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Is there any way that I could have assembled the canister filter wrong after servicing, because my fish dont look good after servicing

I cleaned my filter for the first time using old tank water. Four days later my fish started behaving strange. I'm afraid that I may have assembled it wrong.

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I cleaned the filter and emptied out the canister from the bottom and now the dirt comes out on my filter and not in the canister?

The first place the "dirty" air enters is the top chamber of the canister where it traps the bigger stuff.

The canister has two clean-out doors so make sure you open them both (top and bottom) or you could have problems.

Nice thing about the Shark as it has a number of clean-out points starting at the base of the hose where it enters the bottom of the vac. to the beater brush (on the bottom of just behind the brush assembly). Good luck!

Mar 16, 2015 | Shark Navigator Bagless Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

How to change the fuel filter on a 2005 Kia sedona

The 2005 is supposed to be the same fuel filter assembly as the earlier years 2002, 2003, 2004, although I tried to put the 2005 assembly in my 2003 and it was too wide for the opening in the gas tank, and therefore would not work. In any case, that particular assembly also did not have the same fuel filter as the one for my 2003, but it may have been an aftermarket part.

Assuming it was an aftermarket product that is not the same as my 2003, when the original is the same between the years, I have captured a detailed explanation and edited it from another mechanic here.
Kia Carnival (GV6) -Replacing the Fuel Filter
This procedure is an expansion of the procedure for removing and replacing the fuel filter provided in the Kia Carnival / Sedona GV6 workshop manual 'FL' section. It may not necessarily apply to
vehicles with other than the 2.5 litre GV6/KV5/K5 engine.

These have the paper element fuel filter as part of the fuel pump / level sender assembly in the fuel tank. It is a hard plastic container style filter that retails around $35.

If you have read the Kia 'FL' workshop manual section on fuel filter replacement this looks like a relatively straightforward job, and it is. However, it is a bit more involved than the manual would suggest

The fuel filter for this vehicle should be replaced at 60,000km intervals, or more frequently if fuel particulate contamination is known to be a problem in your region.

The filter is located in the fuel tank in an assembly that includes the electric fuel pump and fuel level sender. The fuel tank is under the vehicle, almost in the middle, and the pump / filter / sender
assembly is accessed from a service opening in the floor in front of and between the middle row seats.

It's not a bad idea to schedule this task when the fuel tank is nearly empty. Nevertheless, it's a job where you will have fuel everywhere and need lots of rags and plastic bags. Make sure you have an appropriately ventilated workspace and, above all, keep in mind ignition hazards.
Releasing Fuel System Pressure
This procedure should be performed before opening up any of the fuel system lines. As the Kia manual says:


With your fingers lift and swing open the carpeted hatch of the service opening in the floor just in front and in the middle of the second row of seats. The hatch opens toward the front of the vehicle - This exposes the 4 screws used to remove the hatch. Hatch in floor in front of and between the middle row of seats.
Hatch lifted. It just covers the screws.
Remove 4 screws and remove the hatch. The metal access panel can now be seen, with the fuel pump / level sender cable emerging from it. The cable is the electric pump and fuel level sender harness.
Remove the 4 screws securing the metal panel to the floor pan. Swing the panel to the RH side of the vehicle.
The top of the pump / filter/ sender assembly and the fuel tank can now be seen. (It'll usually be covered in road dust).
Make sure you can remove the pump electrical connector (i.e. contacts not corroded, etc). It's released by depressing the plastic locking tang on top of the cable side. However leave the connector connected for the moment.
Start the engine. 7. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. The engine will run for a while and stall as the fuel pressure drops. 8. Turn the ignition off.
Remove the fuel filler cap to release any pressure in the fuel tank.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing any work on the fuel system.
Fuel Filter Removal :
Release the fuel system pressure be sure that the fuel filler cap has been removed to release any pressure in the fuel tank, and the negative battery terminal has been disconnected. (Do it in that order, otherwise you'll have to use the manual 'emergency' wire-pull release to open the fuel flap).
From the service opening in the cabin (opened as part of the procedure to release the fuel pressure), make sure the top of the pump / filter / sender assembly is clean to prevent FOD entering the fuel tank. Loosen dirt with a brush (a stiff paintbrush is good), and use a vacuum cleaner or air hose to remove the material. (There was even road gravel on mine). I went to the dollar store and bought a small amount of clear plastic contact paper, and when it was time to remove the fuel pump assembly I had a tacky cover for the hole to the gas tank. It stuck to the surface just right, and sealed the opening and kept the gas from releasing fumes into the cabin. And just as important, nothing could fall into the tank while I was doing the work..
Take all the usual prudent precautions regarding sources of ignition close by before the next step. E.g. if you used a vacuum cleaner to clean the top of the tank, disconnect it from the mains or move it well away. Put a plastic sheet or similar between the service opening and the LH sliding door. This will protect the carpet from fuel drips as you remove the assembly from the vehicle.
Use pliers to compress and move the metal or plastic clamps on the main and return hoses, mark which one is which, on the left or right.. Have rags at the ready and slowly & carefully pull the rubber hoses off the pipes -although the pressure has been nominally released, plenty of fuel will still squirt from the hoses (gravity-feeding from the hoses, the regulator & injector rails) so be careful as the hoses come off the pipes that fuel doesn't spray - particularly into your eyes. Catch as much as you can with the rags. If the hoses are hard to get off, twist them a bit to loosen any adhesion to the pipes. I swung the panel back in position for a while to allow the spilled fuel to evaporate from the top of the tank before placing the contact paper on the opening.
Undo the 6 small screws securing the pump / filter / sender assembly to the fuel tank. The assembly is on springs to keep it firmly pressed to the bottom of the fuel tank. So as you undo the screws it may tend to spring up. Just keep it pressed down with your hand until all screws
are removed.
Read all of this step before lifting the assembly out of the fuel tank. The gasket under the top may have adhered slightly to the tank and may provide a bit of initial resistance. As you raise the assembly out of the tank, begin tilting it to the left side of the vehicle to allow the fuel level float and arm to come cleanly out of the tank. Lifting the assembly straight up may damage the arm and level sender assembly.

Unfortunately the diagram in the 'FL' manual doesn't give you a clue that the fuel level float and arm are there at all because of the aspect from which it is drawn. Diagram from the Kia workshop manual 'FL' section - the float and arm are not apparent.
Make sure the connectors do not hang into the tank.
I removed the fuel level sender mechanism from the side of the canister as I was concerned that it could get damaged. Not really necessary though. It's removed by disconnecting the electrical connector under the top plate, depressing the plastic tang at the lower end of the sender assembly, and moving the assembly upwards until it clears the plastic rails on the outside of the canister.
Remove the canister from pump & filter assembly. If not already removed, the fuel level sender cable needs to be unplugged. Then the four plastic clips are raised gently with a screwdriver and the canister slips off. Some resistance will be felt -you are also pulling an O-ring out of an internal fitting in the canister.When pulling the canister off the assembly, the resistance felt is from pulling the return line connection out of its mating fitting in the canister. On reinstallation, these need to be aligned.
The Kia manual simply says "Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and pull the fuel pump from the fuel filter" and presents a diagram.but there's a bit more to it. More detailed steps are:

Disconnect the fuel pump connector from under the top plate.

Remove the main hose fitting from the filter housing by gently lifting up the two plastic retainers

Remove the filter (containing the pump) from the canister top (on mine, the plastic clips barely retained it).

Remove the pump retaining cap by gently prying up the retainers. Be careful not to lose the rubber pad between cap and the pump.
Gauze screen
Main hose fitting
Pump retaining cap
With a small screwdriver, depress the metal tang on the electrical connection on the side of the filter and remove the contact: Slide the pump out of the filter assembly.
The cable connection on the pump body is designed to be removed, but is not easy in situ as it is buried in the filter. I left it on and extracted the cable & connector through the opening in the filter, then disconnected the cable from the pump.
11. The manual says "Be careful not to lose the 4 O-Rings." and presents the diagram. Here's where the 'O-Rings' are located (the sleeve and gasket don't seem much like 'O-rings'
to me, but what's in a name).
(gasket) on top.
(sleeve) on pump outlet.
on Return line
O-Ring on
Main line to filter Rubber pad
outlet under pump inlet

Interpretation of Kia's "O-Ring" diagram. The pump and top "O-Rings" are more appropriately described as a sleeve and gasket respectively.

With mine, the main line O-ring stayed in the filter and needed to be gently pried out with a screwdriver.
retained in filter
Fuel Filter Replacement

Pump retaining cap
Top springs to hold assembly to bottom of tank.
Canister top
Filter unit
Return line fitting
Main line fitting in filter outlet
Gauze screen
Pump and filter assembly before canister is slipped on.

Remove the fuel pump / filter / sender assembly
Gently clean any particulate matter off the gauze pre-filter screen with a brush. And clean any particulate out of the bottom of the canister. (Be careful not to damage or dislodge the flapper valve in the canister).
Make sure the rubber sleeve (and the funny little 'gear' spacer) are on the pump outlet, align the outlet with the new filter's inlet and press the pump firmly into the new filter until it seats.
Press pump outlet into this fitting in filter.
Slip the gauze screen into the pump retaining cap (assuming that it has fallen off), put the rubber pad into the cap, and clip the cap onto the filter.
Plug the cable into the pump and slide the electrical contact into its location into the filter until it clicks.
Feed the connector & cable through the canister lid.
Ensure the o-ring is in place on the main line fitting, and press the fitting into to the filter's outlet until the tangs click on both sides.
Sit the return line hose fitting into the fitting in the filter, making sure it is engaged fully in the four slots. (The fitting looks like it's part of the fuel system, but it's in fact 'blind').
Hold the assembly upside down, and lower the canister onto it, aligned so that the return line engages with the tube in the canister. Press firmly until the clips on the canister lid engage.
Reinstall the fuel level sender onto the side of the canister if you removed it.
Reconnect the fuel level sender connector on the underside of the top. The sender connector is on the sender side of the top:
Recheck the security of all fittings etc, Remove the contact paper seal you put onto the gas tank opening, and lower the assembly into the fuel tank (pipes point to the vehicle left side).
Hold the top down against the springs, align the holes and install the 6 screws.
Put the clamps onto the rubber hoses, reconnect to the pipes, and reconnect the pump/sender cable and the other cables.
Screw the 5 screws to hold the metal plate over the unit
Screw on the plastic/carpet cover.

Before starting the vehicle, make sure there are no gas leaks, that the electrical connectors are installed tightly and the gas cap is back on.
When you turn the ignition key do not engage the starter yet - you should hear the pump working. Let the pump work for the 30 seconds it will run before a start. Turn the key off and reingage the pump two more times before engaging the starter.

This will move gas to where it needs to be in order to start, and create the vacuum needed to pump the gas from the tank.

After three times, turn the ignition key all the way to engage the starter and your vehicle should start.

Jun 23, 2014 | 2005 Kia Sedona

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Leak around seal

Srry i dont have an answer , it took me 4 hours to set mine up , It sucked in air so bad , i took it apart like 8 times before the air bubbles stopped , i hope i dont have this issue every time i take it apart

Feb 05, 2014 | Marineland C-360 Aquarium Canister Filter...

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Cloudy water that stinks

1st priory is to save the fish !! move them to a new container consisting of half old water and half new water (declorinated) along with a small air bubbler !! this should help your fish to recover (don't use soap to clean out container it is toxic to fish) moist table salt is best to use for a cleaning agent and rinse well b4 putting fish inside

then ck to see if your aquarium is pumping water thru the filter and falling back into tank ( replace all the water in the tank 1st with two rinses ) make needed repairs to pump and or filter assembly (New filter cartridge) new pump impellers and cartridges are available for purchase for your aquarium from vendors that sell aquariums and allways ck the outlet the pump is plugging in b4 blaming a pump fail with a known good table light set to "On" they do go off once and an a while
verify that water chemistry is ok b4 retuning fish to tank and observe fish for strange behavior for next several hours ( upside down swimming, laying sideways )

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There are two filters that are washable. One is in the top of the dust bin and the other is in the ball assembly.

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What does code 446 mean on the 1996 Chevy Blazer?

P0446 = Evaporative Emission Control / System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction.

Check it, and before you replace the Evap Canister read this:

Subject: DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) Set, Service Engine Soon (SES) Lamp Illuminated (Replace Hose/Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Asm) #02-06-04-037A - (02/02/2005)
Models: 1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado Models
1999-2003 GMC Sierra Models
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-037 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).
Some customers whose vehicles are operated in dusty type environments, such as farming or mining off-road type applications, may comment about the illumination of the instrument panel SES light, with a DTC of P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) being set.

Dirt and dust intrusion into the EVAP canister vent hose assembly, resulting in restricted air flow, may cause this condition.

After following the Service Manual diagnostic P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the SES light, replace the existing EVAP canister vent hose assembly with a new assembly, P/N 15086429. This new assembly has an enhanced filtering capability and a filter element that can be easily removed and cleaned. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedure below.

Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Disconnect the vent valve pipe at the EVAP canister.
Remove and retain the EVAP canister vent valve bracket mounting bolt.
Disengage, from the underbody, the two vent valve pipe clips securing the pipe to the underbody.
Remove and discard the complete EVAP canister vent hose assembly.
Position and secure the new assembly to the underbody using the existing hole and mounting bolt.
Tighten the bracket mounting bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

Install the two vent valve pipe clips into the existing underbody holes.
Connect the vent valve pipe to the EVAP canister.
Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.
Lower the vehicle.
When properly installed, the new EVAP canister vent hose assembly will be positioned outboard of the original installation location. This new location provides clearance for accessing the filter element for cleaning purposes. To access the filter element, disengage the filter cover to valve locking finger by gently lifting the finger upward while simultaneously rotating the filter body clockwise. After approximately 45 degrees of rotation, the filter can be disengaged from the valve by gently pulling outward. The filter cover can then be removed and the filter element and body can be washed with soap and water. Prior to reinstalling, ensure that the body and filter element are dry.

Parts Information
Part Number 15086429 Hose Asm-Evap Emis Cnstr Vent

Hope help with this.

Mar 18, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Eureka optima

The filter probably needs a darn good clean. If it is clean, wipe the inside of the canister with a clean cloth to get rid of static.

Oct 13, 2007 | Eureka 431A Optima Bagless Upright Vacuum

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