Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the grinding noise may be coming from either the pump or you have something caught between the drums.
the f-33 error is the pump drive system error. it indicates that you have lost communication between the CCU board and the pump. the CCU board is the main control board that you see in the front of your washer.
i would recommend that you call a technician to check it out, as you will have to do some checks that require technical knowledge.
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
Your Stainless Steel drum is supported inside of the washer tub by a spider assembly. The assemply, which is made of cast aluminum, has corroded (steel and aluminum and detegent don't mix) and the spider assembly has broken. The drum has likely wobbled enough to wear a hole through the tub. You need to replace the drum and spider assembly, and tub.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number you posted this question under is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If you would like to purchase a Repair Manual to assist you with all your repairs, repairclinic.com has one that you can order on line for about $20. The part number is 1170635. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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