Question about Russell Hobbs Kitchen Appliances - Others
Taken the glass panes off, don't know ohw to dismantle the toaster without breaking it. I am looking for a manual, and or leads to be able to open the case.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem which I managed to solve. The electro magnet that holds the toast lever down takes its power from a poor joint.
Remove the bottom of the toaster. You will see 2 wires encased in a heat proof sleeving going from the small circuit board. One of these wires dissapears up inside the heating element board about mid way along the board. You will now have to remove the metal covering by twisting 6 tabs. This is best done by taking off the black knobs you use to push the toast down - if you can - I couldnt, so I had to use long nosed pliers to bend the tabs and then with difficulty, remove the metal cover. YOu should now see the terminal that the wire is connected to. It is this connection that fails either between the wire and coonnector or connector and heatin element on the reverse side. I put a small bolt through the hole and used a nut to tighten the pressed fitting. I didnt use solder because I thought that it would just melt!
Anyway, my toaster worked after that. Russell Hobbs failed to give me any advice at all.
I hope that has helped.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Hi, most new toaster have a selenoid that hold down the handle while toasting then release when done so a spring bring the toast up. Possible problem with the selenoid, the electronic circuit that controls it or the plate that the selenoid holds. When you lower the handle you close the contacts of the AC line inside the toaster so if the handle is raised there is no power.
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
SOURCE: Russell Hobbs 10617 led bar
Heres my two bob... This is not a solution but may help someone.... I copied this from my post to another question dealing with the same toaster and problems... Also, I noticed that, in simo_tomic post, he refers to the chip in question as an 63AB1B , whereas mine the label was blank or ground off.
I havent found a source for these yet. Anyway.... onto original post...
I've tried to repair one of these toasters today.
It would intermittantly work, eg led lights would work, and the toaster would actually stay down.
Most of the time however, no lights, no toast staying down.
By removing the power cord and re plugging it in, occasionally the leds would light, then the toaster would work, until it stopped again.
FIRST A WARNING! YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF IF YOU PULL APART A TOASTER, THE VOLTAGES ARE DEADLY, IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING DONT OPEN IT! GET AN EXPERT OR GET A NEW TOASTER.
I pulled it apart, which was a pita as they used 8x non standard screws on the bottom.
On the pcb board where all the leds are, there is a large 18 pin chip, labelled MCU.
I believe that this is the culprit, as all diodes, resisters, caps seem OK. The thermister is ok.
By shorting two of the pins on the mcu, the leds would light up, and the toaster would actually keep the toast down, and therefore work.
However, the B**stards at Russell Hobbs have chosen not to label that chip, or have ground off the label, to make it harder for people like ourselves to repair.
Plus the fact that they use security type screws to keep us out.
This should be criminal, as it just encourages waste.
For futher info, I shorted pins 4 and 5 briefly, (ie looking at the toaster, the 4th and fifth pins on the top/far side of the pcb board, counting from the right hand side).
When I short these pins the toaster leds light and it works, not a permanent fix however.
Anyone know a suitable replacement for the MCU in this unit?
Posted on Jun 16, 2010
SOURCE: What is the part number
The ICU is a 16C56-02 microprocessor. However, I don't think you can just swap chips - it has to be programmed first, so unless you have an eprom and know the correct code....
If all of the lights work, and the toaster works, but the lever doesn't stay down (seems to be the common issue), I would try resoldering the transistor legs on the circuit board. The transistor is used to switch the magnetic solenoid that controls the lever. Mine had a cold solder joint, and when I resoldered, it worked fine. Wouldn't be surprised if they put out a whole bunch of boards with the same issue. Good luck.
Posted on Sep 04, 2010
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