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I got a new dryer Kenmore elite he4t, as soon as I plug it in it trips the breaker. I changed the outletfrom a 3prong to a 4 prong and change the 30amp breaker. But still happens. Any input would greatly appreciated

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Hello John;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I think you may be jumping the gun here by changing the power cord and breaker.

What is going to trip you breaker are to many appliances on the same breaker, or your receptacle does not have a ground.

You may have a bad control power board. I have gone on service calls where the unit is delivered one day and I am there the next to replace the power board.

Posted on Dec 08, 2014

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  • John Dec 08, 2014

    It's a single 10/3 220volt line only for my dryer.the 10/3 line is two hots a neutral and ground. I know everything is wired right as I still have my old dryer, so I took the 4 prong cord from the new dryer and installed it in the old one. Pluged it in no trip and dryer works. I'm thinking that there is short in the dryer from moving or the thermal fuse I think its called got knocked loose. I really don't know and hoping I figure it out soon. So wife doesn't kill me. We bought the set used and it worked when I picked up.

  • John Dec 08, 2014

    Hi Peter,
    I meant to ask you yesterday where is the power board located, and could that have gotten messed up in the process of moving it?

  • John Dec 09, 2014

    I found some other threads that say if the heating element is bad or the line attached to it is broke it well trip the braker right way because the contdinuity is broken. Going to check it with a muiltmeter and I'll let you guys know. Thanks

  • Peter Goodwin
    Peter Goodwin Dec 09, 2014

    John; I assume the new dryer is replacing an old dryer. Therefore, you are not overloading the breaker. A three prong power cord requires a 15 amp breaker and a four prong requires a 30 amp breaker Lets check the power going into the dryer. On the attached pictures are a three prong and a 4 prong power cord hookup. The power check is the same for both. With your meter set on Volts: 'L2' & 'N' = 110 V, 'L1' & 'N' = 110 V and 'L2' & 'L1' = 240 V. Assuming that you are getting these readings, your problem is not at your breaker nor power cord. Your unit is shutting down because your main control board is reading excessive power supply. So, either you have a short at the board or a bad board. It is not uncommon to receive a new unit with a bad board. Make sure before you touch the board that you ground yourself by rubbing your hands on bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a board. Access the power board, Push in on the connector and wires at the connectors. Try to restart the dryer. Go into thw following website. Type in HE4t. A list of dryers will appear - select your model number. The site is:

  • John Dec 09, 2014

    Peter, I do have a 30 amp breaker and the right power going to the outlet. I can not even check the power board, because as soon The dryer is pluged in it trips the breaker. I found another thread that says if the heating element is bad it well trip the breaker right away because the flow of electricity is stopped. I'm going to pick up a digital mulitmeter tonight and check to see if that's it. If not is there a way to check the power board with out the dryer having power, I would assume it's the same ad the heating element being checked with ohms instead of volts.


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  • Master
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Check the manual for how much it needs in regards to power. Is the 30amp enough? Mist likely not if its still tripping it. Is it possible that the wall socket isn't wired correctly? I would check that as well. Be sure you xturn the power off to everything and test it before sticking your screw driver into it.

Posted on Dec 08, 2014


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SOURCE: sde5401ayw keeps tripping breaker

ck the element if the breaker poping as soon as you use heat dead short eather element are wire going to it

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 400 series electric dryer

  1. Remove safety plate (usually attached only by 1 or 2 screws)
  2. Remove old cord and restraint with a hand or cordless drill.
  3. The restraint is the collar that fits tightly around the cord to hold it firm to the dryer.
  4. Connect the center wire of the 10/3 cord to the center silver terminal. Turn screw in firmly but not too tight.
  5. Now you have two wires remaining which are attached on either of the two terminals beside the silver terminal. It does not matter which wire goes on which terminal, as both wires are hot. Screw in firmly.
  6. From the outside of the dryer, you need to slide the tab end of one of the collar halves into the 10/3 cord wire hole. Do the same with the other half of the collar,easily draw the two halves together to tighten against the cord .
This is the 4 wire view 43fa7d5.jpg This is the 3 wire view

Please rate this a fixya

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer model 86683100. I need to change

Yeah, red and black go to the outside terminals, white in the center and green goes to the cabinet. What I do is hook up the red, white and black, then I place the green between the terminal block cover and the frame and screw it in tight.


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 1723 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Dryer Won't Power UP

IF you find that you have only a 3 wire feed for this dryer (and the reason for the 3 prong receptacle)...then you can not properly install a 4 prong dryer cord to it. You now have 2 choices....either rewire (assuming that it is a 3 wire supply) the entire run from the dryer breaker to the outlet location with 4 wire (typically a run of 8/3 with ground having a black, red, white and bare ground)and install a 4 prong dryer receptacle to match the configuration of the new dryers cord.....OR - you can remove the 4 wire cord and replace it with a 3 wire the ground strap - IF it is still in place.


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer 3prong cord installation diagram

if its a" flat cord" what-ever color jacketed 3 wire cord, the 2 outside wires are your 2 hot power wires they go to L1 and L2 on your dryer,the center is the N neutral wire and goes to the N terminal,usually the L1 and L2 are a gauge larger than the neutral: HINT: the center is normally neutral on both the cord and machines terminal board in the back of the dryer,there usually is a diagram on the dryer on how to install the input power at the place you hook up power

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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