Question about Panasonic VIERA TC-P50ST50 50-Inch 1080p Full HD 3D Plasma TV
Turning it on and also plugging it out and plugging it back in and holding the power button for 5min
I would recommend getting The power supply replaced. It may have been a surge in voltage that ruined it. Depending on If you want a Genuine or Replacement part you are looking at around $76.00 - to $187.00 for a power supply.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 02, 2015
Contact any service technician. Its main power supply regulator board [inside] is faulty. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.
Merry X'Mas & Happy New Year; Melvin.
Posted on Dec 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check or have a repair tech check connectors AP1 and AP2. Vibration rattles the power supply board (a crappy design, as the board is almost "floating") and causes the wires in the connectors to break, and may make intermittent contact. Heat may also cause intemittent contact. A very common flaw.
Posted on May 06, 2008
The number of flashes is an error code. Count the number of flash. It looks like one of the boards in your set is failing intermittently. Panasonic codes for a guide as a starting point. Exact board STILL has to be verified;
One Blink: One blink of the power LED indicates a problem in the inverter circuit located on the LCD panel. The inverter board is not to be repaired in the field. Therefore a replacement is required.
Three Blinks: Three blinks of the power LED indicates an over-current or over-voltage condition in one of the DC supplies of the AP board. The AP board is repairable. Therefore the use of an ohmmeter and peak-hold-voltmeter is required to determine the cause of the shutdown. An over-voltage condition is definitely a defect of the AP board. An over-current condition may be due to a short circuit located in the AP board, A board, or the LCD panel.
Five, Seven, or Eight Blinks: The A board is responsible for five, seven or eight blinks of the power LED. The MAIN +3.3V, MAIN +5V, and MAIN +9V sources are all produced on the A board. The detection input pins of the MPU, IC1100, monitor for their presence.
Four or Six Blinks: The AP board is responsible for four or six blinks of the power LED. The DTV9V, and SUB_5V sources are produced on the AP board. The MPU IC1100 monitors for their presence when the unit is connected to AC Power. A short or open circuit on the A board may also be responsible for their absence.
Nine Blinks: Nine blinks of the power LED is due a short circuit in the audio output circuit (s) of the unit. The audio output circuit is located on the A board. Confirm the status of the speakers. If defective, perform a replacement. If ok, replace the A board.
Ten Blinks: Ten blinks of the power LED indicates a malfunction of IC4200, the frame converter. This IC resides on the A board. Therefore ten blinks of the power LED requires the replacement of the A board.
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
Power LED on front panel blinks several times, there is a delay, then repeats. After fiddling and fuming (mostly fuming) I found that changing the input signal source allowed the TV to be turned on. When I changed the input signal source back everything was ok.
In other words...
My TV is connected to my PC's video card via an HDMI connector. My card has 2 HDMI connectors. I moved the connector (the part that comes from my computer) from one HDMI out to the other. The screen powered up. When I changed the connector back to the original HDMI out I got my display back.
So yeah, try changing your input signal source. If you're using cable try switching to your Xbox/PS3/whatever, or vice versa. If you only have one possible signal source then I have no clue.
It's almost like the TV doesn't get any signal from the current cable then goes into sleep mode until it gets another signal. My problem had to do with me changing a bunch of sleep/timeout/screensaver settings on my TV/comp.
Hope this helps someone.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
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