Question about Skil Switch For 77 Hd77 Hd77m Wormdrive Saws

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I have a hd77 worm drive that is blowing breakers we changed the swith and cord and the brushes seemed fine but still blowing breakers whats next? armature?

Could you show us wiring for new switch marquart switch

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  • Expert
  • 106 Answers

Sound like the coil is shorted to ground. Therefore it blows the breaker.

Posted on Nov 30, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Asbestos 56
  • 191 Answers

SOURCE: i changed the switch and brushes. Still nothing.

is the commutator (part the brushes push against) all gouged up? What about wire after switch? Also sometimes the plug itself does not make good contact. Pull the switch and move the plug around in the outlet while you have the switch pulled (Watch out it may turn on) Make sure that there is power at the outlet, and try a different outlet.Check all your connections. My guess is the cord.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 3yr old

I think that you got it right. what I would do is take the armature out and take toa repair shop and ask them to put it on a growler. But after removing look for cut windings and raised commutator bars if either it is bad, also replace the brushes along with the bearings.

Posted on Jan 19, 2011

rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: Skill Wormdrive HD77 saw sparks

you have a problem with worn brushes or the armature might be failing. UNPLUG the tool and remove the brushes to check their condition length and look at the face of the brush for any unusual wear. Then look into the brush tubes themselves and slowly rotate the armature for discoloration/raised commutator bars.

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Skil HD77 that blows breaker

Check the cor first. The switch might have been wired wrong. The old style switch which is an Eaton seithc is wired differen t than the Marquart switch supplied now. An ohme meter will tell you which way the switch contacts work. Another common problem is the field leads will come loose from the rest of the winding and hit the fan on the armature. This can usually be repaired and taped back down so it no longer hits the fan.

Posted on Dec 16, 2011

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It sounds like the armature is bad. It should have an even dark ring around the bars of the armature commutator where the brushes ride. If one or two of the bars is discolored above and/or below that it could easily be bad. It could also be pitted between a couple of bars. Normally the space between the bars is even all the way around and nice and "clean cut" looking. If you have access to an armature growler you can test the armature. Hope that helps.

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Skill Wormdrive HD77 saw sparks are coming off the brushes


you have a problem with worn brushes or the armature might be failing. UNPLUG the tool and remove the brushes to check their condition length and look at the face of the brush for any unusual wear. Then look into the brush tubes themselves and slowly rotate the armature for discoloration/raised commutator bars.

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Look for the double insulated "square within a square" asbestos_56.png it should also have the words "double insulate somewhere.

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1 Answer

When I depress the switch the blade moves 1/60th of a turn. There is power to the saw. I changed the bushes and switch and there is no difference.


I would like you to make sure that the brushes are indeed touching the armature. It is possible that the brush holder is not allowing free brush movement through them, and that would cause this problem. If that checks ouf fine, I would make sure the cord is in good condition, and you are certain you dont have an intermittant break in the cord. Your next step will be checking the condition of the field leads, and continuity of the bars on the armature. Pull the brushes, and remove the 4 long bolts that hold the motor housing on to the saw. There will be another bolt that connects the housing to the upper guard. After you slide that back(if you meet resistance it is the 608 bearing on the back of the armature). The armature will stay fixed to the rest of the tool. You will then take a continuity tester and test from one copper communtator bar to another, until you have tested them all. I would imagine you have a dead bar on the armature, and you will know this when you test between it, and another bar, and there is no response from the tester. Let me know if this works. If not, please post back.

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