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I have a presto heat dish that I needed to replace the wall cord to. I cut off the old one, stripped the wires and attached the New plug. Whe plugged in the buzzer kept sounding, so I removed the plug and reversed the two wires. This tome it buzzed for a moment and one does not work at all. I originally replaced the plug because it had shorted out and sparks had come out of the plug. It had also flipped a breaker. Can it be repaired?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Presto Heat Dish buzzer

I have no doubt that a previous post meant well with the suggestion to remove and bypass the tilt (or "tip") switch but this a very dangerous thing to do. It costs the manufacturer money to incorporate these safety features. It cuts their profit margin so believe me they wouldn't include them if it wasn't absolutely necessary. To eliminate this switch would disable the unit's capability to not only warn you with the buzzer of an upset condition but also ensure that the element will stay on when lying on it's side on the floor!! The only way the heater "knows" that it has been tipped is from this switch opening up and splicing it's wires directly together will forever prevent the detection of an upset heater. If you fall asleep with the unit on and the pooch brushes past it, knocking it over, it will lie on your nice carpet or wood floor silently cooking anything it touches and the alarm won't sound even when you need it. Don't set yourself up for an easy fire.
The buzzer is wired in series with the heating element (coil) and without the two safety switches it would stay on forever (the round button-like devce at the top of the reflector dish is a temperature high limit switch there to prevent a runaway heat condition). These two switches actually short circiut the buzzer so current will flow only through the heater element under normal operation but if either switch opens current can now flow to the alarm buzzer as well. Since the buzzer adds a lot of resistance to the coil/buzzer path it severely reduces the available shared current to the point where the coil won't heat up but since the buzzer only needs a fraction of what the coil does, it sounds off.
Incidently, that high temperature switch can be tripped off (turning on the buzzer) by a dirty reflector because the dirt or crud spilled on the dish prevents full reflection of the developed heat, dramatically increasing the temperature near the limit switch (as a white surface under the sun reflects heat while a black surface absorbs it). It usually takes a few minutes for this to happen. When the switch resets the cycle repeats. However if the alarm sounds immediately for no apparent reason at start up, either switch or the associated wiring will be open circiut.
Many electrical devices that I have serviced have different sized connectors to prevent mixing up their positions when reassembling but these units use identical sized spade terminals so make sure you note their original locations before pulling them off. Transposed wires may appear normal but cause many and varied new problems. Wires normally are routed to avoid strain so if one looks like it is stretching too hard to reach it's terminal it's probably in the wrong spot.

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

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