Most problems with this gun centers around the firing valve part # Bao119 . This part must not get any oil because it will swell and begin to fail as you describe. That being said, the trigger valve does need some type of lubrication or it will become sticky causing problem that you describe. If you have been using oil in the gun, most likely inner trigger parts will be lubricated and failure is firing valve. If no oil has ever enter the gun, suspect the trigger valve. It will need to be removed from the gun and lubed with white grease or silicone lube. Good luck
SOURCE: senco finish nailer, drive pin
Senco nailers are very reliable however could suffer from several issues that would cause your problem. Here are a few things to check that may solve your problem. Bent driver, worn parts, broken check valve. Main problem with all finish nailers is bent driver blade. Easy to check, remove and examine. The driver should travel length of cylinder without jaming. Driver oring/plastic ring should fit snug into cylinder. Remove cylinder and check the oring neer the bottom of the cylinder. This is a check valve. There are small holes that should be cleaned. If oring is loose or broken just use any oring that fits snuggly. Next, check that lower bumper is not chipped or cracked and that washer under bumper is not too worn or missing. Replace parts as necessary. (www.toolpartsdirect.com)
Enjoy
SOURCE: Senco SFN1 wont work
I have worked on many sfn1 with the problem that you describe. Here are a few things to check. Driver/piston too tight or too loose in cylinder or bent. It should be relatively easy to move the driver piston up/down the cylinder. Usually it should hold it's own weight and not drop down the cylinder. There is a washer that should be at the bottom of the gun under the bumper (washer part# bf0070). This washer must not be worn to the point that too much air will leak past or missing. Finally there is an oring that controlls return of piston (part # lb0077). Pull out the cylinder and find it located on the outer part of the cylinder close to bottom. Clean the port holes under the oring and make sure that the oring fits snuggly. Do not use oil in this gun. Oil will swell the rubber parts. I use silicone lube available form Lowes in the plumbing department. The grease is used to lube faucet orings. Good luck with your repair and email if you have questions.
SOURCE: porter cable brad nailer only fires brad on second trigger pull
The dent in the wood is not caused by the air. It's caused by the set that drives the brad. Are you oiling it consistenly? Are the brads the right manufacturer for your porter cable brad nailer? From the information you give it appears that the brads are not advancing correctly or that the air pressure is not sufficient to dislodge the brad from the brad strip on the first strike - it takes an additional strike to break it free. The standard for adding oil is to add ten drops of air tool oil for every hour of operation. That seems like a lot, but the correct amount of oil is a sure way to prevent most air tool problems.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. I was not oiling it at that rate. Is there anything I can do to fix the issue now that I didn't prevent it?"
SOURCE: I just bought the Bostitch
Check the position of the switches and selectors. It sounds like you are in between settings. Also, put in a few drops of oil, and try your gun out on scrap wood, so oil doesn't come out on your good work.
--W/D--
SOURCE: I have a sfn1 senco nailer the drive pin does not retract after firing
take off cap of tool remove wagon wheel. remove cylinder and driver on outside of cylinder there are two orings a large one and a small one / it might a band instead of an oring if tool is older. there should be bunch of tiny holes your oring/band is worn or missing its called a return band
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