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Switch operates but operator doesn't light up. wire continuity from sw track to operator ck OK-one of the bulbs closest to the connector block on the operator glows faintly- Diodes ckd OK.

Switch operates but operator doesn't light up. Wire continuity from sw track to operator cks OK-one of the bulbs closest to the connector block on the operator glows faintly- Diodes ckd OK.

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  • Richard Baker Jan 24, 2015

    I found a broken wire in switch track assembly.



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1987 ford ranger turn signals keep blowing fuses. have changed flasher fuse and switch on column. just keeps blowing?

first thing i guess to understand what is going on here ,is a little back to basics on how turnsignals work , first item you have is power fuse then it's off to flasher module than it goes to the turnsignal switch on colum ,of course anywhere on it way to there the power could got to ground and cause the fuse to trip, now the power depending on Left or right selection , is directed to lights on both front and back of truck,thankfully rangers don't have em on the side) now any place in this pathway the wire could go to ground and blow the fuse, now to troubleshoot and narrow down the area that fault is located , (1) replace fuse with correct size and ck for proper fit in fusebox and start and operate truck for a few minutes DO not use turnsignals, ck fuse is it still good if so go to step 2 if not stop and ck wire conditions in steering colum and switch(2) start truck and try right hand turn signal only verify lights working ,Ok yes/no if not replace fuse and try left side same way, Ok yes /no if right or left side only blows fuses take ALL bulbS OUT of lights and try again , if fuse still blows then look for wire fault on that side of truck if fuse is still good then look carefull at light bulb sockets for rust and powered corrosion (ill bet an 87 has some ) you may need to replace bulb sockets , they do sell em in autoparts stores .

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1 Answer

Front turn signal works but the running light doesn't

Hi Anonymous, always check fuses and bulbs first, you could have a faulty turn signal module or a bad turn signal button/switch, remove it from the switch housing and check for continuity, check your wiring and connections from the turn signal switch to the turn signal module with a testlite. Make sure all wires are not worn or pinched and connector pins are not corroded, broken, or loose. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below: Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Sep 03, 2012 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Driver's window

The wiring diagrams for your 2003 GMC Sierra power window circuits are copyrighted material and cannot be posted here. However, I can describe the driver's power window circuit to you.

Battery voltage is provided to the driver's window (master) switch via the ORANGE wire at PIn #2 on the switch connector which comes from the 25 Amp Left Window Circuit breaker located in the fuse block on the left side of the dash.

There is a logic module located inside of the master switch which controls the "Auto Down" feature for the driver's window. When the switch is operated in either the "UP" or "DOWN" position, power and ground is supplied to the window lift motor via the BROWN wire (Pin #1, Connector 2) and the DARK BLUE wire (Pin #3, Connector 2) Thease wires will switch polarity dependin on whether the switch is commanding UP or DOWN.

The schematics show that the ground circuit for the driver's window motor is supplied internally by the driver's window switch module. It is most likely grounded inside the door panel itself - the schematics do not specify. To check for ground, you can test continuity to ground on BOTH the BROWN and the BLUE wires by back-probing them with the switch electrical connector plugged in and the window control switch in the NEUTRAL position. They should both have ground.

When the switch is operated, one will remain ground while the other switches to power.

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1 Answer

Brake lights don't work on my 2010 FXDWG and my right turn signal doesn't work either. There is a key icon on my speedo that is on in red.

Hi Ed, always check fuses and bulbs first for broken filaments. Then check the connection at the rear fender wiring harness, inspect for corroded, broken or loose pins. Use a dab of dielectric grease and repair as necessary. Check your brake relay if you have one , check your brake light switches for continuity, some models rear turn signals were single filament bulbs only, no running light. If all else fails get out your test light and start tracking the power wire from the harness connection. You could have a faulty turn signal module or a bad turn signal button/switch, remove it from the switch housing and check for continuity, check your wiring and connections from the turn signal switch to the turn signal module with a testlite. Make sure all wires are not worn or pinched and connector pins are not corroded, broken, or loose. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. You may also need an alarm reset. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Set Change Override Transport Harley Security Alarm PIN Code No Key Fob...

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Oct 07, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna Wide...

1 Answer

I cannot operate windows on 2002 impala. you can run a seperate 12 volt source to the motor and it will operate window. also all the windows don't work. there is 12 volts at the switches but they will...

Sounds like you are missing a good ground.

Here's something to try. There should be a single black wire on the connector for the master window switch. this is the ground for all the windows. check for power by back probing that wire with the connector plugged into the switch and a window switch in either the up or down position. If you see 12 volts than the ground is bad. Use a jumper wire from that wire to a known good ground. If the windows start working than you will need to trace that wire to find the break. The most common would be in the harness in between the door and the body of the car.

If you don't see 12 volts with a switch in the up or down than remove both connectors from the switch. test continuity between the pin that the black wire goes to an any pin that the 8 wire connector plugs into. There should be continuity. If there isn't that the master switch is bad.

If you have any question let me know.

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Sep 03, 2011 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Smart drive 708 7.5kg toploader. All lights and power on but wont start when 'start/pause' hit.


OK - to repair - unplug the power source - remove 2 screws back top corners, lift the display unit & lay on the lid - on the right side got all the wires going down the machine - locate the first plug has 4 wires , wh - Y- Bl & Bl - BK/BL are thinner and both goes with the rest of the wires & the other 2 you will note goes under the controller - cut & strip the BK/BL so the copper is exposed - use a proper elect connector twist together these exposed wires & join inside the connector.

Assemble & enjoy.

CAUTION - this in effect will overide the lids effectiveness - whilst the machine is operational the opening of the lid will not pause/stop the machine in its tracks like how it should be. Be wary the user safety has been compromised - otherwise try to obtain a replacement if still available for these particular series...


Jun 25, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

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I have a GULF CAR THAT I AM TRYING TO WIRE FOR LIGHTS head lights brake lights @ tail lights

Ok that's a pretty easy one.. What you need to do is make a wiring harness first.. you require TWO wires for each light... ONE of these wires will be a "Common" IF you have a METAL chassis, then you may use this as the "Other" Wire, the negative, or Earth. All wires are going back to the Battery... Or a connection block nearby... wire all lights, etc, from the POSITIVE of the battery, to the Switch, from the switch to the light.. and then back via the "Common" to NEGATIVE, terminal or Earth.
Simply do each as an individual circuit... use good quality 10 - 20 Amp suitable stranded wire, RED & BLACK, RED for Positive, BLACK, for Negative. use Bulb holders, 20 Amp switches.
Have a FUSE or a Circuit Breaker in EACH circuit wire.. OK, so we wire From Plus on the battery, (Usually we have a multi-terminal insulated connector mounted where we terminate each positive wire, to feed out to each circuit) it then goes from the Positive, to the Fuse/CB, from, the other side of the Fuse/CB, on to the say, a Switch, Terminal, & then, from the other Terminal of the Normally OPEN switch, to one side of the Bulb (Holder) the "Other" side of the Bulb, goes back to the negative or Earth. ALL Earths go together, and are Common. ONLY the Positive or RED is LIVE.
We always switch the Live wire. Brake lights are usually wired in series. Remember one can obtain Dual Filament bulbs, for Indicator and brake lights.
Simply duplicate this for each circuit, and then we tape them all together in a "Harness" and route the harness where-ever is suitable for it to go.
Usually we run a heavy wire from the Plus battery terminal, to our multiway connector for our Positive "Outlet". to connect to the individual circuits.
Draw out a circuit FIRST for EACH light and any switch, and then follow the diagram.

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1 Answer

My brake light will go will on/off when lever and pedal are depressed. And the tail light isn't working...and hasent for awhile. If I pull one or step on the other it will come in...if I tap the light...

Yamaha motorcycles of this vintage are notorious for having flaky electrical connections. Take a look at your fuse box. Do you still have the original fuse block, or has someone gradually (or all at once) replaced the stock fuse blocks with in-line fuses? I have owned a number of '78-82 Yamahas, and I've had to change out the fuse block on every single one of them.

While that might have some bearing on your tail light issue (have you checked with a voltmeter to make sure the bulb socket is getting power? Sometimes, there's enough corrosion in the socket to prevent good contact with the bulb), the more likely culprit is corrosion in one or more of the bullet connectors piecing your electrical harness together. In terms of troubleshooting, I would actually start with the ground side, as a poor ground gives exactly this type of flaky "sometimes on, sometimes off" performance.

Start with your brake bulb, rather than your tail light, because you know that power is at least sometimes getting to that socket. Find the black negative wire coming out of the socket. Even before you do any kind of wiring trace, clip a temporary ground wire onto that terminal of the bulb socket and a frame or engine bolt--or even right back to the negative terminal of the battery. There's not a lot of amperage being passed through this bulb, so you can use a thin, Radio Shack level jumper cable or simply make your own with two alligator clips and a length of insulated wire. At any rate, once you've grounded the bulb socket, try the brake switches again to see if the bulb now lights up reliably. There's a pretty good chance that it will. If that's the case, trace the black ground wire to each of its friction fit connections. Pull each connection apart, clean the connectors, and reseat everything. Continue until you've gotten all the way to the official ground. Or, if you get tired to this exercise, you can splice a fresh ground into the wire. As the wiring bundle has a common ground, this may actually help a number of components, not just your brake light or tail light.

If adding a good ground doesn't fix your intermittent bulb problem, you'll need to trace the positive side of things. Here, based on my experience with XS650s, I would suggest that you start tracing at the fuse block. I don't know what kind of metal Yamaha used, but those fuse blocks get brittle and don't always keep a good connection with the fuse or with the wires feeding into the fuse block, even if they look good in a visual inspection. Using the continuity function (or the volt meter function, with the negative cable clipped to ground), start tracing the wiring to each connection point, again pulling apart each connecting block to clean the connecting pins. Because Yamaha wraps all its wires into bundles, this will be frustrating work--it'll be easiest if you just start with testing each connecting block and checking from continuity from there. That way, you don't have to unwind any of the wrapping unless or until you find a bad link. Yamaha wires rarely shed their insulation; problems are almost always caused by tarnish at the connectors.

Good luck finding the bad connecting block, bad bulb socket, or bad ground that's keeping your lights from operating properly. The XS650 is a bulletproof bike that's great fun to ride. The electrical gremlins are a relatively minor problem in the grand scheme of things.

May 16, 2011 | 1980 Yamaha XS 650 G

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool duet sport with an error code F21. It is not a blocked drian pipe, and is making a noise with the pump.

check drain trap for restriction
If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves turn off.
This error code is only shown in Diagnostic test.
Possible Causes/Procedure
- Ask the customer how much detergent they are using and if it is HE
detergent. May have too much suds present causing this condition.
- Turn washer ON to verify pump operates; run the drain cycle.
- Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
- Unplug washer or disconnect power
- Make sure that wire harness connections at the Drain Pump, Pressure SW,
& CCU (DP2, PR6 cavities) connectors are not broken or with wires detached,
and that connector internal pins are visible.
- Check continuity from the Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors.
- Check continuity from the Pressure SW & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors.
- If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced.
- Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. See page 8.
- Check the resistance of the motor pump. See page 8.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Run the drain cycle.
- If the failure continues, unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
- Disassemble the drain pump from the washer.
- Check that the impeller is not detached from the motor shaft. If the
impeller is detached from the shaft, is broken or has any scratches,
the drain pump must be replaced.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Verify the unit operation by performing the Diagnostic Test cycle.
See page 5.
- After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect
power and wait for 15 seconds.

Feb 15, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet Sport HT WFW8400TE Washer

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