Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There should be a nameplate along the door opening. This is normally where Whirpool puts their information. Just open the door and look along the door or door frame opening. The nameplate data can also be located along the back of the operator console on some models. Let me know if you still can't find it. I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
take the top loose on the dryer to acces the door switch. If it is the old style it should have a metal suround over the black switch. If the metal arm piece has broke, Ttake it off and tape the white button down to make it run.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
Check your exhaust ventilation for clogs.
A simple test that you can try is to remove the exhaust duct from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes like you normally would. The air coming out of the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F).
If the air flow is good, temperature is hot and the clothes dry normally, then you need to inspect your ducting from the point where it leaves the back of your dryer, to where it exits your home. Check for any kinks, bends, sags or anything else that may create a choke point where lint can accumulate. In addition, you should be using semi-rigid aluminum ducting. It is crush and kink resistant, resists heat well and resists rodent intrusion.
If the air leaving the back of the dryer is weak, then you need to check the air blower housing INSIDE the dryer for obstructions.
Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition can actually cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this can be a fire hazard.
Lastly, if you replaced the TCO, did you additonally replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat? These two components are mounted on the outside of the heater box and work in conjunction to regulate the heating circuit. It is strongly recommended that if either of these two components go bad, you replace BOTH of them at the same time to prevent premature failure of any components you replace. I've seen it happen on numerous occasions where someone buys the kit, but only replaces one of the two components and later ends up with a non-working dryer again. That is why they are often sold as a kit. You can find the kit at appliancepartspros.com for about $20 (part number AP3094244). Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading for item 6.
If you have any questions/comments, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
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Posted on Dec 07, 2010
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Posted on Aug 27, 2011
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