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Bought MA-T530G-MH timer switch for bath exhaust,I installed it now the exhaust fan pulsates when fan is ON, when fan is off fan continues to stay ON but spins very slow

I've wired it with Hot (black) wire coming in and the Black wire from fan and ground wire to switch, I also reversed the Black wires and got the same results. Thanks inadvance for your help...

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The manual states that on-and-off blinking of load indicates the load is less than minimum.
Minimum load draw is .3 amps and 40 watts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Lutron-MA-T51-T53-timer-manual.pdf

Generally a bath fan is 1/6 Hp or 3 amps... exceeding the minimum.
Manual indicates that wiring error can also cause on-off blinking.
MA T530 replace single pole switch,,, and either wire from switch can connect to either brass screw on timer.
This timer will not replace 3-way switch.

Defective product is also possible/ call Lutron 800-523-9466 day or night

Gene



Water Heater Timers Save Money

Posted on Dec 04, 2014

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SOURCE: I'm trying to install a GE digital timer (model

the extra white wire from timer goes to the group of white wire ganged together in rear of box. you need to connect a jump wire to tha group and lead to timer. grey wire goes to black. red to red.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: I bought a Utilitech 7 day digital in wall timer,

HI .. if the switch has only a black and white wire attached, and there are no other wires in the wall box, then you cannot use this timer switch. You need to return it and get a timer that does not use a neutral connection. The wires you have are a switch leg from the light and there is a white wire but it is not a neutral.
If there are other wires in that wall box , tell me and we can chat more about how to remedy this .

Please Vote !!

Posted on May 25, 2010

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: Help with Woods 59018/59028 7 day digital timer

The usual connection for this type timer is the house black power to the timer black, the house white power to the timer white and the , the light black wire to the red timer wire.
If you only have two wires, one black and one white, at the switch location, then you cannot use this style timer , as it needs a neutral. You should return this timer and get one that does not require a neutral connection.

Please Vote !!

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

  • 2841 Answers

SOURCE: I have purchased a Utilitech

What you have a single pole light switch you are replacing with the timer. As you say you have 2 black wires. One black wire is the incoming power wire and the other black wire goes up to the light. On a normal single pole switch is makes no difference which of the screws you connect it to. Of course with the exception of the ground screw. Tie all the white wires back together that are in the wall box and shove them to the rear as they are not needed to make this connection. The correct connection is to connect one of the black existing black wires in the wall switch box to the black wire on the timer. Now connect the other black wire to the blue wire on the timer. The red wire is not used in a single pole connection and is only used in a 3 way switch connection, so just put a twist connector on it and shove it back in the box. To recap, connect black wire on timer to either black wire in box. Connect the other blue wire to the other black wire. Do not use the red wire. Hopefully you did not hurt the timer by connecting it incorrectly. If it does not work after setting the timer up according to the instructions you have ruined the timer by wiring it incorrectly. Hopefully no damage has been done.

Posted on Aug 14, 2010

SOURCE: I lost my Leviton 6230M 30 mins timer installation sheet.

Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
Timer blue wire connects to black wire going to fan
Timer white wire connects to white neutral (in absence of white neutral, connect Timer white wire to bare ground)
Timer green connects to bare ground wire

Posted on Sep 20, 2010

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Black wire, white wire, and tan wire coming from ceiling. New fan has blue, black, white wire and green wire on the bracket how does it hook up


1. Have on hand either wire connectors or electrical tape

2. Look at the wires coming from your ceiling fan. The black wire from the ceiling fan is the hot wire that runs the motor and turns the fan blades. The white wire is neutral and completes the fan circuit. The blue wire is the hot wire for the ceiling fan light fixture. The ceiling fan motor does not have a ground wire.

3. Find the short green wire or the green ground screw on your ceiling fan hanging bracket. Attach the bare copper wire from your electrical box to the short green wire by twisting and orange wire connector to the two wires. If you only have a green ground screw, wrap the bare copper wire around this screw and tighten the screw against the bracket to secure the wire.

4. Match the end of the white insulated wire from the ceiling fan to the end of the white wire from your electrical box. Twist a wire connector onto the two wires to complete the neutral circuit.

5. Connect the black insulated wire from the ceiling fan to the black insulated wire from the electrical box. If you do not have a separate toggle switch on the wall to operate the ceiling fan and light separately, grab the blue wire and place it with the black wire from the fan motor and the black insulated wire from the electrical box. Twist a wire connector to all three wires. If you have the additional toggle switch, connect the two black wires together with an orange wire connector, and then match the blue wire and the red wire together. Twist another orange wire connector on the red and blue wires

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Ceiling fan wiring diagrams


Most usually you will have four wires. One raw copper, one white. One blue and one black. The raw copper would mount to the casing (usually to a green screw) this will be what is called an earth ground. It will divert any stray voltage to the outside ground rod. The white wire is called a neutral ground wire. It goes to the white wire in your casing of the fan/light. This wire goes to your breaker box ground terminal. The blame wire will be your positive (hot) wire to your light section. Connect it to the black wire coming from the ceiling box. Do not put your wire nut and or tape on yet. Connect the blue wire to the black wire connection. The black wire that is in the ceiling box is the positive (hot) wire from your wall switch which comes from your breaker box. Occasionally you may find two switches on the wall, one for the light and the other for the fan. In this event you will have two sets of wires in the ceiling box. Use the black one on one of the black fan/light wire and the other black wire in the ceiling box connect it to the blue wire. If there is another white wire, connect it to the other white wire. Do the same with the raw copper wire. NEVER CONNECT A WHITE WIRE TO A BLACK WIRE. OR A RAW COPPER WIRE TO A BLACK WIRE. THIS WOULD CREATE A DIRECT SHORT AND ELECTROCUTION COULD OCCURE. Turn your power back on when you have completed your job and check each switch. If the switches are not in the location you prefer, turn you power back off and either reverse the location of the switches in the wall box or you can reverse the blue and black wires in the ceiling box.

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I have a 12/2 (black/white/ground) power source to the leviton 1755 switch. And, I have two (2) 12/2's going to a Broan 100hl (vent, light, heater). Please help wiring switch and Broan; on...


The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
want to mark it with a piece of tape, so you know it's the incoming hot. the ground off your hot will tie,
to the green screw on switch and continue and tie to your vent light which should also have a ground
the white coming off the hot is your neutral, it will go straight to your white or whites on your heater.
the black hot wire at your switch will go to each gold terminal on one side of the switch,there are two
ways you can do this, go to one side and just run a jumper, or put one wire on each gold screw and
tie in to your hot-black wire with a wire nut. now for the switch legs, you will need to run from your, switch
to your heater either another pair of 12/2s or a 12/3, each side of the switch that has one silver screw,
it's easier with a 12/3 normally a 12/3 will have a red,black,white,and ground.
top switch red to red on heater,black to black on light and the white blue on the vent,so from your switch
to the heater you would have to run a12/2 you would not use the black only the white and ground.
remember the white-neutral coming from the switch will be tied to all the whites at the vent,light,heater
except for the 10/3. the 10/3 is used stricktly for the switch legs. good luck!

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I am trying to replace an old spring loaded attic fan timer. The old time simply had a black line in and a black line out. There was both a white and red line capped off in the box along with a bare...


The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

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We just bought a house and the living room has a light fixture and there is a dimmer switch that controls it. I removed the light fixture and installed a ceiling fan but the fan barely moves and the light...


You're correct. The dimmer switch was not made for that fan.

The Green is ground > so you're right there too. I assume other plugs nearby are working when dimmer is on. Check that to make sure.

By your description, I assume there is NOT another switch or dimmer that connects to same light. If so, you need a 3-way switch and the following instructions are void.

I suspect when you wired the new fan, that you saw the red and small black wires in the ceiling box. Did you connect the fan and light to those wires? If so, the following information will help you wire the switch.

Your incoming Hot line is probably the larger black wire that connects to Dimmer black >>> this wire will connect to either screw on the new switch

To test Hot wire for sure: Take out dimmer and mark wires for identification. Separate wires. Turn on power and test each wire to bare ground. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. You'll be fine. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Next: The smaller black and a red wires are a toss up.

Here's how I would proceed. Connect the black Hot to either screw on switch. Connect red wire to other screw. Put wire nut over small black. Turn on power. Flip switch. Check both lights and fan to see which works with red wire.

Next reverse the toss up wires. Put wire nut over red. Connect small black to switch. Check both lights and fan.

If red and small black control the light & fan, then connect them together on the same screw, and you're done.

If you want to control the fan and light separately, buy double switch, and then Hot connects to dark-colored screw on one side of switch, and red and small black connect to two different screws on opposite side of switch.

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Utilitech Wall Timer #0192773 does not switch landscape lights on? Replaced Intermatic that had 3 wires. Black to Black, blue to black and red was capped. Utilitech came with 4 wires - black, white,...


Old timer: Intermatic EJ500 & ST01C timers have a battery. Battery operates the clock motor. Red wire is for 3-way circuit [a hallway with 2 switches is a 3-way circuit].

Utilitec timer, clock runs on 120Volt circuit instead of battery. So clock has to have power.

How to connect wires:
Black timer wire connects to hot wire from breaker box.
Red (or blue) timer wire goes to landscape lights.
White timer wire connects to white neutral wire [or if no neutral is available, connect to bare ground wire].
Green timer wire goes to bare ground wire.

How to find black hot wire and white neutral wire inside box
: Disconnect and separate wires so you can test. Use ordinary tester. Power is on. There is only 1 black hot wire inside each electrical box. Test each black wire to bare ground until tester light comes on > that identifies the black hot wire. Next, test black hot wire to white wires until tester light comes on > that is the neutral wire. Exception: This test does not necessarily work with 3-way switches since they reverse each time switch is thrown.

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I lost my Leviton 6230M 30 mins timer installation sheet.


Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
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Timer white wire connects to white neutral (in absence of white neutral, connect Timer white wire to bare ground)
Timer green connects to bare ground wire

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2 Answers

Wiring a ceiling fan w/light


To add to red54's comments:

This is what I believe you have:

- one source in the ceiling box (black & white)

- one donwline circuit in ceiling box going to another wall/ceiling box (black&white)

- on switch wire in ceiling box coming from your wall switch (black & white) -- this is the white wire which will be hot when the switch is truned on

Here's how it should be connected:

- all 3 blacks in ceiling box connected together -- no other wires in this bundle

- white wire (which is hot when switched) coming from switch connects to the black/blackwhite fan wires

- connect all reamining white wires together in bundle

- connect all ground wires together

It's that simple. Trick is figuring out, of the three cables in the ceiling box, which is source, which is downline, which is switch.
Maybe red54's procedure can help you figure that out.

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You have two switches right? One for the light and one for the fan? White should be neutral. Green should be ground. Black should be hot from one switch and red should be hot from the other. Hook black to black and blue to red. If you wire blue and black together then one switch will turn on the fan and the light at the same time.

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