Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
When it first acted up I took out the element and found the terminal block melted, so I replaced it. A few months later it melted again, so I replaced it again along with the surface element. Later it melted again so I replaced the element control switch and the terminal block., and once again it melted the terminal block. Can you help before I get rid of it once and for all.
Brother Jeff, this happens all the time because the connections are not perfect, causing arcing at the point around the connection. This arcing makes for excessive heat and melts the block. I replaced the connections on my Mothers stove top with crimped connectors and it lasted a lot longer. They didn't burn out any more, she just needs a new stove. So your best bet is to use crimp on connectors instead of the OEM block that's melting from a loos connection.
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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Posted on Jan 29, 2009
If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.
To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know
Posted on May 17, 2009
It is usually always an infinite switch, Rarely is it a surface element. The fact that the power light does not go on is also a good clue that your switch is bad. If it was a problem with the wiring to the element, your light would be on. When you order the switch, ask for the exact origional replacement. They have some generic switches that have shafts that have to be broken off to the right size for your range. These are not as reliable as the origional which usually has a much stronger shaft. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
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