Question about Samsung Dryers
I'm not getting full voltage to the heating coil. It looks like Im getting voltage from the side that runs through the heater relay on the circuit board. The other side that runs through the motor has a centrifugal switch. How does this sw work and how do you replace or check it? Shows on the wiring diagram but not sure if it part of the motor or not. I don't believe it is the belt tension switch, because the wires to that sw come from the circuit board. It is a Samsung Dryer DVA331AEW/XAA
Before getting to involved have you actually checked the electrical braker and circuit?
Posted on Dec 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: the dryier runs but stop heating
Check the red wire coming in from the timer to the motor switch to see if you have power there. If you have power going into the motor but not out to the heater you need a new motor.
Posted on Jan 29, 2010
SOURCE: Dryer takes too long to heat
Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.
Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.
Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.
In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.
I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - No Heat
110 comes from the motor 110 comes from the timer remove the wire that comes from the motor see if you have 110 if you do the timer is bad if not the motor is. even if the motor is turning its bad
Posted on Jun 08, 2010
HI. Ok, this unit is equipped with four thermostats that monitor the cycling information and the heater box for optimal operations. All of the thermostats should be tested for proper functions. I suspect that the culprit will be the thermostats mounted on the heater box, but test all to isolate.
Here are all the thermostats that are to be tested, below:
1. Thermal fuse - This will be mounted on the side of the heater box(chamber). Test properly to confirm its functions.
2. Cycling Thermostat - This will be mounted on the blower housing.
3. Cycling thermostat(2) - mounted on the blower housing
4. Hi-limit thermostat - Mounted next to the thermal fuse on the heater chamber/box.
Concerning the element:
You cant always tell by looking. This device must be tested to confirm that it is indeed working as designed. It should show some signs of continuity if it is indeed functioning.
Proper testing technique for most thermostats and fuses:
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
Posted on Jul 30, 2010
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