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OK, you must remove the front axle assembly to access the axle flange and then the seal, follow the instructions at the link but once the axle is out remove the axle flange from the front diff and replace the axle seal, use a seal driver and lube the new seal with lithium grease (white grease). You will need an air impact to get the flange nut off, replace it with a new one (do not reuse) and do not over tighten it. Cinch it down and then go about 1/8 more of full nut rotation to preload carrier bearing setting then spike in place. Ford F150 Front Axle Replacement Part 1
there is a special tool as there are no timing marks, in front of the cam gears are plates with two holes in each (for location of tool) there is also a tool that protrudes into the crankshaft position sensor hole.. if you dont have access to the specialty tools , than i would engrave marks on the gears and covers to align to original positions.
You must rebuild the entire rear end, all the bearings, you can't just installed the new bearing on the ring gear carrier. This bearing replacement job requires many specialized skills and many special tools to complete the adjustments required so the rear differential won't be noisy in operation.
First, why do you want to replace? Normally this is recommended every 10 years or 80k miles (US). It's not really possible to look at a belt and determine if it's worn or not.
The procedure requires removal of the front radiator and carrier (part the headlight attach to) as well as special tool to lock the cam wheels in place. It is not a process for the average mechanic because of the potential for engine damage if done incorrectly. Cost at most independent shops (not dealer) is between 800 and 1200 dollars.
My 01 A8L has 55k miles, but it probably the original belt so I will have replaced soon.
Gear cases are easy to take apart with the proper tools.I suggest buying a Clymer Manuel. it has a list of special tools. TEAR DOWN PROCEDURE(1) remove the propeller shaft bearing carrier assembly by removing the carrier ring. takes a special tool. (2)the bearing carrier depending on the running condition will become stuck in the gear case. there is a special tool for removing the bearing carrier out of the gear case.(3) the bearing carrier houses the reverse gear make sure the reverse gear was removed when the bearing carrier came out. (4)look inside of gear case you will see the propshaft assembly, drive shaft with pinion gear assembly, and the forward gear.(5) on the drive shaft pinion gear you will see a nut. there is a close clearance between that nut and the clutch dog on the propshaft assembly. it takes a special wrench to get this nut off plus a spline tool to hold the drive shaft as your turning the nut off. you can make them both but be careful.(6) there are two different styles for this model of stern drive a "R" and a "MR" the "MR" drive has a retaining nut for bearing preload for the drive shaft. need special tool to remove it. the "R" drive has a spring loaded pin on the top of the driveshaft to control bearing preload. no special tool need to remove shaft after pinion nut removal.(7) once the driveshaft is removed the propshaft comes out by lining up the shift shaft just right. (8) turn the shift shaft until the shift crank is at a right angle to the propeller shaft. you can't see the shift crank because it is behind the forward gear you have to go by experience or feel. once you have the shift crank lined up properly push the propshaft to the left side of the gear case housing then pull out at that angle. GOAL propshaft "clutch dog actuating shaft" in basic terms, is like a hook that grabs onto the shift crank. you unhook it by moving the propshaft tip to the side, causing the back of the propshaft inside the housing, to unhook and move away the the shift crank. it sounds complicated but once you do it you see how easy it is.(9) once you have the propshaft and the forward gear out you can leave the shift shaft inside.there is no need to remove it. have fun
billbohman: Unless GMC has had some change I am not aware of and that has not been published in service manuals for the repair of these units, the procedures are the same as any seal replacement and require no special tool. There are some universal seal installation tools which I would venture the majority of techs don't have because they substitute other tools in their place most of the time. Most techs will have a special tool designed from removing seals. However, the seal can be removed without it.
Just use a little common sense when removing a seal. Don't damage the casing.
The following procedure is "generic" for replacing the lock cylinder. There are a couple of specialized tools you will need and saftey precautions concerning the air bag system.
Take a look and let me know if you wish to tackle the job.
To remove the ignition lock: CAUTION
You must remove the steering wheel when replacing the ignition lock. On vehicles with a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system, you must temporarily disable the SIR system and remove the inflator module when removing the steering wheel. Leaving the SIR system on could result in deployment of the air bag and possible personal injury.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, and remove the steering wheel.
Remove the bumper and the carrier snapring retainer from the steering shaft.
Use a lock plate compressor screw tool to install the lock plate compressor screw in the upper steering shaft. To keep the shaft from telescoping, tighten it to 40 inch lbs.
Using the lock plate compressor tool, install on the upper steering shaft, tighten it to depress the shaft lock. Remove the shaft lock retainer, the compressor tool and the steering shaft lock.
Remove the turn signal canceling cam assembly. Put the turn signal switch in the "N" position and remove the upper bearing spring.
Position the turn signal switch so the mounting screws can be removed through the holes in the switch and remove the turn signal lever.
Remove the turn signal switch-to-steering column screws and lift the turn signal switch. Remove the wire protector and disconnect the turn signal switch connector.
Use a terminal remover tool to disconnect the buzzer switch wires from the turn signal switch connector. Remove the buzzer switch assembly with needle-nose pliers.
Place the lock cylinder in the ACC position, then remove the lock retaining screw and the lock cylinder set.
To install the new cylinder lock, reverse the removal procedures.
Tighten the lock retaining screw to 22 inch lbs., the turn signal switch screws to 59 inch lbs. and turn the turn signal lever screw to 53 inch lbs.
As part of the final replacement procedures, check the operation of the switches and the steering column.
You'll need a few special tools. You will need some common metric wrenches and sockets, 10-19mm will be more than enough, and you'll need an 8mm Allen bit as well, to remove the caliper mounting bolts (these anchor the caliper to the caliper carrier). If you're doing rear brakes, you'll also need the proper tools to screw the calipers back in. If you're doing front brakes, you can use a C-clamp to compress the pistons back in. Other than that, and maybe a big beefy screwdriver to separate the caliper from the carrier, there's nothing to it.