Question about Amana Heating & Cooling

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No heat. amana pth123a35ab. capacitor seams fine relay kicks in and sends juice to the coil. 125v at both terminals. 125 volt through terminals. not heating. what going on ?

Tested voltage, capacitor is fine, relay operates. 125v at the heat coil terminals, 125v going through the coil itself. no heat.

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  • Contributor
  • 21 Answers

Have you checked the reversing valve coil? Is the compressor running?
I am an 'Old Refrig Tech' - willing to help

Posted on Dec 19, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud heat pump outside unit trips circuit breaker

Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: Intertherm E1EH-015HA FURNACE no heat

Sounds like a downflow electric furnace? If so it sounds like you have 15kw worth of electric heat, you might have a defective heating sequencer, witch is what they call a dual on one plate.

Posted on Nov 28, 2007

chillmaster
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud achiever heat pump

If back-up heat comes on when a/c is turned on and then the back up heat turns off shortly after the a/c turns off, then the low voltage wiring is NOT correct. Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. this could also be your problem if the t-stat thinks it is telling the H/P to cool but the H/P is actuall interpreting the signal to heat. Check your amp draw on the furnace, if you have anything drawing 15 amps+ then it is most likely the actual elect heat running, if not then check the "B" terminal. Most universal t-stats come set from the factory to use the "O" terminal which is more common. Usually this can be changed in the installer setup menu on the stat or sometimes the stat will have separate "O" and "B" terminals

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: will not go into defrost

Did you change the thermostat in heat pump? or did you change it when you replaced the board?

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

vanni7
  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: 3 amp fuse blows on a carrier 58mcb furnace board

Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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1 Answer

Coleman eb23b, I canot get my ac unit to kick on, i just replaced the relay, sequencer, thermostat and transformer. i am not getting low 24 vac to my relay.


Gotta find where 24 stops. Possibly blown fuse, possibly losing your common. Check the 24 at relay to ground rather than both relay coil terminals to test common. Jump straight from transformer to relay to ensure that's what's happening.

Jun 12, 2017 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to set up intermatic t104m to work with two speed motor


T104 cannot be easily set up to handle 2-speed motors
You need T106 timer with NO NC terminals.

Or you can use the T104 to control relay with NO NC terminals... relay would need 240 Volt coil. Problem is most relays with NO NC terminals are 120 Volt coil or rated too low amperage for motor.

Or move T104 clock motor wires to A and 1... connect 240Volt power to A and 1... then terminals 3-4 are dry and can be used to control any voltage relay coil (120 Volt for example).
When T104 is ON, then relay uses NC terminals to send power to low speed. When T104 is OFF, then relay uses NO terminals to send power to high speed.
Buying T106 timer is probably cheaper and simpler.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJM7ZS/?tag=waterheaterti-20

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T106

http://waterheatertimer.org/Buy-T100-series-timers.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-control-centers-and-manuals.html

Gene

Sep 21, 2014 | Intermatic Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

I am working on a Amana PTH123A35AB and when turned to cooling the fan and compressor kick on but it does not blow cold air. What should I check for?


Check for pressure in the refrigeration lines because if all fans are working and the compressor is running it should be cooling. Most of the time the system is flat or severly low on freon which would mean a major leak somewhere. But first hook up guages to the system and let me know what you find ok.

Jul 21, 2011 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

1 Answer

Thermo set "heat" and "Auto


Check the fan relay. These relays are used to cut the fan on and off when the thermostat is set in the air conditioning or heating mode or when you move the thermostat to the "Fan On" position. The low voltage usually the green thermostat wire is wired to terminal #1. The low voltage common wire to terminal #3. One line voltage wire is attached to terminal #4. The high speed blower wire usually black is attached to terminal #2. When the thermostat calls for air conditioning or "Fan On" the 24 volt coil is energized, the terminals 4 and 2 close. This causes the fan to come on in high speed. When your home cools down and the thermostat cuts the air conditioner off, the low voltage coil terminals 1 & 3 are denergized, and the fan goes off. Sometimes these little relays stick which causes the fan to run all the time or will not make good contact, which causes the fan to not run in the "Fan On" or air conditioning mode.

Nov 16, 2010 | Weather King 10AJA6001AH Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Wiring diagram for Thermoking V700MAX


Red or R is the "Hot leg" of the Transformers 24volt supply,
Common or C is the "Neutral leg" of the Transformers 24 volt supply;
and the side of power to which ALL the 24 volt control circuits
terminate to complete the circuit, example; Heat=W, Cool=Y, Fan=G.
Upon a call for heat a switch closes betwen the Red and White Thermostat terminals.
The stat sends the 24 volts to White or W for the heat circuit on W on the
furnaces LVTB low voltage terminal board.
Yellow or Y goes from Thermostat to furnace Y on LVTB, which is simply
a connecting point on its way to the AC units 24v contactor coil located outdoors.
It actually isnt even attached to the furnace many times as it serves no purpose there and simply
continues to the AC unit with the copper lineset that the AC unit feeds.
The remaing 24 volt Thermostat wire goes back to common on transformer to complete the Yellow
24 volt control circuit.
Green or G exits the Thermostat and connects to G on LVTB for the fan relays 24volt coil
and returns to Common to complete the Green 24 volt control circuit.
O is for a Heat pump reversing valves 24 volt solenoid, and return to Common as all 24v circuits must to terminate or complete the circuit.
Some parasitic type Termostats need the 24v power to run, some are battery, some are both.

Nov 01, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Maytag SE1000 Series 07 dryer wont heat


Hi,
You need to have 220-240 or so volta ACROSS the two terminals on the element...the 125 can feed across and can be the same leg on both sides...

Check out this tip also..

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Apr 22, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

No cold air


  1. The filter could be dirty This is the most probable cause and, of course, the easiest to check and correct.
  2. The evaporator coil face could be coated with lint,dirt, etc.Dirt or lint on the coil will restrict the flow of air through the coil and the unit must be removed from the recreational vehicle and the soil must be thoroughly cleaned with strong detergent (Coil X,Calclean, etc.) and water. Be sure to protect the fan motor and electrical controls during cleaning by covering them with polyethylene sheet. After the system is cleaned, allow it to thoroughly dry for several hours (before turning it on) to prevent electrical shorts.Before system is put back into operation, be sure the filter is properly installed to prevent recurrence of dirty coil.
  3. No compressor (Does not try to start).The compressor does not run and it does not hum.
    1.The selector switch may be open.
    2. Thermostat may be open.
    3. Overload switch may be open.
    4. Compressor winding may be open.
  4. Selector Switch
  5. Thermostat
  6. Low Voltage
  7. Overload
  8. Compressor
  9. Wiring (Mis-wired)
  10. PTCR or Potential Relay
  11. Start Capacitor
  12. Run Capacitor
To check the selector switch, remove wires from the terminals
and rotate the switch to the proper position and read
continuity as follows:
Terminals Switch Position
L-1-3 Lo Heat
L-1 Lo Fan
L-2 Hi Fan
L-1-4 Lo Cool
L-2-4 Hi Cool


Compressor Motor
The compressor motor is located inside the hermetic
compressor housing and therefore not accessible for service or
visual observation in the field. However, the motor winding
condition can be analyzed by using an ohm meter. Be sure to
remove all the leads from the compressor terminals before
making this check.
1) If the resistance between any two terminals is 0
ohms, the motor windings are shorted.
2) If the resistance between any terminal and the
compressor housing is anything but infinity, the
winding is grounded.
3) If the resistance between any two terminals is
infinity, the winding is open.
On a good compressor, the highest resistance will be between
the R (run) and S (start) terminals. The lowest resistance will
be between the C (common) and R (run) terminals. The
intermediate resistance will be between the C (common) and
S (start) terminals. Notice that compressors have the
identification of the terminals marked on either the terminal
cover or on the compressor housing.

Capacitor Check
There are several capacitor test devices available. The ohm
meter is one of them. The ohm meter cannot verify a
capacitors MFD (microfarrad) value. However, the following
procedures will show you how to use an ohm meter to
determine if the capacitor is good, open, shorted or grounded.
Before testing any capacitor, always perform the following
procedure:
* This test must be done with a analog type meter.
a) Disconnect all electrical power to the air conditioner.
b) Discharge the capacitor with a 20,000 ohm (approx.
3 watt) resistor or larger.
c) You may discharge capacitors with a standard volt
meter if you use a scale over 500 volts and touch the
leads (one lead to each side of the capacitor). The
volt meter will discharge the capacitor.
d) Identify and disconnect the wiring from the
capacitor.
e) Set and zero the ohm meter on the “highest” scale.
When testing for a good, open or shorted capacitor,
perform the following checks: Place the ohm meter
leads across the capacitor terminals (one lead on
each terminal) and perform a continuity test. Then
observe the action of the meter needle or indicator.
Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same. Note: If the capacitor had not been
properly discharged, a false reading could be
indicated on the first test. Always test several times
(reversing the leads with each test). This will verify
the capacitors condition.
Good Capacitor
If the capacitor is good, the indicator will move from infinity
(the left side), towards zero ohms and slowly return back to
infinity. Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same.

Start Capacitor
Most models use a start capacitor and a start relay to give the
compressor high starting torque. The compressor will,
therefore, start against normal pressure difference (head
pressure minus suction pressure) even when shut down for a
short period of time. The start relay will disconnect the start
capacitor when the motor reaches approximately 75%
running speed.
Start (Potential) Relay
The start relay consists of –
1) Normally closed contacts internally between
terminals #1 and #2 which switch in the start
capacitor in parallel to the run capacitor during shut
down and then switch out the start capacitor when
the motor reaches approximately 75% normal
running speed.
2) A high voltage coil internally between terminals #5
and #2 to actuate the contacts. The coil is too weak
on line voltage to actuate the contacts, but it is
connected in series with the start winding and it gets
the generated voltage of the start winding portion of
the compressor motor. This generated voltage is
much higher than line voltage and varies with the
speed of the motor. Therefore, since the relay is
designed to open the contacts at 75% of normal
running voltage (measured between terminals #5 and
#2), the contacts will open (thus disconnect the start
capacitor) at approximately 75% of normal running
speed.
(B) Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor
(Commonly Known As PTCR Start
Device)
The resistor acts like a potential relay in that it takes the start
capacitor out of the start circuit, but uses resistance of
electrical flow (back EMF from compressor) instead of
opening a set of contacts. The service person should be careful
handling the resistors. They will be hot during operation (up
to 160 degrees F). The air conditioner needs to be off for 3-5
minutes during cycle time and when servicing to let the
resistor cool down.

191413c.jpg
That covers everthing.
Please rate this a fixya

Feb 09, 2009 | Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner

5 Answers

Amana PTAC


I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works.

Nov 02, 2008 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

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