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The slightly rounded point of a universal needle is sharp enough to pierce woven cotton fabrics, but not so sharp it will damage knits. It comes in sizes ranging from 60/8 to 120/19-but a reasonable starting point is the 80/12 size.Aug. 28, 2017
What type of material are you going to be sewing? Sew-Classic has 10 needle packages of the size 12 and size 14 needles for the Singer 306 for light (not fine) and medium weight material. (It's a 206x13 needle for the single needle. The twin needle is a 306x3.) See http://shop.sew-classic.com/206x13-Sewing-Machine-Needles_c46.htm .
Damaged needle is the most common cause of this, followed by a needle too small for the threader (see: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17206792 for a size comparison) or a needle not in the correct position for threading, or the threading getting knocked out of alignment.
Personally, and maybe because I've been sewing for 55 years now, but I find most needle threaders seem to be the first thing to break on modern home sewing machines. If you want to thread by hand, simply cut the end of the thread at an angle with a *sharp* pair of scissors. It should poke through the hole easily. Because needle size and thread size really go hand in hand in making good stitches, a thread that is too fat for the needle's eye a) won't go through the eye easily and b) will make your machine stitch like it's suddenly had all the tensions go wonky. (Thread diameter should be about half the width of the eye of the needle; ordinary sewing thread generally works from size 10/70 through 14/90 needles just fine, and occasionally to 16/100.)
Bobbin in backwards, needle in backwards, needle damaged, needle too small for the thickness of fabric or needle not the correct needle system for the machine are my first guesses. Try a new size 12/80 needle, flat of the needle to the back of the machine, completely up in the needle clamp as a first pass at the problem.
The needle is damaged, in backwards or not fully up in the machine, or the bobbin is misthreaded.
Try a new size 12/80 needle, flat back of the needle to the back of the machine, rethread top and bottom from scratch, and see if that makes a difference.
12 wt thread generally will not work well in the bobbin...
"Aurifil 12wt Thread
Aurifil 12 wt thread is ideal for hand quilting, big stitch hand quilting and machine quilting. 12 weight thread creates a more defined and often primitive look. It's great for designs that use a longer stitch length if using a machine. When machine quilting with 12 wt thread, use 40 wt in the bobbin, increase your stitch length, lower your tension, use Topstitch size 90 needles and stitch slowly."
The most common reason I see for bobbin thread not being picked up is that the needle is in backwards. Or the needle is a little bent (sometimes it's so little you can't see it, but the machine knows!). So start by trying a new needle (size 80/12 is what's used for test sewing on most machines). If that doesn't work, turn the needle 180 degrees and try again -- there is a definite front and back to a sewing machine needle.
Make certain that your bobbins are the exact ones recommended for your machine. Many look similiar, but if they are off even slightly in depth, they will not work. Also, make certain your bobbin in locked into position in it's case and the thread is coming from the bobbin in the correct direction. When holding my metal bobbin in my hand, the thread pulls counter clockwise before placing it into my front loading bobbin case. Each machine is different so check your manual.
It sounds to me like you have replaced the broken needle with one that is too long (wrong size).Check your manual for the proper needle size and look through your collection, or head down to the local sewing shop and pick up a new pack of proper sized needles. Now if the needle you replaced the broken one with is the same size, you most likely didn't loosen the set screw up enough and therefore didn't slide the needle up far enough before locking it in. Double check this.
I have had a similar problem with my overlocker and had to adjust the height of the needle by moving it lower.
because one needle was so fussy i use my overlocker with only one needle, which give a good enough stitch for what i'm doing
Hi. You use different size needles for different fabrics and fabric weights. Size 16 needles are used for heavy fabric, like canvas, duck, or blue jeans. Size 14 needles are still on the heavy/thick fabric size. Size 10 needles are for very light-weight fabrics and size 12 needles are for medium-weight fabrics. Also, you need to pay attention to the type of fabric--if sewing on knits, you need ballpoint needles. If sewing on woven fabrics, you need sharps or universals. Universals are supposed to be for knits, too....but ballpoint needles are SO much better!
Use the right size and type of needle for your fabric, don't sew over any pins (they can bend or even break the needle), and make sure you don't pull or push the fabric while you're sewing on it. Let the feed dogs do the work of moving the fabric--you just gently guide it.
Hope this helps!
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