual. Since you have not provided the exact model number I was unable too narraw it down to help you with correct manual. But please click on the link bellow to download the appropriate manual:
We purchased a 36" elite model on ebay for our house we are building. I finally installed a year later only to have error codes 39 & 40. I completely dissasembled it and put it back together. No luck. However after much searching I found the service manual for the 36" Icon by Electrolux (same manufacturer as the Elite). The guts look mostly the same. Manual states your codes 10 16 12 are for defective key sensors. I found out that on my cooktop if I held a key for maybe 20 sec or more it would beep once - indicating the key was not defective.