Question about Roper Dryers

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How do I test light blue wire on timer- terminal "B" for voltage. where do I put the test probes ? for Roper elec. dryer RED4440VQ1

I've got power to dryer. checked thermal fuse, that's ok. I know I put one probe on the light blue wire on term "B".....but where do I put the other probe wire to check for 110 volts ??

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  • Expert
  • 88 Answers

Anywhere you can see bare metal on the dryer itself. The dryer chasis should be well grounded and this will show you a difference in potential if its there.

Posted on Dec 04, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Jimster
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SOURCE: Gas Dryer not heating

You will have to replace "BOTH" of those gas solinoids. First, be absolutely sure that you "TURN OFF THE GAS". Then be sure the unit is unplugged. Remove the phillips head screws, remove the small metal top bracket, and slide the coil up and off. Then replace the coil, rehook your wire, and replace the metal holder. Upon testing, be sure to turn your gas back on. The first time it may act like it wont start, but let it cycle through a couple times to remove air. Good Luck And Be Safe. Jim

Posted on Sep 07, 2007

Amigaman
  • 248 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer does not heat up and now wont start!

Recheck for 220 at plug. May have tripped breaker.
PULL PLUG FIRST!!
Remove rear panel. Check for continuity at white thermal fuse located near bottom center on the blower housing. It should close to 0 resistance. Also check hi-limits on side of heater housing. Also should be close to 0 resistance. If any are open, replace and clear venting. Also remove 4 screws on bottom of filter housing and pull bottom of housing out. Reach in and remove lint.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

  • 263 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer will not start

Go to the breaker panel and make sure the neutral is making good contact. Especially check for corrosion. If it is good there, look for other connections between breaker panel and dryer. It seem to me you have a bad neutral somewhere.

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer does'nt run. checked breaker, thermal fuse, starter relay, timer stops when door is opened, starts when closed?

2 more things could be wrong,check the blower box to see if you have a thermister thermostat on it,check that with your omns meter,the other thing is the motor is no longer strong enough to turn the drum and it heat up and tips off,let me know what you find-mike

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 523 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - No Heat

110 comes from the motor 110 comes from the timer remove the wire that comes from the motor see if you have 110 if you do the timer is bad if not the motor is. even if the motor is turning its bad

Posted on Jun 08, 2010

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No display on some of the cycles,whens set on cycle that timer lights up and i push start button, the dryer turns off


Start Switch

A faulty start switch will disable the dryer. To test the switch, access will have to be made within the control panel. Locate the start switch inside the control console. It will have two or three wires connected to it. Remove the wires by pulling at the connectors and taking them off the terminals.

Using a volt-ohm meter, test the terminals on the switch. Set the meter to "RX1" and touch a probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity should be seen. Next, while still holding the probes on the terminals, press the start switch. A reading of zero should be present.

If the switch does not pass either test, replace the switch with a new one.
Door Switch

If the door switch is faulty, the dryer will not run. To access the door switch, the top cover of the dryer must be removed. After the top is removed, open the dryer door and remove the two screws that hold the door switch on the dryer. Reach inside the dryer and remove the two wires off the door switch terminals and unsnap the door switch from the plastic mounting plate.

Set the ohm-meter to RX1 and touch each terminal with a probe. A reading of infinity should be seen. While still holding the terminal and probes together press the switch button. The reading should now be at zero.

Failure of either of those tests means the door switch needs to be replaced.
Drive Motor

The main drive motor could be faulty as well. It is located on the between the drum and the inside of the cabinet. Refer to the owners' manual for front cabinet removal and removal of the drum. To test the motor, disconnect the green ground wire and also the wiring harness from the motor.

Have the volt-ohm meter set to RX1. Place one probe on the white wire terminal and one on the brown wire terminal. A reading of between 28 and 40 ohms should be read. Next place probes on the white terminal and the blue terminal. This reading should be between 25 and 40 ohms. Finally place the probes on blue terminal and the brown terminal. The reading should now be between 58 and 70 ohms. Failure on any of those tests will require that the motor be replaced.

Jan 09, 2013 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

New heating element is not working on roper whirlpool RED4440VQ1


Their are basically 2 circuits in the dryer. The motor circuit and the heater circuit.You didn't mention anything about it not working so the motor circuit which include the fuse is fine.The motor is 120 volts and runs on the black side and the white common. The heater works on the red and the black side and requires 240 volts. First thing to check is if you have 240 volts going into the machine between red and black on the power terminal. You will notice the heater had red wires connected to it. Them red wires also run through a few safety limits mounted on the heater chamber. If any of them limits is open you will have no heat. If all of the limits are fine and the heater is fine and you have 240 power to the dryer and you still ain't got heat, then it is a strong possibility your timer is bad. Remove the fat heavy wire on the timer and check for continuity between that terminal and all other terminals on the timer, in all cycles. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad timer.
Here is my home video of a dryer with a heat problem:


Nov 27, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Roper Dryer mod# Red4440VQ1 ser# my3678178 My prob is the dyer will not start unless it is in no heat mode. I think it's the timer Robert


sounds like the safty is keeping the unit from working check dryer vent for lint from outside to back of unit

Aug 27, 2011 | Roper Dryers

2 Answers

The front blowers in our 01 Chrysler Town and Country started only working on high for the longest time and then completely went out. The blowers in the back work fine. We replaced the resistor behind...


Hi, since you know where the resistor is, that is a good place to troubleshoot the system. The problem is probably the switch but may also be the motor. You will need a 12 volts test light to troubleshoot. You can get a test light for less than $10 if you don't have one.
First, pull the connector off the resistor and connect your test light clip to a good ground point (bare metal spot on the frame of the dash.
Verify the relay and fuse are good by turning the key and switch on and probing the dark blue wire at the resistor connector terminal. If there is no power there, the problem is the fuse or relay in the box under the hood.
If power is there, next check the switch by moving your test light clip to the terminal of the dark blue wire (key and switch still on, so you have battery voltage on the wire).
With the switch set to "1", probe the dark blue wire with the brown stripe. If there is no light the switch is probably bad. Check a few of the settings. For example, with the switch on "2", you should get a light by probing the dark blue wire with the orange stripe. On setting "5", you should get a light on the dark blue wire with a green stripe.
If the switch is working, the blower motor is probably bad.
If the switch is not working, check the ground connection to the switch.

  1. Pull the cup holder out, then remove the small plastic trim piece between the cup holder and the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  2. Loosen the 2 lower and 2 upper mounting screws, then remove the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  3. Disengage the wiring connectors from behind the HVAC control panel switches.

  4. with your test light clip still connected to the hot wire of the resistor connector, probe the terminal at the black wire with an orange stripe. If there is no light there, trace the wire and repair the connection to chassis ground.
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Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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Aug 03, 2011 | 2004 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Dryer tumbles but there is no heat and the timer will not move so the dryer never cuts off


HI. here are a few steps to help with the testing of your timer. follow carefully.
Take a close look at the timer motor control. Depending on your make and model, there may be a number of wires connected to it. Locate the wires that deliver power to the mechanism. These wires should be slightly larger in size than the other ones. Use your needle-nose pliers to remove one of the power leads. Pull the connector off the terminal by pulling on the connector, NOT the wire, or it may break the wire.
Lift the dryers control panel up and set your units timer to a normal dry cycle. If your multimeter came with alligator clip probe adapters, this will be handy here, so put them on if you have them. If not, any meter(ohm) will do.
Set the multimeter to read ohms (usually labeled R1 or RX1). Clip or touch one probe to the terminal from which you removed the wire. Touch the other probe to one of the other terminals. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a high reading, then the timer motor is bad and it's time to replace it.

Apr 06, 2011 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

2 Answers

I have a roper dryer 4 cycle model # rex4625ew1..I recently moved into a mobile home and I changed my plug from a 3 prong plug to a 4 prong plug..I did what the instructions said on the back of the dryer.I...


First, I'm confused about your dryer cord change. The green ground wire should NOT be connected to the neutral terminal block - but rather stay connected to the dryer cabinet. Here's a detailed link the describes (with photos) how to change a dryer's 3 wire cord to a 4 wire cord. This work should be double-checked to make sure you've done it correctly and have a safe installation.

Since you're not getting the dryer to run (you didn't say if it spins but has no heat or if nothing works at all) and you've checked the components of the dryer; the only thing left is to make sure there is 240 volts at the dryer outlet.

Make sure the power is ON. You should have either a 2 pole 30 amp circuit breaker or two 30 amp fuses that provide power to this outlet. Make sure the fuses are good / circuit breaker is ON (not tripped).

Do not touch a metal probe at any time that one is connected to the outlet in the steps below.

With a meter set to 250 volts or higher range - or a wiggy tester, slip each of the probes into one of the two straight blade openings in the outlet (use of a test lamp is discouraged as there is not voltage reading provided - it should only be used to indicate the presence of power). You should have a 240 volt indication (an indication of anywhere between 220 and 250 volts is acceptable).

Remove one of the probes and press it into the ""L" shaped opening; leaving the other probe in the straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present (an indication of anywhere between 110 and 125 volts is acceptable for this and the following 120 volt measurements).

Remove the probe from the "L" shaped opening and press into the "O" shaped opening. Again, 120 volts should be indicated.

With the probe kept in the "O" shaped opening, remove the other probe from the straight blade opening and insert into the other straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the "O" shaped opening and press into the "L" shaped opening. Again, a 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the straight blade opening and press into the "O" opening. There should be a zero volt indication. A value of one or two volts is acceptable - but zero is expected.

If you get results that deviate in any way from those listed above, there is a problem with the circuit. An electrician should be called if the circuit breaker can't be reset or if fuses blow. If the voltages are indicating correctly but dryer still won't operate, there may be an issue with cord wiring or internal controls or safety devices inside the dryer.

I hope this helps. Please rate this reply - thanks!

Jan 04, 2011 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Roper dryer movel RED4440vq1 drum does not turn. replaced motor, still not workking. belt is good. wiring harness is supplying 120 v on the 2 end red leads. door switch good. push to start button good.


The thermal fuse is likely blown. Disconnect power then remove the rear panel to access the thermal fuse on the blower housing.
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Once the panel is off, bypass the thermal fuse by joining the wires together then insulate them properly. Reconnect power and start the dryer. The thermal fuse is indeed blown if the dryer starts. Replace it including the cycling thermostat.

Oct 15, 2010 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat


Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .

Apr 28, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer will not start, has power to the internal light


HI. Normally, this will be an issue within the start switch circuit. If you have an interior drum light, and it will illuminate when the dryer door is open, this will confirm that the door switch is ok. Use the test procedure below to confirm failure to the dryer start switch. If the switch passes the test, simply replace the control sector. The control sector can be a timer module, or control board. It must be replaced, if the start switch passes the inspect, and test, below.


Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

Dec 24, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer continues to run unless I turn it off. Also the dryer is spinning but no heat comes out.


HI. The timer is responsible for the heating of the drum during the cycle. current is regulated by the timer. If the unit dose not stop, or has to be shut down manually, this will confirm that the timer is faulty. this will cause a no heat issue as well.

Here are a few more possible problem areas that will cause a no heat issue below.

  1. Hi Limit Thermostat failure
  2. Thermal fuse failure
  3. Centrifugal switch failure
Here are a few steps to help with the testing of your timer. follow carefully.

Take a close look at the timer motor control. Depending on your make and model, there may be a number of wires connected to it. Locate the wires that deliver power to the mechanism. These wires should be slightly larger in size than the other ones. Use your needle-nose pliers to remove one of the power leads. Pull the connector off the terminal by pulling on the connector, NOT the wire, or it may break the wire.

Lift the dryers control panel up and set your units timer to a normal dry cycle. If your multimeter came with alligator clip probe adapters, this will be handy here, so put them on if you have them. If not, any meter(ohm) will do.

Set the multimeter to read ohms (usually labeled R1 or RX1). Clip or touch one probe to the terminal from which you removed the wire. Touch the other probe to one of the other terminals. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a high reading, then the timer motor is bad and it's time to replace it.

Oct 10, 2009 | GE Dryers

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