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It *may* not be a problem with the water heater itself necessarily. When you say "keep adjusting the water temperature when you're taking a shower" I presume you're talking about turning the shower hot/cold knob(s) and not the temp thermostat on the water heater itself.
If so, when it starts to run colder, turn the knob all the way to full hot. Is the water then very hot? If so, the water heater is working fine & doing its job, and the problem is likely to be in the shower faucet mixing valve itself. Sometimes a faulty one will expand the inner seals/cartridge as hot water flows thru it, and starts to (wrongly) restrict the hot water flow, thus causing the constant need to "turn the dial up a notch".
The smell is from bacteria. The high temperature kills the bacteria. Some regions require water heater temp to be set at 135 because of bacteria.
A test to determine if only the water heater is causing problem: Turn off water to water heater. Smell water coming out of cold tap. Turn on water to heater, smell water from hot tap. If only hot tap smells, then water heater is suspect.
Another way to handle the problem long-term, is to reconfigure cold water pipes so you can regularly pour in 2 bottles of hydrogen peroxide during your flushing procedure. Pour in the hydrogen peroxide and let it work for a while. And then flush tank as you have been doing.
theoretically possible-----a mouse can get in, but most exhaust fan bearings are permanently sealed and are expected to run perfect for their designed life, without any need for lubrication---if a mouse got in, i can only assume that it was chewed up (or it's **** /urine) and was pulled into the motor/bearing shaft and caused some slow in revolutions due to animal parts grinding in the smooth bearings ---it could happen--it depends on how the bearings are sealed around the exhaust motor shaft....orrr, the mouse was killed by the spinning exhaust fan blade, and then "pasted" to the fan blades(ironically called a squirrel cage) and this caused extra weight and an unbalanced exhaust fan which would rapidly cause wear and burnout of bearings due to tremendous speed of exhaust fan---i have seen many a dead rodent inside "squirrel cages" (furnace and water heater exhaust fans and their housings)...in fact i chose to even scrape some of them out for refurbishment!
replace the thermostats, be very careful!!!! thats 220volts for elec water heaters, 220volts kills you if you touch it wrong,.....it is one thermostat but it's best to match them, so you'll need both,...not expensive. good luck, cracklin joe
How big is your bathtub? Is your water heater set on the hottest setting? What is the temperature of the hot water at the tap?
Keep in mind that hot water can cause severe burns. Children and those with diminished mental capacity can be seriously harmed by hot water.
The "40 Gallon" rating on the water heater is usually the amount of hot water the unit can produce in one hour. So the tank, and the amount of immediately available hot water, might be smaller than 40 gallons.
My bathtub is 2 feet wide by 1 foot deep and 4 feet long. This is 8
cubic feet or almost 60 gallons. So a 40 gallons of water at 120 degrees, mixed
with 20 gallons of cold water (60 degrees), fills the tub with 100 degree
water. My January cold water is 42 degrees, so it will take 40 gallons at 129 degrees to fill the tub. If the tub is cold to start it will take even hotter water.
So the water heater might be just fine.
Possible solutions: 1. turn the temperature up on your water heater- or the temperature control could be malfunctioning and not getting the water hot enough. 2. insulate your hot water pipes so that the water loses less heat on the way to the tub. 3. bigger water heater. 4. smaller bathtub, or less full bathtub.
it sounds more like the gas valve, you can taje the numbers off of it call or e-mail the compant and buy a new one,,, the thermal coupling keeps the piliot lit but i don't get it RECONDITIONED, I have been doing plumbing for 34 years now and to get a water heater thats reconditioned it would probobly be cheaper to buy a new water heater with this kind of problem good luck
You have two choices. First make sure you are dealing with the drain valve and not the temperature and pressure relief valve. Then you can either cap the drain valve with a garden hose cap or you can drain the water heater and replace the drain valve - if you chose replace make sure you get a water heater drain valve (3/4" MPT).