Question about GE Stove / Oven / RanMain Top Assembly White - WB62T10268

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I have an electric stovetop and did a self cleaning it would not unlock so i turned off breaker and was able to unlock when i did the baking element was so brittle that it snapped and now all the burn

I have an electric stovetop and did a self cleaning it would not unlock so i turned off breaker and was able to unlock when i did the baking element was so brittle that it snapped and now all the burners will not work but the on light is on can you help

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  • mark stein
    mark stein Dec 01, 2014

    also i noticed nothing is working except surface unit light and clock when i turned on broiler it did not heat my question also if the baking element broken(physically) would that stop all heating items to stop working?

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Ok,... First, and foremost, stop using the self clean. It takes the temperature up to 900 deg F, and creates all sorts of other problems with the lock motor and the walls and the bake/broil elements. Use a Low odor Easy-off spray cleaner to clean your oven from now-on, please.

Now, the bake element needs to be replaced. If you have the model number (found on the body of the Range behind the lower drawer, if you pull it out) I can look-up the manufacturer's suggested part to be replaced. You may also need to replace the broil element, but that usually is the last element to burn-out as most people don't use the broil function of an oven.

You will have to pull the range away from the wall, and unplug it before you attempt to replace any parts. No need to have 240 VAC/30 Amps running through your body. There are several black 1/4" screws that secure the back panel on the oven section to the body (about 6 to 8) and they will have to be removed to pull and replace the wires on the oven bake and/or broil elements. You will also have to go to the oven door (on the front of the range) open it, and remove the two 1/4" screws that secure each element to the body before you can change-out the element(s). The most popular bake elements for GE Ovens are part #WB44K10005 and/or WB44T10010, but there are other Bake elements. Will need the model of your Range to ID the correct element and the cost.

Now as for the rest of the burners on the stovetop not working, they are usually independent from the oven functions, which are wired into the controller in the center of the range control console, but there are a couple of GE models that wired the stove burners into the oven timer/controller. If this is the case, then you may also need to replace the oven timer/controller.

If the stove elements are independent and are only wired to the Infinite switches that control the front left, rear left, front right, rear right burners, than the problem is either with the actual radiant heat burner elements or the infinite switches that independently control each burner. I would still need a model number for the Range to help you more with this.

Hope this is of some help.

Dave

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

Testimonial: "thanks dave the model number is jbp21gv2wh all the burners were working before so if you could let me know what you think i need to do i would appreciate it. someone else suggested i replace oven but i am not in a financial position to do that as things are very tight. Please help and thank you again."

  • David Dunne Dec 01, 2014

    The Bake element is part #WB44X5082 and they are about $37. If you also have to replace the broil element, it is Part#WB44X185 also aout $38. The more expensive part may be replacing the Temp Probe Part #WB23X5340 at about $93. The model you gave me shows coil stove elements, and not radient heat elements. Is that correct?

  • David Dunne Dec 01, 2014

    If replacing the bake element doesn't get you back to working, then the main control will need to be replaced, as well. That is part#WB27X10215, and they are about $163, which I'm hoping you don't have to replace. Piecemeal repairs on this range may be as costly to repair as it might be to replace with a used range. It appears that the Main Oven Control has only the timer and the oven functions connected to it. The burners are independent, and are controlled by each Infinite switch for each burner, so now you have to look at each burner and each infinite switch to determine if one of the switches (which are wired in-series to the other switches) may be burned-out. Those Infinite switches are Part#WB21X5243 for both the 6" and the 8" burners. They cost about $31 each.

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When you use the "Self Cleaning" feature on an oven, normally you will have to set the timer on the stove to determine how long it will stay on... typically around an hour. The locking feature is there to prevent you from opening it up because of the extreme temperatures that occur inside to oven during the Self-Cleaning procedure. The temperatures can possibly get up to 900 degrees or so. By not having the timer set at the desirable time, you in effect, crystalized the heating element causing it to be brittle.
I can't tell for sure without seeing, but I would suggest checking to the timer to make sure it is not still calling for the elements to be hot.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

Testimonial: "how can i do that? check the timer im sorry if i sound but never dealt with this before.Any help would be appreciated"

  • Edward Hurst Dec 04, 2014

    The timer for the self cleaning feature is the same timer used to set for baking in the oven. Set the timer to stay on for approximately an hour and select "Clean". At the endof the time you set on the baking timer the oven will shut off and unlock when it cools down.

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Go and purchase a new stove, you've ruined the one you have. The reason you couldn't unlock it is because it was going through it's cool off cycle which includes heating it to lower temperatures during the cool down so that the element doesn't become brittle.
By turning off the breaker so you could unlock it defeated the way it's designed to work.
Sorry there isn't better news but it is all listed in the owners manual on how to run the self clean feature.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

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