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First use a battery charger to charge the battery, instead of a jump start. Second, with a complete dead battery you may want to pull the connection for the horn under the hood till the battery is completely charged.
try this. discconect battery neg cable, unplug horn relay under hood, lock front door with key, reconnect battery, unlock front door with key, start car, reinstall horn relay,,, good luck. this works for acura so no promisies on yours.
First, Have your Battery tested. The Alarm systems in Ford made Products are very sensitive to Voltage. There are 3 systems in the car which interrupt power, the Alarm system (horn honking) and the Battery saver and finally the starter interlock system.
The Alarm system will do several things to disable the car from starting. It will reduce the voltage to the starter to prevent the engine from turning over. Some will even kill the ignition system so that if the starter is jumped, the car still won't start.
The Battery saver will disconnect any system to prevent discharge below a minimum threshold. Unfortunately, when the Alternator is working extra hard to charge a really bad battery: it will disconnect the charging circuit because it reads the Draw going to the Alternator to produce the power as a parasitic drain. Even at 70mph I have seen the charging disconnected and the vehicle coast to a stop when the electric runs out.
The last system worth mentioning is the Starter interlock. Under the dash and at the top of the Brake pedal lever is a switch. When you press the brake pedal, the switch allows the starter to crank provided the shifter is not in D or R. Drivers feet routinely hit this switch and either move it or break it. When it breaks it can short and drain the battery.
As you mentioned a Random problem, the Brake switch can shake to create a random problem if it is loose or broken. Your rear brake lights can be affected.
With the horn honking, at least part of your problem is the Alarm system. You can have a bad ignition switch too, which reads the keychip to disable the alarm. Your keychip may be bad and setting off the Alarm.
I had a new Lincoln myself which set off the Alarm randomly. I actually slept inside the car one night so I could turn off the alarm in the Apartment complex parking lot. Did'nt know if it would start again if the battery was disconnected and then reconnected. The Battery was shorted with less than 1000 miles on the car. It was a factory defective battery less than 3 months old.
But your car has many years and miles on it so it was worth mentioning the wear items. I hope my solution is helpful.
Rapid draining is usually caused by a shorted diode in the alternator. Disconnect it and see if the drain stops. The theft system would cause a much smaller drain and take overnight. But here's the way to track down a battery drain.
this sounds like a low battery problem ... the horn and lights do not take much energy to turn on, but starting the engine takes a lot of power. Try jumping the Jeep with another car, or a battery jump pack (available at any auto-parts store). If the engine kicks over and starts, then leave your Jeep running in park for about 15 minutes. After 15 minutes of running, turn the Jeep off and then try to start it again with no jump -- if it starts, you had a low battery, but the issue is probably solved (running the engine recharges the battery). If, after you have had the car running for 15 minutes and turn it off, it does not start on its own, you probably need a new battery (and you should have your electrical system checked as you might have a bad alternator that is not charging your battery). Sears Auto Canter has a great piece of equipment that can test your battery, and your entire electrical system (including the alternator) in just a few minutes. I recommend that you take your Jeep to a Sears Auto Center and have it checked, whether or not the jump worked because their system can make sure that there is not a slow drain on the battery (due to a loose connection or something like that) which would cause you to have the same problem again.
The fob is infamous for its battery life. It gets drained so quickly that there happens to be a little later when the fob is very close to the door lock, ignition & unnecessary triggers the alarm due to low reception as the battery of the fobs discharges very fast, depending on the model, which has a certain virtual sheild(STARTRECK type) which is triggered by the fobs strength of the signal(radi waves).
Why not try a new set of batteries for your fob?? .................................sodeep
Put a volt meter across the battery terminals while the vehicle is running. You should read no less than 12.5 volts at idle with no accessories running and no less than that with accessories all on. Normal volts should be around 13.5. Aside from slight fluctuations, the voltage reading should not steadily drop, regardless of how long it is running. I doubt if you have a system drain if it's shutting down while driving...the alternator would compensate for that. Some charging systems incorporate the voltage regulator into the computer. If the alternator checked good by itself but the tests I recommended show otherwise, likely your problem is with the computer. If the engine does not need to be jump started after it shuts off, you may be looking entirely in the wrong place...but you didn't mention that part!!