- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
then id not plug it in again , the breaker goes telling you there is a fault in the device , also could be too many items on that breaker , ive got an ole vaccum that will trip my breaker out if I run my radio and try to clean up at same time , but will not trip if I switch radio off b4 use .got to be such a bother that I stuck a post-it on vac that says "radio" just to remind me to switch it off b4 I clean up , saves me from running down three flights of stairs to reset it !!!
You have a short in there and that accounts for the tripping circuit breaker. If the insulation on the heating coil has gone that could be a good reason for the issue. Open it up and look for the short.
Depends on whether they are on the same circuit or not. Most small air conditioners draw enough power that they need to be on their own circuit. And it's best if a steam humidifier is the only appliance on it's own circuit.
If they are on separate circuits, it they should be fine. If they share the same circuit, look at the amperage of both (as shown on the appliance listing label, add them up. They must NOT exceed 12 amperes for a 15 amp circuit, 16 amperes for a 20 amp appliance circuit.
If either one is listed in watts, just take the wattage listed and divide by 120, which is the wall voltage and you will have the amperage. On air conditioners you are looking for the total wattage, NOT the locked rotor (LRR) or motor amps ratings.
Very small window air conditioners can usually share a circuit, if the amperage draw of other appliances is small enough. I doubt that it would work in this case, if you try it the worst that can happen is it will blow the circuit breaker or fuse. This will happen (usually) after a period of time for a circuit breaker or when starting for a fuse.
You are using too restrictive of an air filter. If the codes you are getting off the lights says anything about a high limit this is the cause of your blower running all the time. Use a less restrictive filter or have your contractor install a media filter in the system. if you reset the furnace and it does not stop running the blower you have a stuck limit switch and may have to get another or call a service tech to reset it or replace.
Somewhere in the mess you have described there is a short that is compelling the transformer to put out more current than what it is designed for. It gets hot, really overheats, insulation melts, and the wires melt. Ergo blown transformer.Problem is with whatever that unit is plugged into/powering..
Hello, in order to turn your humidifier on with the furnace the 120 volts coming from your humidifer you must hook it up to a step down transformer, then the transformer will provide 24 volts to you humidistat and solenoid valve. So you need a wire from the HUM on your control board to transformer primary side and a wire from neutral on the board to primary side of transformer. Then you need low voltage wire from secondary side of transformer to humidistat from humidistat to humidifier.
Review figures 5, 6 and 7 on the installation instructions and compare with how you wired your installation.
The red wires are not used if you use a mechanical humidistat, (are used with electronic humidstat - supplies 24 volts and go to "hot", "commod" on humidstat). Yellow wired to "Hum" whether electronic or mechanical humidistat used.
If using sail switch or current sensing relay, cuts into one of the yellow wires. - One yellow goes directly to humidisat, then comes out of other side of humidistat & runs to to relay (or sail switch), and comes out of relay (or sail switch) and runs back to humidifier.
The pressure switch is not allowing the igniter to heat up. Pressure switch is blocked or the flue is blocked. Take the draft fan off and inspect the flue. Also inspect the rubber hose connecting the fan and pressure switch make sure the ends are tight. Make sure the hose is clear and not restricted. And the pressure switch sometimes is position sensitive. I don't think it has been moved or anything. And very rarely do they go bad.