Question about Water Water Heaters
I try reset just like manual book sayes ,but problem coming back
Over here in the colonies, we don't know from Boiler Mates, and I'm sure you have already discovered the same documents I foumd. The word "fiddly" came up in the second link and while we don't use that term often on this side of the pond, it definitely sounds pejorative.
Unfortunately, as we say over here, you may be "in for it".
Other than a reset, have you tried a "hard" reset by pulling the power? How about control/alt/delete ???
OK, now I'm getting silly.
All the best
Posted on Dec 11, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: boiler overheating
the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).
Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.
This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.
The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
Most likely either a bad controller (which is the little display you use to reset) or the temperature probe which is accessible on the underside of your tank. Sensor is a 2 wire probe in center of underside and easily replaced.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
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