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Oiler on mac3516 not suppling oil to bar - Garden

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Take the bar and chain off, clean any sawdust and grime from where the bar meets the body of the chainsaw. Make sure the oil tank is full but don't reassemble yet. Start the chainsaw without the bar and watch to see if any oil is coming out of the little hole or slot above the bar bolts. Check that it isn't clogged with muck. If this bleeds oil then check the bar which has an oil hole that matches up with the oiler, this could be clogged. Blow out with compressed air, also run a piece of hacksaw blade around the groove where the chain sits in the bar to clear debris and blow out. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 07, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: location of bar oiler adjustment screw on p4018wt

THIS WORKED FOR ME....I have a 2014. I've had that problem for quite awhile. I finally decided to try to fix it. I took the bar and chain off, removed all the crud in there. Then I took a small air compressor and blew out the entire area so it was pretty clean. I started the saw at this point and gunned it some. The oil became noticible within a few seconds where it comes out at, above the outer chain bar bolt. Once I found the hole, I then drained the oil tank, and then using the air pump, blew out the hole from the blade area to the tank, leaving the oil cap OFF. Upon refilling the oil tank with a lighter oil (10 wt), I restarted the saw, and the flow was really coming. After the oil; tank empties, I'll start using the regular bar-and-chain oil again, but it's pretty heavy, even though it says it is 30 wt.

JimBo

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: bar oiler does not work

Oil System Plugged.

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.

Displays all components and can be used as disassembly guide:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
As you requested

This is clutch removal (yours is similar):
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). HTH
Lou

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: I Have a poulan brand chain saw that the bar oiler

Oil System Plugged:

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

An example of a Poulan “PP220 Gas Chain Saw Type 5” IPL follows (may not be your saw):
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/PWE/PP220-Gas-Chain-Saw-Type-5/75.PP220-Gas-Chain-Saw-Type-5.1.59.1.html

The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly.

It has an outboard clutch use this and the IPL as a guide for removal. R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc

  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).

If your saw is not a Type 7 an IPL for all Poulan chainsaws can be found here:
Poulan.com
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
The dash number of your serial number is the type.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: husqvarna 345 bar oiler

Remove the bar and chain. Start the engine and observe the oil delivery port in the side of the engine case. At a fairly fast speed, the oil should ooze out of the port. If little or nothing, check the pump, lines, and in-tank filter. If ok, clean the bar drive-end holes of sawdust and dirt, especially the small passages that go from the large holes out to the chain groove. Clean the entire groove and the outer end sprocket. Reassemble and test the oiling by running the bar tip at speed in front of a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments. Hope this helps!

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: McCulloch EB428 chainsaw and the auto oiler won't work

Good on you for what attempted already. I looked at the print and it appears there is a worm gear (item 50) and a driven pump (item 61) behind the clutch. I suspect one of the 2 has failed. I know you have done most of this already But does it ooze with the bar off?
Oil System Plugged:

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

A link to the only IPL for a McCulloch EB428 follows:
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/EB428-Chainsaw/139.EB428-Chainsaw.1.59.1.html

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

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If you are or have used a low grade oil or used oil you may have worn the oiler out.
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You have my condolences.
Your saw is here, which one?
Chainsaws 32cc-35cc-38cc Anti-Vibe
I chose "22-600035-18" as an example , it follows (more detailed print - may not be your saw):
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/22-600035-18-Mac-3516-IPL-211318-01/139.22-600035-18-Mac-3516-IPL-211318-01.1.59.1.html

On this block of saws the oil pump is under the flywheel and there are many hoses. Please use the IPL to identify and locate oiler parts. I hope you find a burst hose. There are oil pump repair kits listed. Unless the pump has an obvious crack or hole I would not attempt to change it until I had exhausted all other possibilities.

This works for older MCs but MTD (this one) saws often deviate from the explanation. It will give you a little guidance if you try to locate a different IPL.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3558917-mcculloch_chain_saw_ipl_illustrated_par

The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly:
McCulloch IPLs (all)
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/McCulloch/139.59.html

I know it is not plugged but this may also be helpful.
Oil System Plugged:
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
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If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

These are very difficult to work on, most saw shops will not attempt a repair. I hope the chainsaw Gods smile on your undertaking. Good Luck. If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa HTH
Lou

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