Question about Electrical Supplies
Using a test light, the wire shows to be "hot". however, when I connect to the fixture, nothing happens. When I place the test light on the place where the wires connect it will not work, but if I disconnect one wire the test light will work...Help?
Can you give more details? Is this a house circuit that you are working on, or some vehicle?
In either case, look thoroughly through the ground side, or common side.
With 120 volts, it is possible to have voltage present, sensed with a voltage "sniffer" (needs no direct contact, works by induction) and no go of what you are powering.. My guess is this is not the type of circuit you are working on.
With 12 volts, it is possible to have power, and read with a test light type of tester or VOM. Again, look at the ground side.
SO, another possibility is that you have a "cold" circuit. This type of failure is because of poor, damaged or corroded connections somewhere in the circuit. With this type of failure, you often can get a valid voltage reading, but the circuit fails when actual load is applied.
To find this type of failure (IN 12 VOLT systems), hook up the thingy that you are trying to power, set VOM to enough range, and check along each leg: Positive and Negative. Point to point. one end goes to Positive battery, for example, then you probe just after each POSITIVE connection, along the circuit. What you are looking for is a voltage. for example: a poor connection would have zero volts read on one side of the connection, but 2 volts just after the connection.
So, the quick way is positive battery terminal, to your device, then negative terminal to the negative on your device. One will give large reading. Investigate that 1/2 of the circuit, and you will find you issue.
Hope this helps, if not, get back to me.
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
Testimonial: "Thank you for the reply -- I am trying to repair low voltage landscape lights. the were working fine and now something has happened. As I stated above , the wires have power but when I attach the light fixture (20amps) it will not work."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Wiring Door jamb switch
I'm going to guide you on how to create what is known as a "switch leg".
1- run a 12-2 w/ground wire to the light fixture from new switch.
2- connect black wire "hot wire" to the shiny bronze tinted terminal on switch.
3- connect the white wire " neutral " to the silver connection on switch.
4- connect the naked copper wire " ground " to the ground terminal on switch
5- Disconnect the two white wires in the junction box from each other.
6- Connect the ground to ground in j-box
7- Connect the black to one of the whites in j-box
8- connect the white to the other white in j-box
9- wire nut and tape all connections
Oh and be sure that you turn off the breaker before you start. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
The only way to really see what's going on is with a scope to look at the wave form. The arc fault breaker is the latest attempt by the NEC to control the world. Let's get real here, why on earth would we need 'arc fault protection'? The circuitry is 'looking' for a arc on the load that would indicate a potential ground fault or short circuit. I've heard nothing but negative problems associated with these devices. Too bad they are now required by the NEC. I wonder who got that 'pushed' through'...? There probably making bank right now. Sorry to voice my opinion, let me get back to the problem at hand. I really doubt it's the Chinese ballasts. It's probably more to do with the voltage level with no load, compared to the loaded voltage level. Also, it could have to do with the 'Harmonic Distortion' created by a large 'lagging power factor' coming from the ballast load. A small filter at the service entrance would probably eliminate your problems, but it's really not your problem is it? The building owner would be the one that has to mitigate 'his' electrical system issues. A good engineer capable of doing a 'power study' could have the answers for you...
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
SOURCE: Leviton Dimmer Switch wiring and
I recently purchased a Leviton Dimmer switch which has a brown lead. This switch is to replace 1 of 2, 3 way switches that control the ceiling light in my kitchen. My problem is the new dimmer switch has 4 leads including a brown one which has me confused. I have installed and replaced numerous dimmer switches without difficulty. Please help.
Posted on May 20, 2010
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