Question about Dryers

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The dryer comes on but does not turn or heat, Why ? The dryer terminals have the proper voltage.120/240

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Another thing to check for is bad or burnt connections and even the motor switch. The motor may be running but it also has a safety on the switch that allows the current to flow to the elements when the motor is turning but if it's not turning the current isn't allowed to go to the elements. So if these contacts in the motor switch are burned out the dryer will run but there won't be any heat.
Another thing that will cause no heat is the timer itself (burned out contacts) and maybe even one of the safety stats on the outside of the heater shroud. This problem can be tough for the average person to locate the source if they aren't able to use a voltage tester/meter to trace the problem.

Posted on Nov 29, 2014

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You have voltage to the dryer's element, but do you have it coming out? As far as the drum turning goes, you need to check the belt. Make and Model would help too.

Posted on Nov 28, 2014

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I need to replace the heating element


If the model number is correct, the heating element can easily be replaced by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and and turn the unit around so you have full access to the back panel. You may have to disconnect the exhaust vent hose.

2. Remove the screws around the perimeter of the rear panel. Remove the panel and set aside.

3. With the panel removed, the heating circuits are located on the RIGHT-HAND side. The heating element will be located inside a heater box.

4. Remove the two leads from the heating element terminals and the thermostat (label them to ensure you reinstall them properly). NOTE: Using a digital camera works well also.

5. Once the component leads are disconnected, the heater box can be removed by locating the screws holding it in place. remove the screws and the entire box comes off with the element inside.

6. The heating element is usually secured inside the heater box with screws along the side. Remove these screws and the heating element will slide out.

Reinstalling should be self-explanatory. Make sure you DO NOT handle the element coild with your hands. The coil is fragile and oils from your hands can create hot spots and potentially cause the element to prematurely fail.

You can helpful exploded view parts illustrations at the following websites to assist you with your repairs:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com

Now...with all that said, are you sure the element is bad? The following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.


If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Oct 28, 2010 | Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer will not heat. was working fine but i moved and had to rewire a new cord on then when complete it will turn on but no heat. Is there a chance the thermal fuse needs replaced?


Verify your voltage at the wall receptacle before assuming you have a dryer problem. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two HOT (left and right) terminals. If the voltage is not correct, you may have a breaker tripped somewhere. Most homes utilize a single dedicated 220VAC breaker for the dryer circuit. However, some older homes, may use two 120VAC breakers. So, if you are missing half your voltage, you may have a breaker tripped, or a bad receptacle.<br /> <br /> If the voltage IS correct, you may not have your power cord installed correctly. Since you mentioned you changed the power cord, you may want to go back and verify how you have it installed. The following link explains how to properly install an appliance cord to your dryer:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord">http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord</a><br /> <br /> <br /> Make sure you have the wires correctly terminated at the terminal block in the back of the dryer.<br /> <br /> <br /> If the power cord is installed correctly, and the voltage at the receptacle is correct, UNPLUG the dryer and check the continuity of the power cord. Perform a resistance check from end to end to ensure the cord isn't broken.<br /> <br /> NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run with half the input voltage, but won't heat, is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC to run. This voltage is tapped off the source voltage. The heating circuits, however, require the full 220 service to work.<br /> <br /> If you have any questions about these procedues, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Aug 24, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

There is no heat when i turn it on. Doesn't work on any setting.


If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
NOTE: If the model number you listed this question under is correct, your heating circuits should be in the back of the dryer behind the rear panel. This is an easy configuration to access and troubleshoot. The following link shows a parts illustration: http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

Jun 11, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a kenmore elite he3 dryer and when you turn it on theres not heat what might be the problem


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Kenmore Elite you remove the lower toe panel directly below the door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. The heating circuits are on the right hand side under the drum. DO NOT service the interior of the dryer while it is plugged in. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the dryer turned off.

The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: On some dryers, the TCO may be referred to as a "Thermistor".

Sep 13, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer works but will not heat up, can I replace the element myself? kenmore mod: 110 63032101 type: DDOT ELE 2406028-CV54


To answer your question, "yes", replacing a heating element is a simple repair that you should be able to perform yourself. However, the problem may/may not be the heating element. There are several things that can cause a dryer no heat problem.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. Your heating circuits are located on the lower right side of the dryer cabinet under the drum. You will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door to access. The elment is inside the heater box while the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermstat is located on the outside of the heater box to the left of the element. The TCO is located in the rear, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located near the heating element terminals. NOTE: Make sure the dryer is unplugged while taking any resistance checks. Make sure you disconnect any terminal wires before measuring to ensure accurate readings. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 13, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer works but does not heat up.  The dryer will tumble but there is no heat coming on.


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 11, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will run but not get hot can you tell me what to look for or replace? Serial No# M83925914 and Model No# 110.86874800


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 09, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

No heat


hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the
heater relay causes high current draw and damages the
terminals on the heater relay on the main control board.
check it out..
thank u..
kindly rate my response..

Jul 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer is not heating


The following link explains how to troublshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The first step in troubleshooting this problem is to ensure you have the proper voltage at the receptacle. Take a reading across the two hot terminals at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. This is the RED and BLACK wires where the power cord connects. To ensure your safety, please follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer.
2. Remove the coverplate on the terminal block.
3. Connect your meter leads and plug dryer back in.
4. Take your voltage measurement and UNPLUG dryer.

You should get a reading of 220-240VAC. If the voltage is incorrect, you may have a bad power cord, or a breaker tripped. Check the voltage again at the receptacle. If good, and bad at the terminal - you have a bad power cord. If it is still bad, check the service panel for a possible tripped breaker. Some homes have a dual breaker for the dryer. If one breaker trips, the dryer will only be getting 1/2 the required voltage. The dryer drive motor only uses half the input voltage and will still run, but the heating circuits require the FULL service in order to work. This will give you the symptoms of a dryer that runs, but doesn't heat. If the breakers are set, and bad at the receptacle, you may need a certified electrician check the wall receptacle.

If the source voltage is good, you have a problem in the heating circuits. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is clogged or poorly installed vent ducting. This causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. The common failed part is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). The TCO acts as a fuse and if it trips, it must be replaced.

Please read through the link I provided and make sure you check everything, to be sure. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

May 04, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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