Question about Air Tools & Compressors
The extension cord is two long, causing the over heating, causing the breaker to trip. A good oil to use would be a 10w-30. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are several conditions that would cause the problem that you have. Worn bearings, weak capacitor, or leaking in-tank checkvalve. Worn bearings would allow armature to drag against the field windings. Easy to check, motor shaft will feel loose in housing and the bearings will be noisy when you turn by hand. Motor capacitors should read to within 95% of uf value printed on side. You must remove at least one lead and short connectors for a moment then read with meter. Repair shops will generally test for free if you do not have a cap. tester. The in-tank check valve will cause undue strain on the motor if it leaks pressure back to pump from tank. Follow air discharge hose to brass valve at tank. Simple test with air in tank remove airline at checkvalve and look/listen or soapy water. Replace if it leaks or remove and clean debris till no leak. If motor strains with no air in tank I would rule-out check valve. One final condition, which is rare, is the flyball switch inside of motor. The motor has a start winding and run winding. Contacts to this internal switch will sometimes fuse in start position and cause your condition, however a motor stuck in this position will make an unusal sound because it cannot switch to run position. (like a car stuck in first gear) If you feel that this could be the problem, remove motor rear cover and sand contacts. Good Luck on your repair and email if you have specific question.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
usally there is a releaf valve that takes the pressure off the compressor while it is resting. If that pressure is not off when the drive piston starts the motor will overload and blow the the breaker or reset. Check for a releaf valve for when the unit has reached full pressure
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
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