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Using a test light, the wire shows to be "hot". however, when I connect to the fixture, nothing happens. When I place the test light on the place where the wires connect it will not work, but if I d

Using a test light, the wire shows to be "hot". however, when I connect to the fixture, nothing happens. When I place the test light on the place where the wires connect it will not work, but if I disconnect one wire the test light will work...Help?

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HI Jack,

Can you give more details? Is this a house circuit that you are working on, or some vehicle?

In either case, look thoroughly through the ground side, or common side.
With 120 volts, it is possible to have voltage present, sensed with a voltage "sniffer" (needs no direct contact, works by induction) and no go of what you are powering.. My guess is this is not the type of circuit you are working on.

With 12 volts, it is possible to have power, and read with a test light type of tester or VOM. Again, look at the ground side.

SO, another possibility is that you have a "cold" circuit. This type of failure is because of poor, damaged or corroded connections somewhere in the circuit. With this type of failure, you often can get a valid voltage reading, but the circuit fails when actual load is applied.
To find this type of failure (IN 12 VOLT systems), hook up the thingy that you are trying to power, set VOM to enough range, and check along each leg: Positive and Negative. Point to point. one end goes to Positive battery, for example, then you probe just after each POSITIVE connection, along the circuit. What you are looking for is a voltage. for example: a poor connection would have zero volts read on one side of the connection, but 2 volts just after the connection.
So, the quick way is positive battery terminal, to your device, then negative terminal to the negative on your device. One will give large reading. Investigate that 1/2 of the circuit, and you will find you issue.
Hope this helps, if not, get back to me.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

Testimonial: "Thank you for the reply -- I am trying to repair low voltage landscape lights. the were working fine and now something has happened. As I stated above , the wires have power but when I attach the light fixture (20amps) it will not work."


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SOURCE: Wiring Door jamb switch

I'm going to guide you on how to create what is known as a "switch leg".
1- run a 12-2 w/ground wire to the light fixture from new switch.
2- connect black wire "hot wire" to the shiny bronze tinted terminal on switch.
3- connect the white wire " neutral " to the silver connection on switch.
4- connect the naked copper wire " ground " to the ground terminal on switch
5- Disconnect the two white wires in the junction box from each other.
6- Connect the ground to ground in j-box
7- Connect the black to one of the whites in j-box
8- connect the white to the other white in j-box
9- wire nut and tape all connections
Oh and be sure that you turn off the breaker before you start. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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SOURCE: My company wired a residence Inn Hotel and we had

The only way to really see what's going on is with a scope to look at the wave form. The arc fault breaker is the latest attempt by the NEC to control the world. Let's get real here, why on earth would we need 'arc fault protection'? The circuitry is 'looking' for a arc on the load that would indicate a potential ground fault or short circuit. I've heard nothing but negative problems associated with these devices. Too bad they are now required by the NEC. I wonder who got that 'pushed' through'...? There probably making bank right now. Sorry to voice my opinion, let me get back to the problem at hand. I really doubt it's the Chinese ballasts. It's probably more to do with the voltage level with no load, compared to the loaded voltage level. Also, it could have to do with the 'Harmonic Distortion' created by a large 'lagging power factor' coming from the ballast load. A small filter at the service entrance would probably eliminate your problems, but it's really not your problem is it? The building owner would be the one that has to mitigate 'his' electrical system issues. A good engineer capable of doing a 'power study' could have the answers for you...

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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SOURCE: switch loop with mutiple fixtures

Here you go:


Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 12650 Answers

SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Leviton Dimmer Switch wiring and

I recently purchased a Leviton Dimmer switch which has a brown lead. This switch is to replace 1 of 2, 3 way switches that control the ceiling light in my kitchen. My problem is the new dimmer switch has 4 leads including a brown one which has me confused. I have installed and replaced numerous dimmer switches without difficulty. Please help.

Posted on May 20, 2010

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I am trying to install a ceiling fan and from the ceiling I have a copper white and black wire. Now from the fan itself there is a black blue and white wire. Not sure where to connect the copper wire.

Good question, proper wiring is a crucial virtue that needs to be one hundred percent accurate.

Three wires showing from the ceiling lamp fixture harness, positive, negative, and ground.

The negative wire is the white wire,
The Hot wire (positive) is the wire of brighter color than known negative,
220V AC (alternating current) home wiring to(" duplex outlet switch, GFI switch, single/dual pole light switch, lamp fixtures,") the Hot wire or lead, is normally Black, the lighter color, or White is neutral or neggative,
Neutral wire (completes circuit) allows current flow to continue through to other parts of house, Alternating current.

The Ground wire is usually wrapped in green color, or unmarked copper.

The copper wire from the ceiling will need to be grounded to the metal bracket on the new light fixture, a gold or silver screw, sometimes tagged with green, is the proper grounding location, Any place on Metal not attached to ceiling bracket, Ground should be attached to metal on fan,

White wire from Fan is neutral, Negative.
Black wire from Fan is Hot Wire, Positive,
If Blue wire from Fan is Not Manufacture spliced, Meaning no Copper is exposed, Wire is not used, Blue wire is NOT ground,
If Fan has a light, Voltage from Hot Black wire will supply both light and fan functions,

Safety First.
flip off breaker switch to the room fan is being installed.

Doubble Check
Black^Black wire connection is secure.

White^White neutral wire connection is secure.

Ground is fastened securely to metal or wrapped under a screw.

Using splice caps is recomended, The plastic shell encloses the wire connection ensuring No stray copper is exposed, limits possibility of cross wiring.

Google the brand of fan being installed, and Check wire color code, and wiring diagram, Info good to have, and checking twice will only guarantee Lamp Fixture Install Well Done.

(Blue wire may be there for installing multiple ceiling fixtures in a loop circuit, so all controlled by same light switch.)

Enjoy Your New Fan,

Thoughts&Comments, encouraged

Mar 26, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

Leviton Trimatron push on/off dimmer 705

Dimmer: the green wire is for bonding (grounding or earthing) the metal face frame. Do not connect it to the black or red wires. There should be a bare or green wire coming into the box, or the box (if metal) should be grounded through a wire or metal conduit. If the box is metal and you find a bare wire connected to the box, disconnect that wire and replace it with a 6" + (i. e., long enough to extend 6" out of the box) bare wire pigtail. Connect the 6" wire and the green wire to the original bonding wire using a wire nut. The two black wires are electrically interchangeable; they connect the hot wire to the light fixture (in place of a switch).
Existing house wiring: this is a head scratcher. In US residential wiring, one might see a 3/1 non-metallic cable with a black, red and white wire plus a bare wire for bonding coming from a light fixture. This would be used in one of two ways. In one, the black would be hot, the red would be the switched wire to the light fixture, and the white would provide a neutral connection for lighting control devices that need it. In the other (possibly more applicable to your situation), the white would be marked with black tape and would serve either as the incoming hot or as the switched wire to the lighting fixture (the black would have the other function), and the red would serve as a second switched wire for a fan or other load. The wise thing to do would be to remove the lighting fixture and have a look at the other end of the cable - take special note of the connections going to the fixture(s). You are looking for the hot connection coming in to the fixture box and the switched wire going to the fixture. But two black wires? How is it possible to tell which one is which without turning on power? Is there a difference in insulation marking? Or are the connected together?
Another common configuration (and I think this is what you have) is to bring hot and neutral into the box from the branch wiring, then send the switched connection(s) out of the box, and tie the neutrals (white wires) together with a wire nut. (Look for the neutral connection inside the box; if you find one, the job is relatively simple) In this case, one of the black wires is the incoming hot (comes from the cable without the red wire but with the incoming neutral), the other black wire and the red wire go to the fixture in the other cable along with the outgoing white neutral wire. You still need to look at the fixture to find out whether it gets the black wire or the red wire. It is possible that one of the wires (most likely red) is a spare for possible use in a fan/light combination.
Once you have identified which wire is the incoming hot and the switched wire going to the fixture, connect one of the black wires on the dimmer to the hot and the other black wire from the dimmer to the switched wire. What you do with remaining wire depends on what is done with it at the fixture box. If it is an unconnected spare, tape over the end (if stripped) and push it back into the box so it doesn't accidentally poke into a wire not and become energized. If it is connected in parallel with one of the other wires (unlikely), do the same at the dimmer box end. If it is connected to another load (probably a fan), consider replacing the dimmer box with a double gang box and adding a separate switch for the fan (do not run the fan on the dimmer!).
If you have any doubt about what you find, you should hand this job over to a professional electrician. There are a couple of ways to get into trouble with this, especially if the person who originally wired the fixture didn't follow the electrical code. The worst case is you connect the two switched wires to the dimmer and leave the hot wire open and exposed inside the box, and it comes into contact with a metal part in the box. This is potentially dangerous and destructive.

Jun 22, 2013 | Cycling

1 Answer

I needed to add another light fixture and mount the switch next to an existing switch to another light fixture. When i run the hot wire from the existing switch to my new switch for the positive and t

You can use a double switch, or make a '2-gang box' by adding another switch.
Copy following links for wiring multiple switches inside same box, and wiring double switch.

Here is image showing 120Volt wiring inside main breaker box, so Hot Neutral and ground are clearer.

Aug 23, 2012 | Home

2 Answers

I have a dead short somewhere in the wiring for 6 recessed ceiling lights. How do I trouble shoot this to find the short

Test each light separately.
Black Hot wire arrives at one screw on the switch. The Hot black wire going to Lights connects to other screw on the switch.
The White Neutral that completes the circuit to lights is connected with other white wires that are covered with wire nut pushed to back of box.
Open up light#1, and the Hot and Neutral arrive from switch box.
The Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6 are also located inside light#1 box.
Check each wire for signs of high heat and burning. Check each wire if the insulation has been sliced, or cut short, or if copper is visible because wire nut does not cover wires correctly
Disconnect Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6, so switch is only turning on light#1.
Test if there is a short when turning switch ON.
Then repeat step, so switch turns on light#1 and light#2, but light#3-6 are disconnected.

May 31, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Need instructions for installing- model 0192773 instructions # 3 ses connect red timer wire to wire from fixture using wire connector What is the wire from the fixture, is it postive or negative? no...

Open following link for large print instructions, and specific wiring step.
Read the additional help for step by step action.

The 'wire from fixture' means the wire that goes to the light.
One of the two wires that previously connected to switch is 'wire from fixture.'

The wire that goes to light will not show any power when it is disconnected from switch, and will not test positive or negative.

Single phase household electricity does not test positive or negative.
Household electricity is AC current which means the electricity is an oscillating wave that reverses direction either 50 or 60 times per second, depending on which country you reside.

For example each electrical appliance, like TV or treadmill, has small rating sticker, and in US, the rating sticker will show 60Hz. This is 60 cycles per second. A 60Hz appliance will not work in India or New Zealand or other countries that have 50Hz electricity.

Batteries are DC current and will test positive or negative.
Household electricity is AC current and does not test positive or negative.
Open following link for general illustration of household wiring:

Sep 07, 2011 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer

How to wire this fan

The wiring on most paddle / ceiling fans id such:

White = Fan and Light neutral or "common"
Black = Fan line voltage or "hot"
Blue = Light line voltage or "hot"
Green = safety ground

If you are replacing an existing light fixture - be sure to replace the ceiling box with one designed for use with a fan - as per electrical code. If the existing box had only 2 wires (or 3 counting the ground) that connected to the old light fixture and it was controlled from a wall switch, the wiring would be fixture white to ceiling white, fixture black and fixture blue to ceiling black (or red) and fixture green to ceiling bare ground or connected to the metal box. This would power both the fan and light whenever the wall switch was on and the pull chains for each were also on. This is also the preferred wiring for replacement of a pull chain type light fixture (no wall switch present).

If there are other wires in the box that previously were not connected to the old light fixture, using a meter or tester - determine if there is constant power between the ceiling white wire and any of the these other wires (test with the wall switch on and off to be sure). If you do have constant power available, you might consider using the wall switch to control only the light, and using the pull chain to operate the fan (or vice-versa). Simply connect the black (for fan) or the blue (for light) to the "constant power on" wire and that part of the fixture will work by pull chain only - regardless of the wall switch position. If the fan can be shut off by the wall switch, it is very important that the wall switch remain a toggle (or on / off switch), do NOT replace with a dimmer type switch.

If you'd prefer to operate the fan and light completely independently of each other - you can purchase a 3rd party fan & light remote control device for between $30 - $50.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thanks!

Apr 22, 2011 | Aloha Housewares (93645) Ceiling Fan

1 Answer

Need to hook this up to a lutron eco-t528-277-2 ballast which only has a hot,dimmed hot and neutral

If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot

Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange


Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box

So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

Oct 04, 2010 | Leviton Decora Light Dimmer Switch

1 Answer

I have a ceiling light that does not have a switch anywhere. Can a hunter 27185 remote control be used to control the ceiling light fixture only. There is no fan in this scenario. How should it be wired?...

Connect the lamp output wire of the receiver to the hot wire of the fixture, and the incoming hot wire to the hot input of the receiver. Be sure to insulate the fan output wire(s) so nothing nasty happens if someone presses the fan on button.

Check the remote control manual to see if you can use compact fluorescent bulbs. You probably cannot if this is a dimming lamp control; most CF bulbs flicker wildly if used with dimmers, and will not last long.

You can also buy remote lamp-only switches.

Sep 22, 2010 | Hunter 27185 Remote Control

1 Answer

In replacing a broken pull chain (no 3-way power here: simple pull-on/pull-off) on the 3-bulb light fixture of my fan/light combo ceiling appliance, I lost track of how to re-attach the two black wires...

I assume the switch operates the lights only. Besides the ground (green or bare) and the neutrals (4 white wires all connected together), the only wires of interest should be 4 wires (black) from the fixture and the 2 wires on your switch. Of the 4 black wires, one of them is the hot wire and the other 3 connect to the three bulbs. Connect the hot wire to either one of your switch leads and connect the other 3 wires to the other switch lead.
If you don't know which of the 4 black wires is hot you can find it by the process of elimination as follows---- connect any three of the black wires together (then supply power), if nothing lights, then the 4th wire is hot. Otherwise 2 bulbs should light. Remove one wire from this trio. If nothing lights, the wire you just removed is the hot wire. Otherwise, one bulb should light and one of these two remaining wires is the hot wire. Take one of those last two wires and connect it to one of the other bulbs. If it lights, then the wire you just moved is hot. Otherwise the one you left behind is hot. I hope this is helpful. Good luck. Be safe! Al K

Aug 03, 2010 | Westinghouse Electric Ceiling Fan 3-way...

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