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Hello, the Cabrio has the drain pump on the right rear. Pull the washer out from the wall about 2.5 feet or so. Place a towel over the top edge of the control panel and lean the washer back against the wall so it rests there. Lay on the floor and, using a flashlight or headlamp, carefully inspect the drain pump for cracks, the rubber pipes for leaks, and check to see if the motor in the middle has water trails that look like water was slung out when spinning. These models are notorious for leakage from the tub seal at the center. Water drains down into the bearings and motor. I've also seen where the body of the drain pump cracks and leaks. Also, check the metal spring clips. They are notorious for being too loose for holding the rubber elbows and pipes on the plastic nipples under the tub--I never use them to repair a washer--I ALWAYS use automobile hose clamps purchased at auto parts stores--way better and DEFINITELY more reliable. You'll need the 1.5" to 2.5" sizes.
The switch is located on the back of the pump. If you have access to the pump and you can see the tube coming out of the black box on top of the pump you might have a chance of changing it without pulling the tub, If you do not have access to the pump, one will have to be made or pull the tub for repairs. If the pump can be removed this might also make the repair go easier. The switch is available at most pool or spa stores. If you are uncertain about doing this repair call a Jacuzzi certified repair technician to do the job.
When you installed the new jet, did you install a new gasket on the wall fitting or use 100% RTF type silicone?
In order to seal a wall fitting that is cracked an leaking, the replacement must have either the gasket or silicone to seal the wall fitting against the wall of the tub or it will leak when filled with water.
U S Parts Center
You mean a tub surround? You have no box for the tub to sit in? What were planning on using to hide the sides of the tub? Most big tubs, whirlpools, jacuzzis, etc, sit in a frame work of two by fours and plywood, the ply top supports the tub and the tile, The ply walls or tile board walls are needed for the tile, access to the motor is necessary if you don't have a panel on the tub itself. The tub is set in a finished box, all the tile work done on the top, and set in a ***** of concrete for support. This is for tubs with no sides on them, some tubs have one side finished, and they go up against the walls, and get tiled over the lip. But they get set in mud too. But no walls, just a band against the wall for support. I have seen every tub in every house we have worked on for 25 years done this way, it works. Check it out. Hope this helps. And I hope this is what you are talking about.
Sorry, the tub will have to pulled out to find out what is leaking so it can be fixed. There is just no other way UNLESS you can open up the wall on the blind side of the tube. (but its probably and exterior wall...if the house is vinyl sided, it can be done. If brick, you'll have to pull the tub). If you just wanted to convert to a tub only, maybe Bathfitters has an insert solution...
It sounds like the motor needs to be lubricated or there is debris keeping the impeller from turning without the help of a littl force. I would have a professional that deals with whirlpool tubs come and lube the motor.
it is generally not allowed under the water regs to discharge waste water into anything other than a drain.I would suggest you install a discharge pump, typically the saniflow type which will allow you to run the waste across the room and discharge the waste into the vanity basin drainage.Should you choose to install this be aware of the waste pipe configurations shown by the instructions
you wiil need to check 2 things.First you will need to check the motor.Their should be a reset switch on the motor.also attached to the power buuton is ablack thin hose if this hose came off the switch or motor than the motor wont come on.Look around for an access door .If thier is acloset in an adjoining room you might find it thier.