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Re: Screw on plate at back of oven refuse to tighten....
And of the following solutions could ruin the connection, but might also fix problem.
Can you drill and tap threads for larger hole? And then use larger diameter screw?
Try screwing in a fine thread bolt so the thread doesn't match and then that might tighten.
Tap a fine thread into same hole and then leave tap shavings there when screwing in fine thread bolt... or screw in regular bolt after tapping fine thread.
Try sticking awl into hole and bending down to mis-shape the hole slightly so thread might take hold.
High heat from the connection prevents other methods such as adding glue or other material.
Loose screw and wire can cause arcing and high heat leading to fire... keep all wire connections covered so fire cannot get oxygen and spread
Fire safety on following link: http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html
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Not familiar with that brand so I'll go from what I know. Here in the US on 240 volt appliances, the white is usually neutral which would leave yellow and blue as the 2 hot lines. In 240 volt that would mean 120 volts on each one of those colors. The wire you call earth is a secondary ground similar to neutral and can attach to just about any screw on the metal body of the appliance. Most will have a green color screw close to the terminal block that is where that wire usually gets attached to.
You can put the live and neutral on either of the outer terminals terminal. It really doesn't matter. It's the same principle as not needing to screw in a bayonet light bulb a certain way round. As long as the circuit is complete, it will work correctly.
To put it in the simplest terms, attach the earth wire to the shorter centre terminal with the live and neutral wires on the two outer terminals and job's a good 'un.
Hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please let me know.
If it is the main oven element, then undo the screws that secure the cover at the rear of the oven, remove cover, and you will see the round element there.
Undo screw securing element, and pull forward in to oven compartment.
Detach the wires, and fit new element.
Hope this helps you.
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You need to check the heating element for continuity and the thermistor for continuity. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to check.The element should not be any reading over 24 ohms for a 220-250V supply and not over 12 ohms for a 110Vac supply. A good tip is to take digital photos of the job before starting on removing and testing wiring etc so that you can refer back to it if you have to replace any items or forget which wires attach to any particular terminal etc. To test and replace the element:
Turning off the mains power to the oven.
Remove the lower back panel. Fan assisted ovens will have a coiled 2 or 3 turn element around the outside of the fan.
Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element if one is fitted.
Check the element resistance reading on the main oven heating element and not the grill element.
The thermistor or fusible link is located on top of the oven cavity if fitted and has two wires attached to it - most likely to be red and black or both white wires.
Remove the earthing wire to the main oven heating element screw terminal.
Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your oven. Do this from inside the oven cavity itself.
Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it.
Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post.
Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required.
Reconnect the power cables to the main oven heating element.
Reconnect the power cables to the grill element if one is fitted.
Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly.
Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s).
Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the oven, and if appropriate the grill, functions correctly.
Yes, there is one for both units together. It's in the back of the oven, and you will need to remove the oven from the cabinet to get to the fuse. Turn off the power to the oven first - the fuse is connected to a live wire L2. To get to the mounting screws you'll need to remove left&right trim pieces: open the oven door and you'll see the screws on the trim pieces, they are near the door base. Remove screws and remove trim pieces. The mounting screws are in front of you. The oven is HEAVY, and you'll need to secure it somehow while working on it. The fuse is on the back wall, and looks like a disc, attached with 2 screws, has 2 terminals with 2 or 3 wires coming to them. One of the wires will be red in color. If there is no continuity between the fuse contacts - replace. Good luck.
You may need to get a wire connector to install on the ground (earth) wire, so it can be connected to the terminal connection point on the new oven.
If one wasn't provided with the oven, some do this as a service, just look at the ground terminal or in the bag with the instructions, etc. for one. If not, you should be able to purchase one, you'll just need to get one that fits the wire, so knowing the gauge of the wire (either Awg or Kcmil size) will make this easier to get the right connector size.
I recommend that a ring terminal be used, so in the event that the fastening screw might loosen, the ring terminal will not fall off the contact point, whereas a fork terminal could and can come off much more easily.
Not having more detailed info about the brand and where you're located, makes further possible solutions difficult to provide, since Fixya doesn't require requestors to provide any info on what country they're in, etc.
Nonetheless, I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Your terminal block has been by-passed . Hook your black cord wire to the black screw on the terminal block. Hook your white wire to the white screw on the terminal block. Hook the bare ground to the exterior ground screw. The 2 wires that are wire-nutted together will have to hook to the red wire on the cord.(they originally went to the third connection on the terminal). You will probably have to cut and strip the red cord wire and attach it with the 2 wire-nutted connections.
It may be something as simple as a crossed or frayed wire. This does not necessarily mean major repairs. Since it is electric, UNPLUG the oven from the wall. Then, take the burner rings out and lift the stove top. You should be able to lift it from the front edge, since it is hinged at the back. Check the wires under the burner. If these wires are in good shape and the connections are solid, move the stove out from the wall. Remove the back sheet metal panel completely. Once again, check the wires running the entire length. Make sure all wires running from the knob console to the rest of the oven are not frayed or missing the insulation coating and that the connections are complete and not loose. If you find frays, some electrical tape should fix it just fine. Loose connections can usually be crimped with a pliers, or if it's a loose electrical connector type connection with a screw, you can remove the connector head and wrap bare wire around the screw, then tighten it down to secure.
If you find nothing wrong when you open it and inspect the wires, then it is possible it needs major repairs. If you are getting a burning smell from ANY electrical appliance, please leave it unplugged until you get it fixed. Nobody likes a house fire in the middle of the night.
1. The screws seem to need a small hex screwdriver, but I managed to get my normal electrical screwdriver to fit - they are not too tight.
2. The wiring is straightforward - there is an earth position with no wire from the oven attached, marked with the standard earth sign, that should connect to your yellow/green wire. The other two connectors have either a blue (neutral) or a brown (live) wire attached to them - they should connect to your black (neutral in old money) or red (live) wires