Question about Hoshizaki Freezers
Would you be more specific, please? If you are considering replacing an evaporator plate on the machine, I'd advise against it unless you are in the trade,
Posted on Jan 04, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would not change the pump. If it runs for 3-5 minutes and stops, it has to be a control. The control board runs the freeze cycle for the first 5 minutes. This prevent "Short Cycling" of the freeze cycle. The board looks at the float after the first 5 minutes for the proper water level but should not effect the pump. If the pump does not run in the wash mode, check out the "Power/ Wash" switch. I would start there before I go spending hundreds on pump motor or control board. You may be able to get by on a $20 fix! Do this and get back to me. We will get it going.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Check to be sure the check valve is not leaking by. This will cause reduced capacity as they are controlled from water level. Remove, clean, and re-install the check valve and check its operation.
Posted on May 21, 2010
make a few quick checks. If there are water filters on the system, be sure they are not restricked. Could be clogged. Next, check the bin stat. It usually is mounted in the ice bin. If it breaks or goes bad, it shuts down the machine. Start there and let me know if I can be of any further help.
Posted on Jun 26, 2010
SOURCE: ice up on the coil
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
SOURCE: we have a hoshizaki ice
The main problem with Hoshizaki machines is if you are in a hard water area, if so do you have a good quality water filter, it may need changing. A quick way to check for calcium ot lime deposits in the machine is
1. Turn it off, run you clean hand around the area near the evaporator, are there any rough or flaky deposits there, if so you may need a chemical descale, contact a reputable fridge guy to do this for you.
2. The swinging arm motor may be faulty or possibly the ice sensor which controls the harvest cycle. If this is faulty sometimes the tray goes back up before the ice has slid off.
3. If the machine is situated in a cellar or other cool (less than 10 deg C / 50 deg f) this can sometimes affect the harvest cycle again to set this you need a tradesman.
4. Does the water flow properly over the lower part of the mould plate during a harvest cycle, the pipe can become blocked or dislodged.
Hope this is helpful
Posted on Apr 14, 2011
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