Question about Samsung Dryers

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I'm not getting full voltage to the heating coil. It looks like Im getting voltage from the side that runs through the heater relay on the circuit board. The other side that runs through the motor h

I'm not getting full voltage to the heating coil. It looks like Im getting voltage from the side that runs through the heater relay on the circuit board. The other side that runs through the motor has a centrifugal switch. How does this sw work and how do you replace or check it? Shows on the wiring diagram but not sure if it part of the motor or not. I don't believe it is the belt tension switch, because the wires to that sw come from the circuit board. It is a Samsung Dryer DVA331AEW/XAA

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  • Samsung Master
  • 1,342 Answers

Before getting to involved have you actually checked the electrical braker and circuit?

Posted on Dec 09, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

iwillfixforu
  • 619 Answers

SOURCE: the dryier runs but stop heating

Check the red wire coming in from the timer to the motor switch to see if you have power there. If you have power going into the motor but not out to the heater you need a new motor.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer takes too long to heat

Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.

Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.

Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.

In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.

I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint dryer nvl333eyoww, Motor runs, heating

Did you ohm out the thermal overload?

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 523 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - No Heat

110 comes from the motor 110 comes from the timer remove the wire that comes from the motor see if you have 110 if you do the timer is bad if not the motor is. even if the motor is turning its bad

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung dryer Mod DV328AEW/XAA electric 220v

HI. Ok, this unit is equipped with four thermostats that monitor the cycling information and the heater box for optimal operations. All of the thermostats should be tested for proper functions. I suspect that the culprit will be the thermostats mounted on the heater box, but test all to isolate.

Here are all the thermostats that are to be tested, below:

1. Thermal fuse - This will be mounted on the side of the heater box(chamber). Test properly to confirm its functions.
2. Cycling Thermostat - This will be mounted on the blower housing.
3. Cycling thermostat(2) - mounted on the blower housing
4. Hi-limit thermostat - Mounted next to the thermal fuse on the heater chamber/box.


Concerning the element:

You cant always tell by looking. This device must be tested to confirm that it is indeed working as designed. It should show some signs of continuity if it is indeed functioning.

Proper testing technique for most thermostats and fuses:

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.


Posted on Jul 30, 2010

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1991 Dodge Dakota 2.5 liter 4 cyc blew fuse I replaced fuse no start have replaced pick up coil ,coil,plugs ,wires, cap,rotor,fues all good still no spark and no start helllppppp please!!!!!


Make sure battery has a full charge. Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil, engine cranking, dark green wire with orange tracer? Use a test light, is it hot? The voltage comes from asd relay, check voltage and ground circuits. The load side of relay is that line with arrowhead, that circuit is fuse protected and hot all the time. The control side of relay is the left side in diagram, has to have voltage and ground. The voltage appears to come from ignition switch on or cranking. Grounded by computer.
The distributor has a sensor in it that sends rpm signal to computer, w/o that signal the computer won't ground the asd relay and you get nothing. The asd relay sends voltage to several systems. Just my opinion. Any applicable trouble codes?
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Power windows and audio not working


This for power windows. The diagram should be enough to get you started on diagnostics. Check fuses and circuit breaker, also check for voltage on those circuits, use a test light to check for voltage. The accessory relay has to be energized. If you have voltage at load side of relay, you can bypass relay, with relay unplugged, use proper size jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87, the power windows should work. If so, the problem should be on the control/coil side of relay, voltage and ground, as you can see the instrument cluster grounds the coil side of relay.
I haven't looked at your audio yet?
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Nov 30, 2016 | 2004 Ford Explorer

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I have a 99 s-10. I'm getting the signal from ignition to the relay. But my fuel pump doesn't run nor does truck turn over.


There are two voltage circuits at the relay, one is the ecm B fuse, did you check that ? There are two side of the relay, the load side, see the arm with arrowhead, when relay is energized, that arm moves to other terminal carries voltage to pump motor on gray wire.
The control side of relay is the coil looking sign in the diagram, gets voltage from pcm, the black wire is chassis ground. Just to add, I looked at 6 cylinder.
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Engine cold. Start engine reading says engine hot ac off. Fans run all time.


Are the fans running on low or high ?
Circuit/System Description
The engine control module (ECM) commands the fans ON in either high speed or low speed, depending on cooling requirements. In low speed, both fans are turned ON at a reduced speed. High speed has both fans turned ON at full speed.
In low speed operation, the ECM applies ground to the coil side of the fan low relay. This energizes the coil and applies voltage directly to the left cooling fan through the switch side of the fan low relay, which is fed by the fan 1 fuse. The right fan is connected in series to the left fan through the de-energized fan control relay so that both operate at low speed.
In high speed operation, the ECM applies a ground to the coil side of the fan low relay, the fan control relay , and the fan high relay. On the fan high relay, the energized coil closes the switch side of the relay and applies voltage directly to the right cooling fan through the switch side of the relay, which is fed by the fan 2 fuse. At the same time, the ECM energizes fan control relay pulling the switch side over, providing a direct path to ground for the left cooling fan, which has voltage applied through the energized fan low relay. In high speed mode, the fans are operated as a parallel circuit with full voltage applied to each.
You should have it hooked up to a scan tool that can read engine sensor data parameters . Check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes etc...
Circuit/System Verification
  1. If DTCs P0480 or P0481 are set, perform those diagnostics first.
  2. Ignition ON, verify with a scan tool that the control module is not commanding fan activation.
  3. Ignition ON, observe that the fans are not activated.
Your best bet is to take it to a ASE certified repair shop !

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I have a good heatpump with goodman air handler. the air handler has a sequencer and a blower relay. the blower relay quit working and i replaced it with a supco 90340 relay. the problem now is in the...


Your green wire from the tstat and the low voltage common should land on the relay coil. Your high voltage for the blower lands on normally open. Sounds like you are using your red (constant 24v) to energize your relay. Therefore your relay is constantly energized and your blower runs constantly. Let me know!!

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Need to check the low voltage circuit for 24 volts, the 480 volt to 24 volt transformer may have a circuit protection reset or fuse installed. All the 3 phase electric heaters use a low voltage control circuit for operation of relays (24 volt coils).

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I have an Atwood Hot Water Heater, Model GE 16 EXT, 10 gallon tank. It won't stop heating, gas or electric. Replaced the ECO/T-Stat with a new kit. It still will not stop heating. What else can I try?


Start is usually a momentary circuit. It closes a secondary circuit commonly addressed as the run circuit. Secondary. It sounds like the secondary (run) circuit is stuck closed and the thermostat cannot cancel it out when the temp is reached. The primary circuit is generally low voltage, 15vDC controlled by the t-stat and the secondary high voltage (110v A.C., is engaged on signal from the t-stat. You replaced the stat so that is not an issue. The low voltage controls a rela, Large and small wires are connected to this relay. These relays have or are contacts and they do fail. Either they stick or not work at all. Take caution with this relay because it will also make your hair stand on end if attention isn't given to the 110v side. Food Luck and be safe. -Ned

BY THE WAY, a TOWN CAR WITH AN aTWOOD 10 GALLON WATER HEATER?hMMM.

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Po540 code


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Faulty IAH Relay

Faulty IAH Relay Control Circuit

Faulty Line Voltage Reference Circuit

Faulty Heating Element

Faulty ECM

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1 Answer

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