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There is an upper (fixed) blade guard and a lower (moving) blade guard which has the added complication of being connected to a linkage or mechanism to swivel the guard away from the workpiece as it approaches the cut.
Mostly careful inspection, once the blade has been removed, will show removal of the guards to be a faily intuitive process. It is inevitable some makes of saw will be more complex and in the absence of official detailed instructions, it will mean a process of removing clips and screws until the part falls off and then remembering what you did so you can put it back together with no parts left over.
Loosen the knob at the rear of the top arm - turn it counterclockwise several turns. The blade should now be loose. Push the "blade end" of the top arm down slightly with one hand while you unhook the top of the blade. Lower the blade a little to unhook it from the bottom arm.
Replace the blade. Hook it onto the lower arm first - you can look underneath to see what you're doing. The blade's teeth should point DOWNWARD - it's easy to accidentally install it the wrong way, so check that now. Again push down slightly on the end of the upper arm, then hook the top of the blade into the upper arm's blade holder. It should how stay in place, but loosely.
Now return to that tensioning knob at the top rear. Tighten it slowly until the blade is BARELY tight, not loose. Tighten the knob 1/2-turn to one full turn tighter to tension the blade.
Drums are not "cleaned" as other parts. As the matter of fact, you should not even touch it with your bare hands! If you have "dots" or other kind of image problems, you should look around the drum at this parts:
- Drum cleaning blade, it gets wear and curved
- Charge roller, it gets dirty
- holder mylar, it retracts and let the toner drop
- bad developer, it looses its properties
- don`t forget exposure glass and mirrors
Remember this: If your drum its scratched or dotted, it have to be replaced together with the blade.
Also, VERY IMPORTANT, this job must be done by a technician, as data have to be introduced, after replacement. Not a job for rookies, or the repair cost can be doubled.Take my word! I do this every single day and never get over confident. Best regards!
I had the same trouble. The blade holder was out of the knife and would not go back in. I fixed it this way: open the screw knob all the way to the least tension. Slide the two parts open but not all the way- there is a tab on the blade holder that gets in the way if you try to drop it in at the fully open position. With the two halves SLIGHTLY open- slide the blade holder in making sure that the tab is seated in it's slot. Depress the thumb tab and bring it to the most forward position and the two halves should be able to be seated together again.
Go to www.partsdirect.com, this is sears website for parts. You should be able to find the part number for a new blade. If the blade has bolts and nuts holding the blade together it can be sharpened. If it is riveted together, it can be but it is more work than what it is worth.
If you see a set screw where the blade goes, loosen it a few turns. Then run the saw, it should spit out the broken blade. If it has a manual release for the blade, press the release while tapping the blade holder.