Good morning,perhaps I should elaberate a bit further upon my already sytated problem.
At this stage I have used a 25 pin printer jack as a replacement for the 25 pin jack also used by the Alesis DM6 ELECTRONIC DRUM KIT.As stated before there are 9 events or pads wich are played by hitting the pads to reproduce the sounds of normal drum kit.Each pad or event transmits certain electrical data or information to the main processor via pairs of wires which connect the pads to the processor.This connection is made via a 25 pin connector.The connector is split into two halves.Facing the connector the top counts left to right 1- 13 tags, the bottom counts Left to right 14 - 25.Each tag has a certain color wire, the top has primary colors eg Red Brown,green,blue,Black etc.The bottom accomodates it's pair mates eg Red White,Brown White etc.I have tried connecting individual pads in different color combinations to the processor without any complete success, that is to say each time some of the pads give the correct voice but show the incorrect pad or device.In short I am not using the correct color wire sequence and this is simply because it is not mentioned anywhere at the product URL or related sites.I hope this explaines my problem a little bit better.
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I'm unsure what you mean by "bit". Are you perhaps lookng for the retaining nut that screws onto the jack fron the outside to hold it onto the body? If so, they are available in a pack of various sizes from Radio Shack.
Sounds like the output cable from the 802 is not correctly pinned to your input on the computer. Fred is on the right track but you may need to take it a bit further.
It may also be helpful to use a Pro USB audio interface such as the Digigram UAX220v2 (line level version).
If you wish to use the computer's on board sound card consider an IHF/Pro interface that converts balanced audio to unbalanced , and the proper cables. Two 3-wire balanced 1/4-inch from the 802 to the left and right inputs of the interface (XLR Male), then RCA (Red and White) to a 1/8-inch TRS Plug cable onto the the computers audio input.
Henry Engineering's Matchbox HD comes to mind.
Switch may be dirty. Clean it with some contact cleaner. Also check to make sure you have the right length plug tip and conductor count for the jack. There are 5 lengths in use.
It is a solid state amp so it is possible there is a faulty gain stage in the preamp/driver section. If the amp is an old one more than 18 years old (give or take) it is possible there is an electrolytic capacitor in the gain stage of the "High/Low", switch. It would be in the vicinity of the wiring from the High Low switch where they solder to the main board. It like is one of a few low noise Op Amps, 4558, 387, TL08X/TL07X/TL06X LF353 series. In the 8 pin IC the pinouts are the same, the characteristics are similar. The most basic feedback configuration is just one resistor connecting an input to the output.
If you noticed that the pedal works on and off depending on the jack plug positioning, it is because the jack is already broken loose from the solder on the board. If the pedal that you are using can normally open as most or normally closed like Roland types, you can still replace the loosed jack. Unit has to be opened and correct jack replaced.
This is likely a problem with the FX in the unit or the power to it. Does the FX display act correctly? Check that the headphone source "Main Mix" is the ONLY button down for the headphones. If not, make it so. If the clicking is still there, try the headphones in the aux send jacks... see if EITHER left or right can hear the clicking. Back in the phone jack, scan across the SOLO channel buttons down one at a time. Is there clicking? If not, the problem involves the mixing buss or further down the line. Make sure the SOLO buttons at the FX Aux sends are up.
What effect does the MODE button have in SOLO and in PFL? Is the SOLO LED off? Is the number in the FX window SOLIDLY on and not flashing?
The headphones socket is on the preamp stage - it works so the problem must be after the pre-amp.
Do you get any sound at all from the speakers (hiss or perhaps a click) when you turn it on?
If yes it is an amplifier problem.
Here are some possible causes
A wire has come off the loudspeaker - easy to fix
Speaker protection fuse has blown - small glass fuse mounted on main amplifier chassis - replace with correct rated and type of fuse (note some of these are 'slow' blow type - important that you get the right one)
faulty component in the main amplifier stage - requires attention from qualified repairer
Loudspeaker burnt out - this can be tested by connecting another speaker across the terminals of the built in speaker.
The headphone jack socket automatically disconnects the loudspeaker when phones are plugged in - it could be that the contact in the headphone jack socket is bent and not re-making contact when the headphones are unplugged.
In refering to the schematic i find that the MOST probable cause would be a bad switch contact on the jack the pedal plugs into. There is a normally closed contact that passes the select signal within the unit to the control circuit. If the contact vibrates open, then the unit will switch. These jacks are a pile of.... prone to failure if you use them very much. With the pedal plugged in the switch is no longer in the circuit and control is solidly by the pedal.
If you remove the amp from the cabinet you can probably bend the spring contact to temporarily fix the problem, however, use that jack a bit and the problem will come back. You could cobble a good quality Switchcraft jack with switch as a replacement and add pigtail wires to the circuitry for a little better reliability.
Check all the capacitors one at a time for leakage.You might also have a transistor in the preamp stage which is starting to go bad. Whatever you do though don't use the speaker output jacks of the organ as line outs into the input jack of the guitar amp. In a properly working organ you could destroy the output transformer and the input stage of your amp because most speaker outs are A.C. voltage to drive the speakers not low level D.C. which is what your amp is used to. Let me know how you make out.
It sounds like a failure in the preamp stages, but fortunately you can do a lot of troubleshooting externally.
Drive the "power amp input" jack with another source of audio that has some reasonable output... like a small CD player. If this works (no mind the level, just the quality, that will verify if the power amp is OK.
If the power amp is OK, the use the preamp out to another amplifier.
If it is OK, then the Power amp input jack switch MAY be bad, When nothing is plugged into these, the preamp is sent to the power amp by a switch on the power amp input jack.
If you do these tests, you can email me the results and I will give further tests to run.