Question about Campbell Hausfeld Air Tools & Compressors

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I own a Campbell Hausfeld model WL650800AJ compressor, the problem is that the compressor will not pressurize over about 85 psi..where would be the best place to start troubleshooting?..BTW, there is

I have checked for leaks, I can detect none...compressor holds pressure..when reaching about 85 psi the compressor continues to run...

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The usual problem with oil-less type compressor is the Teflon compression ring and cylinder will fail causing the problem that you describe. Easy to check. With cover removed, turn the pump until the piston is all the way up. With good light, check the condition of the cylinder near the top. If the cylinder looks scratched, air is leaking past cylinder and ring and pressure will not build up enough to reach cut-out. If cylinder looks smooth, then problem is head valve reeds or head gaskets. Indication of bad reeds or head gasket blown, is extremely hot head during fill cycle. Good luck

Posted on Dec 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My 5 year old compressor runs continuously and only reaches 40 psi


The pressure hose is not leaking on the connections between tank and cilinder the pressure unloader underside on the pressure switch with little blue or black little hose is closed (not blowing air out ) if the compressor is running? and is the check valve on the tank not dirty inside ?? if the pressure unloader or connections are definitely not leaking.
A little piece shard of the membrane plate(s) thats insite the head of the pressure cilinder is broken and is inserted in the black rubber of the check valve .
More possibilitys the pressure switch itself. the insite diaphragm membran has a problem replace always the whole pressure switch if its defekt.


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Compressor will only make 85 psi?


Allegedly there's an air leakage in the system.

Apr 24, 2015 | Air Tools & Compressors

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Motor "bogs down" at roughly 120 psi...almost stops


You suspect this unit as being a two stage because of the unusually high cut off pressure. It is a single stage and the motor really has a difficult task and is being pushed to the limits. to reach this pressure. We usually reset the pressure to lower setting ~~ say around 140. Your pump probably has a leaking intank check valve (brass fitting at tank) or leaking valve plate in pump. Simple tests : with pressure in tank unplug compressor from outlet and listens for air leak around pressure switch. As you unplug the running compressor from outlet you should hear air leaking from pressure switch for just a moment as air is let out of airline from pump to tank. If air leaks out till zero pressure then change the valve. If tank holds pressure then valve probably ok. Next test, with no air in tank and air filter removed, plug in compressor and feel intake port for strong suction. If the valve plate is bad, suction will decrease as pressure neers the 120 mark till the point of feeling that air is actually blowing out of intake. With good valve plate there will be strong suction untill unit reaches set pressure. If valve plate is bad also change the cylinder and piston ring. Good luck with your repair.

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I have a daul stage air compesser switch which is relitivly new been in for about 3 wks an now it blows air out of the shrader valve on the switch when it reaches pressure 110 psi and kicks off it will...


The problem that you describe is caused by air leaking past the tank check valve. Easy to test/ detect faulty valve. With pressure in tank, unplug unit from power supply (for safety) and remove airline from checkvalve at tank, (usually a brass valve). Listen or test for air leak. If leaking replace with a universal in-tank check valve available from www.grainger.com. Good luck, with your repair!

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1 Answer

Drops compressiom from 120-60 psi after 3 new pressure switches


When the pressure switch fails the comperssor will overpressure to the point of safety release at about 150 - 160 psi. It sounds as if your compressor is not producing enough pressure to cycle off at 120 and just keeps running. This happens when air is leaking from fittings or worn cylinder / reed valves. Don't worry, with some simple tests we will find the actual problem. I am assuming that your compressor is oilfree type. If there are leaks the compressor may not reach set pressure. I use soapy water on all connections and on the head/headvalve (remove plastic covers to get to all parts that may leak) while compressor is running. Make repairs as necessary. If still low pressure, while compressor is running and has reached max obtainable pressure (in your case 60 lbs), carefully place finger over intake port hole (remove filter). If the compressor is pumping normally but leaking there will be ample suction at intake and cause the compressor to speed-up when intake is obstructed with finger. If you feel plenty of suction and no visible (soapy water) leaks, then the problem is probably the cylinder /ring is not correctly seating /scratched and air is leaking past cylinder. Make sure that the cylinder /piston ring is properly aligned and that the lip on the vinyl ring is up toward the head. On oilfree compressors you can examine the cylinder by pushing the piston all the way up, then look for scratches neer top of cylinder. If scratched, pressure is leaking past cylinder, install cylinder kit. If you do not feel suction but rather air blowing out of the intake, (do this test when tank has reached 60 psi) then the problem is the headvalve plate/reed valves are leaking. The reeds must seal perfectly on their seats and not be bent or have obstruction. Replace as necessary. If reeds or headgasket is leaking the discharge air will be very hot. Only one other thing to check and that is the intank check valve. Easy to check. Run compressor till you have about 50+ lbs in the tank then unplug compressor. Carefully loosen the inlet hose at checkvalve and listen for air leaking out of tank. (check valve is the brass valve at tank) If leaking replace checkvalve. Use caution when removing head to try and save the gaskets. If you have oil type pump, and no air leaks (soapy water test) suspect reed valves/valve plate. Good luck on your repair and email if you have other question.

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1 Answer

Makita MAC2200 runs fine (with new Manifold Switch and repaired power cord) but there is an air leak under the new manifold switch that seems to be a feature of the switch. When set to automatic, the...


I have worked on many makita compressors and have run-across this problem on a few of them. Your compressor has a check valve that is supposed to hold tank pressure after the switch reaches set pressure. There is an unloader valve built into the pressure switch that releases the pressure in the discharge hose after the unit shuts off. The unloader allows the compressor to restart with-out any pressure in the discharge line. If the brass check valve is leaking pressure back into the system, air will leak out of the unloader valve. Follow the discharge line to the tank and you will see the brass check valve. To test valve for fault, run the compressor till it builds around 80 psi and unplug the unit from the wall outlet. Remove the 1/4" hose connector from the check valve and check for air leaking out of the valve. If it is leaking you can order form www.toolpartsdirect.com. or call the makita 1-800 number. The price is about the same. Good Luck on your repair.

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1 Answer

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