Question about Amana Heating & Cooling
Tested voltage, capacitor is fine, relay operates. 125v at the heat coil terminals, 125v going through the coil itself. no heat.
Have you checked the reversing valve coil? Is the compressor running?
I am an 'Old Refrig Tech' - willing to help
Posted on Dec 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
Sounds like a downflow electric furnace? If so it sounds like you have 15kw worth of electric heat, you might have a defective heating sequencer, witch is what they call a dual on one plate.
Posted on Nov 28, 2007
SOURCE: Ruud achiever heat pump
If back-up heat comes on when a/c is turned on and then the back up heat turns off shortly after the a/c turns off, then the low voltage wiring is NOT correct. Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. this could also be your problem if the t-stat thinks it is telling the H/P to cool but the H/P is actuall interpreting the signal to heat. Check your amp draw on the furnace, if you have anything drawing 15 amps+ then it is most likely the actual elect heat running, if not then check the "B" terminal. Most universal t-stats come set from the factory to use the "O" terminal which is more common. Usually this can be changed in the installer setup menu on the stat or sometimes the stat will have separate "O" and "B" terminals
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
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