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The unit seems to be working in that it makes noise when it detects motion and I believe I have the correct PIN. However, I don't seem to have the instruction. Also,the manufacturer has a forum but does not accept new registrations. I have searched the NET for a manual or someone who knows the few simple steps to press the ARM and DISARM buttons. At present, the only way I can find to ARM and DISARM is to insert and remove the battery. Any suggesions would be appreciated. http://www.sdsmarket.com/HA_125_Infrared_Motion_Detector_Security_Alaram_p/ha-125.htm There is a 60 second delay after arming for sensor warm up and exit delay. When activated, the alarm cycles twice with 30 or 60 second rest in between. The duration of the alarm can be programmed for 30 seconds, 60 seconds, or 90 seconds. Re-entry Delay can be programmed to prevent alarm from going off for 15 seconds, 8 seconds, or zero seconds giving you time to disarm the unit.

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Will the Fab u motion with stitch regulator work with a Pfaff 2046?


You should probably verify with either the vendor selling the stitch regulator unit or your Pfaff dealer. It would be best to get a guarantee before purchasing.

http://www.allbrands.com/products/21646-free-motion-assistant-7x9-frame-with-quilters-crui#tab_product_description

http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/free-motion-assistant-t98619.html

http://www.allbrands.com/products/21647-free-motion-assistant-7x9-hoop-frame-qcc-w-o-stitc#tab_product_description

...

May 09, 2016 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to ARM and Disarm a self contained ALARM system


An alarm that only sounds for a couple or three minutes, easily defeatable by way of crowbar on plastic? come on.

Nov 30, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a Bradford White water heater (model# MITW50L6LN10) that started making noise yesterday. Tonight when the family got home we started a bath for the kids and surprise surprise no hot water left in...


Probably cheaper to fix existing water heater.
The problem might be the power vent, or the power vent might be short cycling because the gas control valve is bad, or vacuum switch has gone bad.
Call Bradford White and get their recommendation for your specific model.
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/contact.asp
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/supportserv.asp
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/findaserial.asp

Bradford White is very good brand of water heater
Rheem, Richmond, GE are good.
I prefer the AO Smith, American, State, Reliance, Craftmaster. Kenmore, Whirlpool brand since air intake screen is located on bottom of unit and can be inspected and cleaned without removing burner.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Feb 09, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

How do i setup the motion detection on my wancam




How to Turn Your Webcam Into Streaming Motion Detecting Surveillance System


Download Surveillance Tools for Windows MajorGeeks

Yes is the answer to your first question. Maybe, it the answer to the second question. Motion sensors can affect schedulers. For instance, some schedules turn the lights off five minutes after they came on due to a detection. And that is irregardless of whether the scheduler is due to keep the lights on during a scheduled time. And they do it after five minutes every time. That is simply an example from real life. But only you know how your particular setup is acting. I'm only confirming that they well may interact. As to how you "find the sweet spot" of getting them to act in concert just the way you want, only the manufacturers or experienced security professionals would know, probably from some grid matching particular scheduling software with particular motion detectors. (Yes, I made that up, the software manufacturer probably well knows what works with what because they tested it on something!)

Aug 20, 2017 | Home Security

1 Answer

HAND CRANK WON'T MOVE NEEDLE SEEMS TO HAVE LOST CONTACT WITH GEAR


adjustment info here. http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/15.pdf

And here is a manual for you. http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/34_sm15.pdf

Those stop motion pieces must be put together correctly. Also make sure your needle is fully seated into the needle bar. Also look for any binding of metal parts. I had a 128 that came to me with a bent take up lever that would catch and make hand cranking difficult.

Good luck.. you'll love your old singer when you get it going well. Take your time and try not to get to frustrated.

One more thing... this blog is awesome if you are working on old singers.

http://vssmb.blogspot.com/search/label/fix%20%27em

Jul 27, 2012 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a vizio 47" lcd tv that was affected by a


I believe the main baord is bad (main board contains the inputs circuits, tuner, sound and video processor).
http://www.shopjimmy.com/vizio-3642-0722-0150-main-unit.htm

http://www.shopjimmy.com/vizio-3647-0102-0150-main-unit.htm

You may want to look inside to see if you can see any burnt components.

If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Parts: http://interliquidparts.com/

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Jun 23, 2011 | Vizio SV471XVT 47 in. LCD TV

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