Question about Washing Machines
The splashback may be a design fault.
Posted on Nov 29, 2014
Testimonial: "it is possible, however it did not do this for the first 3 years. It only began recently and on the surface it all looks the same. Even the rubber seal seems in tact and in position. It's really odd."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi Paul, Assuming it is pumping out ok, Unplug the machine tip it back at an angle, underneath you will see a black hose that is attached to the bottom of the drum, remove this, take out the ball and discard it and remove anything that may be in the filter, replace the hose and try the machine.
Posted on Nov 30, 2007
you may have blockage in the drain pipe several feet from washer. if you can run spin cycle with hose in different location ex. tub,sink or outdoors. if this works run long snake down washer drain pipe to clean gypsum residual.
Posted on Jan 28, 2008
Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
It sounds like you have a leaky inlet valve assembly. The part number is 421029P and is easy to replace. You can get one here:
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
SOURCE: Washer Lid Seal
Part 722572 is not the correct part. 722572 is the straight 21" seal on the front of the lid. You need to round lid seal, which is about 50" and I cannot find anywhere on the internet. It is like they want you to buy the entire lid which is not cheap. I put a 1/4" nylon rope under the seal. I melted the ends together so that it would not fall out. This pushes the seal out. It appears to be working so far. I may go and buy a weather seal that has self adhesive if this rope stops working.
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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