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Re: My Maytag A9700 is leaking from the bottom of the...
If the boot seal was properly seated onto the outer tub lip, then you should focus on the water seal (#39 in the graphic - it should have come with the mounting stem kit) as the source of the leak. Extra care must be used when installing this over the agitator drive shaft - some recommend adding a lubricant (Maytag center seal grease works well) to the shaft before sliding the mounting stem (and water seal) down onto the agitator shaft. Also, check the two sealing surfaces where the top of the boot seal (#40) meets the bottom of the mounting stem (#30). Look for cracks, chips or any bits of debris. Anything that keeps those two surfaces from meeting perfectly will cause a leak. These repairs should go fairly smoothly, but leaking water seals and chipped boot seals can cause problems.
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The FAV6800A and FAV9800A only have access thru the front panel and washer top once released fromt the base......no rear or side access. See Pick of Outer Tub removed for Tub Seal and bearing replacement.
Google ""16022808.pdf"" to find the Service Manual.
Page 33 will show ou how to release the top cover and page 41 for front cover removal.
If you have wash water leaking down on the Clutch Pulley I feel you have a Tub Seal leak. The issues could be related to the drain hose/drain pump or cracked outer tub.
I don't troubleshoot on this forum to difficult to carry on thread. Google ""Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW"" or ""FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement"". Two DIY forums I frequent that I feel are true DIY forums.
cysloane You have a Tub Seal leak for sure.Did your Clutch Pulley use the upper bearing ring?If you don’t have any Outer Tub bearing noise you may get around replacing the Outer Tub Bearings.
Take a look at these links and see if they will help.Getting the Spinner Assembly removed without breaking one off requires care.Soak in Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.Even after doing that I broke one off.I had the bolt hole drilled out and Stainless Steel Helicoil inserted in. Here is the process for a Series 10 machine I did a tub seal replacement on.If you follow my post I’m a DIY’er with basic mech. skill sets.I’m a Electronic Technician by training and and learned craft skills.I feel you can do this if you felt OK with my Clutch Maintenance/Replacement post. I would replace both the Tub seal and the Tranny O ring seal. I used an air impact tool to remove the Spinner Bolts and the 1.75” Spinner Nut.You might be able to get away from using the Spinner Nut removal tool if you lock the Spinner Assembly as shown on page 47 in the SM. See this post for links on Tub Seal and Outer Tub bearing replacement. Good luck and I feel you can do this.I’m no expert but will try to help you……..Rich
The part number for the mounting stem and seal kit is 6-2095720 it cost about 85 bucks retail. You will also need to buy a special maytag spanner wrench to remove the inner tub. Its NOT an easy job the inner and outer tubs and hoses all need to be removed. The seal kit comes with no instructions. If you had a service company do the job it would be probably around 250 maybe more. We charge 104.95 labor for the job. Good luck _MJ_
This is a not a job for the back yard mechanic. There are many things that need to be done carefully. There are 3 letters missing from your model number also... However the procedure is pretty much the same for all models.
NOTE you will need a special tool to remove the stem seal. Unless you have the special tool in hand don't even bother starting the job. Tell any appliance part center you need the tool for removing an Old style Maytag tub nut and stem seal.
1. Remove the front panel
2. Remove the cabinet top / lid by removing the 2 screws in the top front corner of the cabinet. and rotate the top up 90 deg. Be careful of the lid that will swing freely.
3. Disconnect the pump inlet hose from the bottom of the tub.
4. Disconnect the water injector hose from the tub cover.
5. Remove the tub cover
6. Locate the only hex head screw in the side of the agitator and remove it.
7. Lift out the agitator
8. Using the special tool you should have in hand by now.... Remove the wash tub nut and stainless steel washer under the tub nut.
9. NOTE the distance of the inner tub from the outer tub and then lift out the wash tub
10. Next is the stem seal. You first have to remove the allen head lock screw in one of the 4 faces of the tub nut. Then again using that same special tool remove the upper part of stem seal. Be careful when lifting it as you can actually damage the grease seal in the very top of the tub seal upper portion. Once the metal upper part of the tub stem seal assy is removed... there another NOTE of caution...
11. The actual tub seal has a carbon face on the top of it and if you crack the carbon seal it your machine will leak all of the time there is water in the unit.
grab the tub seal as the very base of the seal and gently rotate and lift it off the inner tub sealing surface.
12. Install the new stem seal.... by again gripping it on the bottom only and gently rotate and push it down into place until it seats level.
Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly but make sure you INSTALL the allen lock screw into the stem seal nut face. If you don't the stem seal will come loose and your unit will leak again. Final note is during re-assembly make sure the wash tub is centered.... rotate the tub once you tighten the tub nut and make sure it is not to elliptical if you don't get it right... the machine will gyrate with use in the spin cycle.
There are multiple reasons why your washer would leak during the spin cycle. The wash tub seal could leaking, The tub bearing could be leaking, The carbon seal on the top of the tub boot could be worn. The water injector tube where it connects to the top of the tub could be torn from age. Even the tub to pump hose could have a hole in it. These are the most likely causes. There is one more item being the stem seal could be shot but this would cause water to leak all of the time.
It sounds like you may have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearing .....ain't that just peachy.....good job Maytag design team.
If you are the original owner I would press Maytag hard to replace the Outer Tub based on the Outer tub Bearing failure.Their warranty states third thru tenth year Drive Motor, Outer Tub and Sealed Transmission.I’m sure you will need to have a certified Maytag repair service tech certify the failure and fix action required. Why should an Outer Tub bearing replacement cost you $430. Another poor design issue of this machine.
You'll need to replace the transmission seal. For this repair job you’ll
require special tools like T20 Screwdriver and other similar tools. You can
disassemble the machine by following the steps mentioned below--
1. Remove the front panel (screws on each side)
2 Remove the two 3/8 screws pointing upward. This will allow you to lift the
3. Remove the agitator.
4. Remove the spanner nut (requires tool and its left hand thread).
5. Remove the top off the outer tub (some snap off and some have a clamp all
the way around the tub)
6. Remove inter tub.
7. Remove the set screws in the mounting stem (the treaded stem that the
spanner nut was on).
8. Now with the same tool remove the mounting stem.
9. The outer tub is mounted to three legs. Remove the bolts that hold it on and
remove the hoses from the tub. Once it is done remove the outer tub.
10. Remove the rubber boot.
11. Prop the tub up on something so that you won’t damage the stem that the
drain hose connects to and step on the seal to push it out.
12. Turn the tub back over and install the new one the same way (may want to
lube it with a small amount of soap).
13. On the transmission there is a metal sleeve where the tub sits, remove it.
Now reinstall the new sleeve.
14. Reassemble the washer replacing the seal, boot, tub bearing, mounting stem
and spanner nut.
This may help you--
Also check the Drain pump and drain hoses inside the washer if they are firmly
connected and not leaking. You can see this diagram for more details--
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for
Maytag has the bearings pressed into the outer tub which means if they fix it they have to replace the whole outer tub for $500 alone. Maytag does not have the bearings themselves listed as a part number! I know of folks who were quoted $1,000 to fix the bearings! Who in their right mind will have their Neptune fixed for $1,000?
There is a new solution to this problem. See www.neptunebearing.com where you can get a bearing and seal kit along with the Tony Tool rental. The Tony Tool is slick tool used to pull the bearings out and reinstall them. There is a video on the site so you can see it in action. It takes an hour or so to change the bearings and you don't even have to remove the outer tub! Folks had to use pipes and hammers to get the bearings out before the Tony Tool was born.
you also need to replace the stem and seal kit and the bearing kit you also have to have a spanner toll to remove the stem and install the new one aint gonna be a cheap repair but you do have a good maytag washer that is nolonger produced