I bought this unit a little over a year ago, so it is out of warranty and of course, I did not buy the extended warranty. It is for emergency backup off the generator, so it gets very little use. The control panel stopped working, first just the power button with intermittent on other functions, then everything. You can feel the contacts click, etc...but no joy. Odd thing is the unit is fully functional with the remote, all functions, heat and cooling. I live in rural VA and we have stink bugs which like to move into this unit every autumn. Is it possible they are up in between the key pad and the controller? Anyone have similar problem and fix??? Appreciate help in advance.
Testimonial: "Thanks, I have been looking at the detail of the display board which is directly behind the keypad. It appears that the sensor for the remote is independent of the contacts for the buttons. Do you have any experience with these or know if it is fairly easy to change out? I plan to pull the unit and try and clean the keypad if it is stink bugs, but the next step would be the display unit behind which then connects to the power unit. Since it is fully functional with the remote, that is still working. Appreciate your response and advice in advance."
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hello, Most all new heaters of this class have integrated controls that are part of the unit itself that are highly sensitive to power surge's and shorts. If the outlet it is plugged into is live and working the most likely a bad control board. These units almost always come with a minimum 2 year warranty most of the time more and seeing as you bought it recently i can help you find the proper information for retrieving the warranty if i know what retailer it came from IE: walmart, Amazon.com, buy.com, eBay, ETC.
I have a cabin in a area that has many power outages and surges due to old utilities and i use either a GFIC outlet or a single outlet surge protector (after a few problems of the similar type.
if you need anymore information or have any questions please let me know.
She will have to take it to a repair shop and have the touchpad replaced. This is going to cost her about $200, since the warranty has expired a few days ago. Unless of course she had got extra warranty, in that case it will be free.
I am currently experiencing this exact same problem with my 47LG50. Since the original thread was posted more than three months ago, I imagine the original poster has had his/her issue resolved, but I can still relay what LG told me to try when I called them. Did it work for me? No. I have to call The Geek Squad with Best Buy (as the TV is no longer under manufacturer's warranty, but thankfully, we bought the extended warranty with BB), but it could work for some, according to the representative I spoke with.
Try taking the batteries out of the remote, and see if this resolves the issue alone. If not, try unplugging the TV entirely and holding the power button down (it's just under the power light, carefully hidden, and shaped like a smile) for at least 40 seconds. After that, plug the TV back in and power it up to see if it has resolved the issue with the flashing menus. Even if it seems to have done, you might want to leave it on and keep an eye on the screen for a while. I had mine abate for a little bit, but then it went right back to flashing menus. The issue of it powering on by itself will be pretty easy to notice if it is still doing it.
I hope this helps someone, although it didn't work for me. =)
when incandescent light bulbs burn out they often draw huge amounts of current . thats the bright flash you see .. as the filiment breaks it can start an arc .. the arc vaporizes the filiment material which becomes a conductive plasma.. that, for all practical perposes, short circuits the lamp for a short time ..currents can go so high that they damage the "triac" (like a transistor) in the solid state controller (the electrical brick inside your fan) ... often the triac fails shorted ... so it stays on all the time just as yours is doing ... the triac is usually soldered to a printed circuit board inside the fans electronic control box .... sometimes they are easy to change and are inexpensive ... but often they are sealed inside with potting compound ... that makes them unrepairable by anyone not skilled in the art ....they expect you to buy a new control unit .. or sometimes you can send in your control unit for repair ... you have to call the manufacturer to find out what they want you to do ... by the way .you cant use the new spirial lamps in most of these controllers... there is no hazzard in using your fan/light the way it is . of course you wont have remote control over the lamp until the controller is repaired or replaced ... light bulbs above 40 watts have a built in fuse in their base.. that is supposed to minimize this problem .. but the triac can blow before the fuse opens .... light bulbs 40 watts and below are not required to have the fuse so present a little greater risk to solid state controllers .....
the problem you are having can be fixed with an adjutment that has to be done on the power supply. you will need a thec to do this adjustment. as for the remote you can get them here. http://www.newtvremotes.com/Mfrs/Samsung/SamsungTV/BN5900429F.htm
as for the extended warranty if it is still under manufacturers warranty you should be able to get it from the place you purchased it from( if they offer it) or the manufacturer.