What is the cause of screetching v-belts when turning steering gear to left or right.

is there any check engine light on
are all drive belts on
vvt has nothing to do with the steering
is power steering oil is full in the reservoir
Hi thank you for update
you can start the car and even while it is running the steering is the same, any chance the hose are not install the wrong way if you had removed, if you jack the front wheels and turn ignition on car not running can you turn the steering left and right or end to end see if this work? did you check the compression on the cylinder which is misfiring
Can you start your car and were are you based

steering rack or gear . 2X2 - 4X4 engine . Depends on steering system .
When you turn the steering wheel, the steering gear rotates the pitman arm which forces the relay rod to one side. The tie rods connect to the relay rod with the ball studs. The tie rods transfer the steering force to the wheels. Use the tie rods in toe adjustments. The tie rods are adjustable. The pitman arm support the relay rod. The idler arm pivots on a support attached to the frame rail and the ball stud attaches to the relay rod.
The 2 tie rod are threaded into the tube and secured with jam nuts. Right and left hand threads are used in order to permit the adjustment of toe.

Binding linkage , steering gear worn etc....

Power Steering System Description and Operation (w/o Electro-Hydraulic Steering)
The hydraulic power steering pump is a constant displacement vane-type pump that provides hydraulic pressure and flow for the power steering gear. The hydraulic power steering pumps are either belt-driven or direct-drive, cam-driven.
The power steering fluid reservoir holds the power steering fluid and may be integral with the power steering pump or remotely located. The following locations are typical locations for the remote reservoir:
• Mounted to the front of the dash panel
• Mounted to the inner fender
• Mounted to a bracket on the engine
The 2 basic types of power steering gears are listed below:
• A recirculating ball system
• A rack and pinion system
In the recirculating ball system, a worm gear converts steering wheel movement to movement of a sector shaft. A pitman arm attached to the bottom of the sector shaft actually moves one tie rod and an intermediate rod move the other tie rod.
In the rack and pinion system, the rack and the pinion are the 2 components that convert steering wheel rotation to lateral movement. The steering shaft is attached to the pinion in the steering gear. The pinion rotates with the steering wheel. Gear teeth on the pinion mesh with the gear teeth on the rack. The rotating pinion moves the rack from side to side. The lateral action of the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods in order to change the direction of the vehicle's front wheels.
The power steering pressure hose connects the power steering pump union fitting to the power steering gear and allows pressurized power steering fluid to flow from the pump to the gear.
The power steering return hose returns fluid from the power steering gear back to the power steering fluid reservoir. The power steering return line may contain an integral fin-type or line-type power steering fluid cooler.
In a typical power steering system, a pump generates hydraulic pressure, causing fluid to flow, via the pressure hose, to the steering gear valve assembly. The steering gear valve assembly regulates the incoming fluid to the right and left chambers in order to assist in right and left turns.
Turning the steering wheel activates the valve assembly, which applies greater fluid pressure and flow to 1 side of the steering gear piston, and lower pressure and flow to the other side of the piston. The pressure assists the movement of the gear piston. Tie rods transfer this force to the front wheels, which turn the vehicle right or left.


Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

I found this video it may help you the explanation i think is simple !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF3W-vHPYHg

in a major cause the is the belt tensioner
or the belt is oiled in store the have a cleaner or degreaser
or you need to change the belt

With center bolt and windings removed apply wd40 to area where engine crank enters the armature. Also apply wd40 into hole where center bolt was attached. Let oil work for a while. Use piece of hardwood against metal part of armature and give a solid hit with good size hammer being careful not to damage wiring. If it does not come loose with first hit apply more oil then hit opposite side of armature. If after second hit no joy, spray carb cleaner into areas where you used wd40 and let sit (carb cleaner will thin wd40 for better penetrating action) , then hammer armature (hardwood over metal part) one solid hit . Give oil time to work, crank is taper fit and could have some rust. Good luck

First thing that comes to mind, check steering fluid and belt condition, as well as tension on belt.

Could be steering shaft on bottom of column that connects column to gearbox. Rag joint or u-joints on shaft are dry or seized. Try spraying rubber rag joint & u-joints on steering shaft with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Work steering wheel all the way to left,spray, then turn all the way to right & spray some more.

Working on 3.3Liter V6 Nissan Xterra, -Ok Take Neg Cable Off Battery,- Set motor to TDC Compression #1 #1 is front right Cylinder, -Remove Timing Belt, -Remove your timing belt tensior pulley, -Ok The Crankshaft Timing Sprocket take and remove outer spacer ring now take spray wd40 ect..behind gear try to get wd40 work between crank and gear i take hammer and gently knock the great back into the pump then i take crow feet and work the gear forward between the oil pump and the rear spacer ring then spray with wd40 and repeat process now if the lip of the spacer rings bends forward take straighten with vice and hammer, -Now time to drain Motor Oil,- Now Go to your right front Frame and remove 3 19mm head nuts off 19mm bolts from Idler Arm, push tires together Toe In, Watch your center link drop now you can began to remove your oil pan,Remove Starter, Remove the left bracket 14mm bolts and the right starter spacer Take Note: 14mm bolt just above the lowest starter bolt remove starter shim spacer, the 10mm bolts rear of oil pan 1/4 extiension and 1/4 10mm scoket -,The Motor mount 14mm nuts will have to be removed from the right mount almost all the way off your left drivers side mount, lift motor gently off right mount about 1 inch off the mount. Ok Remove Oil Pan From The Motor, Take Note 2 12mm head bolts right / left side of oil pump longest goes into alternator bracket, 4 10mm bolts 1 is hidden Lower right side Pump front now your oil pump will be loose to remove off pull forward to front of truck....I find that pouring Lucas engine oil stabalizer into the pump where oil filter mounts and turn pump until prime and take lithium grease and rub inside of front main crank seal..before installing new pump..!!! Take Note: if the crank sprocket gear is Stubborn I have seen Map Gas and i have seen holes drilled into front of gear, then Tapped and 2 bolt puller to remove the Sprocket but keep in mind your going to replace the pump so you can use a little force to get it to move just keep soaking with penatrating oil get it working back and forth....Hope this helps Oh yes Take Note: The converter Bolt Cover Will come out but the Engine - Transmission Spacer plate Will Stay in Place.I have seen tech take cutoff wheel and cut the engine Transmission Spacer Plate Where Starter Sits In And The left Side And Place it back into place where the bellhousing bolts hold it back in place but you should not have to do this..just thought it intersting...Dyi Nissan Xterra 3.3liter V6 Oil Pump R&R......

Remove the belt,and see if the power steering pump pulley is locked up,or any other pulley.

hi, the first thing i would have said the fault was was going to be a fan belt/ alternater belt if this is to loose or to tight then this can give you the noise you are hearing, one way of finding out if its a belt making the noise is to go out and get a spray like wd40 and then spray this on the belt then if the noise goes away you then know that its that belt causing you the problem.

If the belts have not been replaced recently then this could be the cause of your problem, spray the belt with a spray or even soapy water then give you car a try if your using soapy water make sure you get the whole belt wet then try the car if the noise is then gone you know the belt is at fault.

If you have power steering then low power steering fluid can cause the power steering pump to squeek so check the level and fill it up to the highest mark then start the car and turn the wheel fully left then fully right then back to the middle then check the level again.
Low steering fluid can cause the noise you hear.

If after doing this its not the belt making the noise and neither the power steering pump then the only thing left that could cause the noise you are having is a dry bearing on one of the pulleys now this could be the alternater pulley or power steering pulley basically any pulley that the belt is running on could be causing you the noise you hear.
To stop the noise you need to buy a spray oil or spray lube then give these pulleys a good spray all around where the bearing is in the middle if the bearing gets to dry it can sieze and cause you loads of problems so go and buy a spray lube and give all of the pulleys a good spray at the front and the back try and get it in towards where the bearing is in the middle this should then stop the noise that you are hearing.

you can spray wd40 on the pulleys but remember this isnt a oil or lube it will just stop the noise for a couple of minutes so you could tell witch pulley is causing you the problem your better of buying a proper spray lube and give all the pulleys a spray where the bearing is in the middle this should then solve any noises you hear.

Make sure you check the engine oil level to rule out the noise coming from the inner workings of the engine ok


Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok.

your key may be overly worn and need replaced, but try jiggling the key and steering wheel at the same time. if that doesnt work try sraying a penetrating oil, like WD40 or PB Blaster, into the lock cylinder. it could also be the gear shift safety switch not disengaging or a faulty ignition switch