Question about Sebo Automatic X1 Bagged Upright Vacuum
I replaced the plug fuse and that also blew. I dismantled the cleaner and tried to find an obvious short circuit. There is no short from the plug to the switch, down to the terminal connection below the bag box, nor connection down to the side PCB terminals. The motor spins OK for a split second then the fuse blows. The motor looks OK too. Mechanically it is free to spin. I cannot see any distress to any of the insulation, nor any obvious heating signs below the two PCB's. What does this suggest as the cause? I am beginning to think myself that a component on one of two PCB's has failed. Do you have any clues?
You are correct!
The smaller PCB is a voltage regulator!
Is actually one of the condensers who shorted out but will be very hard for you to actually find and replace it !
You can find it the "old fashion way"!! by puling the fuse out and using a screwdriver (make sure it have an insulated handle!) short out the ends of the fuse holder for 1-3 seconds. The part who is shorted out will start to smoke out . You replace that part or preferably the entire board .
Posted on Dec 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the motor really is working, the problem is most likely to be that there's a blockage somewhere, and on this excellent vacuum cleaner there aren't too many places to look. You've probably already looked in the inspection flap on the underside. If not, that's the first place to look. Next is to separate the bag compartment from the base of the machine (press and hold the button at bottom front of bag compartment and just pull the two sections apart - if this hasn't been done for some time, a gentle levering with something like the plastic handle of a dish brush can help). Then look down the rearmost vacuum tube to check that it's clear, also make sure the little sieve on the other tube is clear. That's all for the base section. Now open the bag compartment, remove the bag and check that tube all the way through the hose.
Another possibility is air leakage, and it does happen on older machines that the plastic tube onto which the attachments fit becomes so worn that it no longer seals properly in the hole in the base (where it lives for normal floor vacuuming). You could also have split in the flexible hose, of course.
If none of this reveals a problem, the motor probably isn't as healthy as you think it is.
I hope this helps. Any questions, just post again and I'll see what more I can do. I value your feedback, so please rate this response.
Posted on May 04, 2009
OK, here goes... (there may be more detail here than you need, but it's a copy of a solution I wrote for someone else) NOTE - any use of the words LEFT and RIGHT assume that you are looking from the REAR of the machine.
NOTE ALSO - the machine has two toothed belts, it makes sense to change both while you're at it.
STEP 1. Separate the base from the bag compartment: press the button at bottom front centre of bag compartment and lift bag compartment upwards away from base. Sometimes this is quite stiff and four hands would be useful, you can lever it from behind with something relatively soft (the plastic handle of a dishwash brush works well) but take care to lift vertically upwards, not sideways or you risk bending a metal lever that's hard to get back into shape again. Rest assured that once you've pressed that button there is nothing holding the two parts together other than friction!
STEP 2. Turn the base upside-down and undo the FOUR DEEPLY-RECESSED SCREWS. All the surface-mounted screws are irrelevant to this job.
STEP 3. Turn the complete base right-way up, release the foot pedal and move the vacuum tubes out of vertical. The top cover will then lift off. You will see there are two belts - the pulley device between the motor and the brush roller is the sensor that measures the drag on the brushes and operates the automatic height adjuster to maintain constant drag. To the right of that double pulley is the electronic circuit board - note that it has a sensor that locates within the pulley device, be careful not to damage it.
STEP 4. At the left end of the motor cover, the drive cog is concealed by a small cover. Lift this cover out vertically, noting how it locates in the frame for when you come to put it back. Next, although not essential, it helps to remove the metal lever because if it falls out when you're not looking you may later be uncertain about how to locate the small coil spring. So slide that lever out towards the motor, noting how the spring locates.
STEP 5. Undo the two screws holding the circuit board (take care the washers don't slip away). Then undo the four screws holding the double pulley. Once that's free, you'll be able to change the belts.
Re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above process.
If you need more help, just ask. Please remember to rate this response.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
As sure as possible without actually seeing your machine, the carbon brushes on the motor are worn out. They are quite easy to replace (and not expensive). If you need help with doing the job, just post a reply here and I'll guide you as best I can. If you choose to have a professional do it for you, it should take no more than half an hour's labour.
I hope this has been helpful - please remember to score me! Good luck!
Posted on Feb 10, 2010
Testimonial: "Odin knows his stuff alright"
SOURCE: Sebo Automatic X1 Stopped.
Ok, thanks for the clarification. Even though the cord doesn't have any external damage, it's still very possible that it has gone bad. When a Sebo upright doesn't even start, this can mean one of several things. The parts that could go bad that would cause the machine not to turn on would be the cord (most common on a Sebo), the on/off switch, the PC board that's on top of the motor, or the actual motor. In the 7 years that I've been selling Sebo, I have only changed out one PC board, and I've never had to replace a single motor on a Sebo yet. I have had to replace several cords over the years, some showing external damage, others didn't show any damage.
The cord and the switch are going to be the easiest parts to test, and also happen to be the most common, so this is a great place to start.
Here's how you can test the switch and the cord on the vacuum cleaner. You'll need to have a simply Electrical tester that will test if current is going through the cord. Here's a link to a similar one that is very inexpensive that I used in this repair solution:
Step 1. Unwrap the electrical cord from the vacuum cleaner, and set the entire cord aside. Also remove the on-board wand that rests directly behind the bag housing. After the wand has been taken out, you should see on the left side of the vacuum where the handle goes into the body of the vacuum a little gray lever (my picture this lever is yellow as I only had a Sebo X5 on the floor, but the repair is identical). This is what the lever looks like:
Step 2. As you'll see if you look closely, the lever says "closed". Turn the lever towards the front of the vacuum so the lever reads "open".
Step 3. Once the lever is moved to open, lift straight up on the entire handle assembly to remove it from the vacuum cleaner.
Step 4. Once you have the handle assembly out of the vacuum cleaner, turn the handle upside down. You'll be able to see two small metal electrical terminals that connect into the base of the vacuum where the handle meets the vacuum cleaner. Make sure that both terminals are visible. I have seen a few Sebo's where the handle has come loose, and these terminals no longer make connection to the rest of the vacuum, causing the vacuum not to turn on. You can re-attach the handle into the vacuum cleaner, turn the lever on the side from open back to closed, and test the vacuum to see if it comes on.
Step 5. If the vacuum failed to come on after reinstalling the handle, take the handle back out of the vacuum. Put one of the wires from your electrical tester into each terminal in the bottom of the handle assembly. Make sure that the tester is actually making contact with the metal terminals. It should look like this:
Step 6. With each of the electrical tester wires pushed down into the handle and making sure they are making contact, plug the cord into a standard wall outlet. If current is present, the electrical tester will light up. If not light comes on, try flipping the on/off switch and see if this has an effect on if the tester lights up or not:
As you can see in the picture above, the cord and switch on this vacuum are good. If your tester lights up when you put it into the handle, then this means that your cord and switch are good. This means that either your motor, or PC board have gone bad.
If the tester signals that you don't have any power at the bottom of the handle, then this means that either your switch or your cord is bad.
If you will please let me know the results of the electrical test here on the bottom of the handle, I will then go into the next steps of the repair, and explain how to open up the machine and either replace the cord / switch, or if you did have power here, the pc board or the motor.
Please just use the clarification request form that you used last time. I hope this was helpful in diagnosing your machine. If this helped you, please be kind and rate the repair as helpful by clicking the thumbs up icons in the top of the repair.
I look forward to helping you fix your Sebo.
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
Testimonial: "Top lad, very helpful, GURU rating well deserved."
check for clogs, and also check the brush rollers' belt.
Really, i think you should take it to a vacuum shop and have it inspected for problems
Posted on Apr 29, 2010
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