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I'm not getting full voltage to the heating coil. It looks like Im getting voltage from the side that runs through the heater relay on the circuit board. The other side that runs through the motor h

I'm not getting full voltage to the heating coil. It looks like Im getting voltage from the side that runs through the heater relay on the circuit board. The other side that runs through the motor has a centrifugal switch. How does this sw work and how do you replace or check it? Shows on the wiring diagram but not sure if it part of the motor or not. I don't believe it is the belt tension switch, because the wires to that sw come from the circuit board. It is a Samsung Dryer DVA331AEW/XAA

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  • Samsung Master
  • 1,342 Answers

Before getting to involved have you actually checked the electrical braker and circuit?

Posted on Dec 09, 2014


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 619 Answers

SOURCE: the dryier runs but stop heating

Check the red wire coming in from the timer to the motor switch to see if you have power there. If you have power going into the motor but not out to the heater you need a new motor.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer takes too long to heat

Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.

Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.

Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.

In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.

I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint dryer nvl333eyoww, Motor runs, heating

Did you ohm out the thermal overload?

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 523 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - No Heat

110 comes from the motor 110 comes from the timer remove the wire that comes from the motor see if you have 110 if you do the timer is bad if not the motor is. even if the motor is turning its bad

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung dryer Mod DV328AEW/XAA electric 220v

HI. Ok, this unit is equipped with four thermostats that monitor the cycling information and the heater box for optimal operations. All of the thermostats should be tested for proper functions. I suspect that the culprit will be the thermostats mounted on the heater box, but test all to isolate.

Here are all the thermostats that are to be tested, below:

1. Thermal fuse - This will be mounted on the side of the heater box(chamber). Test properly to confirm its functions.
2. Cycling Thermostat - This will be mounted on the blower housing.
3. Cycling thermostat(2) - mounted on the blower housing
4. Hi-limit thermostat - Mounted next to the thermal fuse on the heater chamber/box.

Concerning the element:

You cant always tell by looking. This device must be tested to confirm that it is indeed working as designed. It should show some signs of continuity if it is indeed functioning.

Proper testing technique for most thermostats and fuses:

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

Posted on Jul 30, 2010

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Make sure battery has a full charge. Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil, engine cranking, dark green wire with orange tracer? Use a test light, is it hot? The voltage comes from asd relay, check voltage and ground circuits. The load side of relay is that line with arrowhead, that circuit is fuse protected and hot all the time. The control side of relay is the left side in diagram, has to have voltage and ground. The voltage appears to come from ignition switch on or cranking. Grounded by computer.
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Are the fans running on low or high ?
Circuit/System Description
The engine control module (ECM) commands the fans ON in either high speed or low speed, depending on cooling requirements. In low speed, both fans are turned ON at a reduced speed. High speed has both fans turned ON at full speed.
In low speed operation, the ECM applies ground to the coil side of the fan low relay. This energizes the coil and applies voltage directly to the left cooling fan through the switch side of the fan low relay, which is fed by the fan 1 fuse. The right fan is connected in series to the left fan through the de-energized fan control relay so that both operate at low speed.
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Your best bet is to take it to a ASE certified repair shop !

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Looking for trouble shooting help with 2002 fuel pump under turbo chevy 3500 4x4 crew cab pickup. Relay doesn't seem to be getting signal to it from (?).i put voltmeter on coil side of relay and turn...

Did you do it like this? Voltmeter: black lead on negative battery terminal, positive lead on one of terminals on coil side- turn key to on, and see if there is voltage for about 2 seconds. If yes, check negative terminal of relay's coil side. If no voltage, move positive lead to other terminal for coil side. Turn key to on, and see if you have voltage for about 2 seconds. If yes, test negative side of relay's coil for good ground. If no signal at either terminal, the signal may be lost from the pcm.

When you turn the key to on, this will prime the fuel system-pump will turn on for only 2 seconds with key in on, and then if no crank signal, pump will turn off (the relay will not stay energized, so no power will go to pump). But when the engine is cranking over, the relay is energized, the coil side will stay powered as long as engine is cranking. After the engine is running, usually an oil pressure switch is tied into the fuel pump circuit, so the relay is no longer needed to put power to the pump. The pump will always be running when engine is cranking, and when engine is running, but the relay no longer is needed when engine is running. See?

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Dayton heater mod 2yu59 is not heating up?

Need to check the low voltage circuit for 24 volts, the 480 volt to 24 volt transformer may have a circuit protection reset or fuse installed. All the 3 phase electric heaters use a low voltage control circuit for operation of relays (24 volt coils).

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