Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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The tub starts to fill then it shuts off wont complete wash cycle

Tried different types of washes an all do the same it keeps shutting off

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  • 1,249 Answers

Depending on the model, it could be a few things:
Fill level sensor
door switch
timer
control board

The model really matters, as Maytag has been making washers for 70 years. the tub starts to fill then it shuts off wont comp - uploadserror please enter an image url (gif, jpg, png).

Posted on Dec 09, 2014

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

The cold water continues to fill the tub and not shut off


There is a pressure switch fitted to all washing machines.basically a tube outside the drum that has air inside it which responds to water going into the drum.as the air in the tube compresses it activates the switch to shut off the water and sends a new command to controller board to turn the drum and start washing.when it doesn't switch off tells me that the tube has too much water in it and won't shut off supply.you can locate the tube and empty it so it just has air in it reconnect and see if that fixes it.if it doesn't then next place to look is the switch itself and controller board.

Dec 23, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

KENMORE DISHWASHER, WATER CONTINUES TO FILL AFTER WASHER IS SHUT OFF.


You're correct you have a faulty water inlet valve. At the end of the wash cycle the solenoid in the valve is not closing properly to not allow water to re-enter the tub. For further assistance with this repai

Jan 21, 2014 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

GE WPRE8100 washer starts to fill and immediately shuts off


I would suspect the washer control panel or timer is the problem.

Jul 25, 2017 | GE Profile WPRE8100G

2 Answers

Shuts down before spin cycle


If this is a Whirlpool manufactured top loader (such as Kenmore), the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman. I hope this information is helpful.

Apr 18, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Fill cycle stops before full


It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Jan 03, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Doesn't fill with water - goes straight to agitation.


open the console and find the pressure switch. it has a clear hose attached to it. pull the hose off the switch and turn on the washer. if water starts to enter shut it off and blow through it back to the tub. some piece of junk may have plugged it causing the switch to "think" the tub is full of water. put the hos back on and run a short spin cycle to reset it and try again making sure to run a small load to see if it shuts off properly. if no water enters when hose is pulled off most likely bad pressure switch. keep the lid closed while doing these tests. some units wont work w/lid open.

May 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Must repeatedly slam top loading door shut for machine to start


on the inside of the lid there is a lid switch hole that a plastic tab goes down through the switch could be bad or the screws holding the switch in could be lose or broken

Mar 28, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Tub overflow


Remove the hose from the water level switch and blow air through it.
The water level switch air hose has a clog in it.

Feb 22, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine fills in the water but does not start the wash cycle


The fact that it does not fill completely can be related to a problem with the water-level switch, that regulates the water level.

See from Repairclinic:
"This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch."

However, when it is only the switch the mashine usually completes the cycle, but with less water than normal.

A possibilty is that either the timer is faulty or there is a problem with the water supply.

Check that water is coming from water supply with regular pressure, and that hoses back there are not obstructed.

More likely you will have to replace the timer.

See again from Repairclinic:
"When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water."

  • You can find parts at the following websites, you need to input your model number. If the part is not listed contact them.

    Repairclinic

    Partselect

    Don't forget to rate the solution.

    Many thanks.

    Sep 01, 2008 | Washing Machines

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