Question about Kenmore Dryers
So far I checked the motor relay and replaced the timer switch and still have the same problem
Good call on the timer switch. If the teeth have worn at the start position, starting would be delayed until the timer is rotated beyond the worn area. The normal operation of the start button is that it should to be pushed in and held for a second, to prevent inadvertent starts.The problem could be related to the door latch. The door safety switch will make intermittent contact if the door is not completely latched. If the door has become misaligned from downward pressure, it may not be drawing the door in enough to push in the switch. First check the alignment of the door. If the door is low, try bending the hinges back up. Open the door just enough to get your fingers inside the bottom of the door and slowly pull up. If the door is better aligned it may push the switch in better. Close the door and try the dryer.Next try holding the door in with one hand and pressing the start button. If the dryer starts every time while pushing the door in, then the latch is worn and should be replaced. I hope this solves the problem.
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A likely cause is failure of the relay.
the start switch provides a current to energise a relay,
the relay latches open (draws energize current from switched circuit) until current path is broken by the timer or door switches.
if the wires have come off the relay(happens) or the coil of the relay has failed, there will be no start.
With plug pulled
trace the wires from the start switch, to the first device, looks like this may be opaque. if any of the wires have come off refit them and retry start.
relay diagram looks like this test with meter for conduct between terminals labelled 85 86 (or Coil in other labelling standard),
or take to appliance parts store, can test and provide replacement on site.
Appliance part store will likely provide part labelled whirlpool, not a problem all the small parts are interchangeable
NOTE dryer relay may have up to 8 terminals,
2 for coil
3 (open close common) for each phase
Posted on Oct 30, 2008
this problem sounds like it can only be 1 of 2 problems. the start button or the motor is not going into run winding. i found over the years that the blue wire i believe is burnt at the motor. this can be repaired quite easily .cut the wire and strip it putting a new connector on. if you need to you can buy an assortment at a hardware store. if every thing is good check the start button for burnt wire if ok then you most likely have a bad motor. i'm pretty sure though that a wire is burnt off at the motor
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
SOURCE: I have a 5 year old Whirlpool Electric Dryer, Model #LER7648KT2. The Dryer won't start. I have checked the door switch, start button switch and visible thermo switches or thermostats with an ohm met
There are usually 2 thermal fuses in dryer circuits. One is on the
heater housing and will blow in an overtemp condition around 310-350F.
The other is on the blower or exhaust housing and will blow around 200F
Make absolutely sure the 2nd one is continuous and not intermittently functional. This will definitely stop the motor from functioning
Below is a diagram for an older model (LER4634). Your dryer has some additional terminals probably because it has additional drying cycle options.
The diagram may be more readable when copied and pasted into a plain text editor such as Notepad or another editor with non-proportional fonts
|TM |TM |BK |BK |BK |
|WB |OR |BU |BU |R |
|-- |-- |V |-- |-- |
|O |X |O |X |X |Auto - High Heat
|O |X |X |X |X |Auto - Low Heat
|<> |<> |~ |X |O |Cool Down / Fluff
|O |X |O |O |O |End of Cycle
|X |O |O |X |X |Timed - High Heat
|X |O |X |X |X |Timed - Low Heat
O = Open (Infinite Resistance)
X = Closed (Continuous)
<> = Either (But not Both)
~ = Doesn't Matter
NA = Not Applicable
TM - Timer Motor (Different Models may use different colors)
WB - Black/White
OR - Orange
BK - Black
BU - Blue
V - Violet/Purple
R - Red
Example: For the Auto - High Heat Dry cycle, the following terminals are continuous:
<TM - OR>
<BK - BU>
<BK - R>
(of course since BK-BU is continuous and BK-R is continuous, then BU-R is also continuous.
This should allow you to test at least some of the cycles your timer switch has
I have a general schematic in PDF for whirlpool for gas and electric, but did not see an option to add an attachment to this message.
Hope this helps or point you in the right direction.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
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