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I have a triangle tube challenger boiler. D.W & radiant. It has a drop in temperature about 1.5 -3 min. after turning water on. In shower and in sinks. Was able to watch tank and feel water from laundry sink. The display temp in unit fluctuates from 120-98 deg. Even after 3min water gets hot again and temp display is changing. Temp will drop again at about 7-10min when in shower. I do mean cold...seeing the display temp fluctuate seems weird. Shouldn't it reach set temp and stay there?

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A lot depends on the size of the tank. And when it heats some systems only heat at night , this is ok if the system is large , on most heaters there is a thermostat on the side that can be used to set to a higher temp. the thermostat on your heater may be faulty.

Posted on Dec 04, 2014

  • Brandon Smith Dec 04, 2014

    This is a tankless water heater.

  • Stan Ford Dec 04, 2014

    The short answer is .increase the heated surface or decrease the water flow.

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SOURCE: fluctuating temperatures

Sounds like there is not enough flow in order to keep the burner in the heater firing continuously

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

SOURCE: Fluctuating water temp. It is hot when I start the shower,

Iam guessing your using it faster than it makes hot water. May need a larger unit or a second one,in the system

Posted on Apr 10, 2010

  • 120 Answers

SOURCE: I have had my Rinnai

The Rinnai will shut off it can't maintain the temperature you have set to within +/- 3 degs so I'd guess that might be the problem. The cause can be a few options. Check water flow first; any filters you have in tapware, main water flow etc. get cleaned. The Rinnai has a water line filter in the incoming supply, middle pipe under the heater just after the isolating valve. Gas supply could be the other option mainly being a possible intermittent fault in the gas regulator. Hard to check this one short of just changing it. Final option is some sort of electronic malfunction, pretty rare. I'd start with the water flow issue as you can do this yourself. Checking the gas will need a good technician with digital gas pressure guage to check incoming and working gas pressures; it might just need to be recalibrated. Just hasd a thought about the heat exchanger being scaled up if you are in an arera where water scale is a problem but this would normally take far less than 8 years to be a problem. Sorry can't be of more help; hard when it might be a few different causes.

Posted on Jun 06, 2011

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Why the hot water temperature couldn't reach the set temperature (130 degree) in Amtrol WHS80Z indirect water heater?


I have a couple of thoughts. You may have air in the boiler water circuit at the loop that feeds the tank. You'll have to find the vent in the loop to get it out. Second, the automatic valve that opens for hot water may not be opening fully. Have you felt both the boiler water lines that go in and out of the tank? If the water going in is hot and the line out is very cold you have very little boiler water going through the loop. Make sure the isolation valves on the loop are open. Is your boiler full of water? If the boiler loop lines are hot going in and coming out, the tank is full of rust or debris and no water can get to the fins on the internal tubing to pick up heat. If that's the case there is no repair and its time to get a new tank. Hope this helps good luck.

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Gas or electric?
Electric water heater ... then test for crossover, check for water leak, replace thermostats, test elements
Gas water heater ... test for crossover, check for water leak
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html


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I have a vaillant eco pro 28 combi boiler. no constant hot water unless tap is on really low.


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The trigger for this is a pressure switch, replacement of which is beyond DIY scope.
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It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

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Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
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Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

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