Question about Heating & Cooling
Circuit or valve not receiving enough power to open the vent or valve? Had someone look at it, but I'm not literate on furnaces and forgot exactly what he called it. All I know is that the fireplace pilot did not light. Now it does, however, the pip with multiple openings do not light up as they once did.
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Posted on Dec 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Furnace will not heat.
Most of the Lennox G-16s that I have repaired were having problems with the gray Penn-Johnson Piggyback igniton control module.
This is best repaired by replacing the spark module. Sometimes it may be neccesary to replace the gas valve also. Lennox updated to a ROBERTSHAW ignition system. Honeywell can also be used.
Also check that there is no water in the pressure switch or tube.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Remove the burner and gas valve from the furnace and use compressed air
to blow the area under the pilot area ans all around it. The dust and
stuff usually cause a condition called "Lazy Pilot" and the flame is
probably not going in the designed directions. While you have it out Id
replace the thermocouple with a new one reassemble and re-lite and
note the difference. The flame should be mostly Blue and no yellow (or
vary little at the top end of the flame only) Orange in the top area
indicates a good burning flame and the closer to the base the bluer it
While you have the burner out look inside and inspect the inner heat exchanger for cracks or rusted open holes there should be none. Turn on your fan while inspecting and see if you feel the steady blow of air from it inside the heat exchanger indicating a hole. Don't confuse the air that may come down the flue with the air from the blower though. A little breeze is expected from this.
This will take care of over 90% of the problems with the "Blow out" symptom.
If you still have problems you can try and "turn up the pilot". Usually a screw close to the pilot tubing is covering the adjustment screw. Put some soap bubbles around it so you can see if it leaks or not and turn the screw out for more flame (CCW) and in (CW) for less.
Hope this helps Please grade me accordingly and good luck.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Go to www.grainger.com and look for a "power pile generator" this is a millivolt thermocouple that may be just what you need to make your heater work again
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
Tie red and white wires together after removing thermostat from wall, if unit comes on replace thermostat, if not check limit controls for continuity, Good luck.
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
If it indeed started that one time for a short period then cut out, the first place that I would start would be the capacitor located in the blower compartment. The capacitor gives the motor the need kick to start, and often times stays in the circuit to help the motor run more effeciently. This could very well be the problem.
If you have the option to run the fan from the thermostat, turn the fan to the "on" position and see if it starts. If it does, then it is not the capacitor.
Hope this helps
PS Your are correct about the "sensor" turning the furnace off, it is called a high limit switch and is there for safety. It is an automatic reset device, and will reconnect power once it has cool suffeciently.
Posted on Nov 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you so much for this help. We discovered a wire had worn through from the vibration of the motor, replaced the wire and good to go. Phewwww! "
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