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Your oven is obviously getting power if the light is on. If your heating elements are not getting hot you may have had a switch go bad, a wire come off it's terminal, or possibly a fuse that blew if your unit has one. There is really no way to know exactly where the problem is without taking the unit apart and visually inspecting it. If all the connections and switches look good, some electrical diagnosing is needed to see where the problem is. If you find any wires or switches that have any melted or burned plastic, you will need to repair the connection or replace the switch. If there is no obvious problem, you should have it looked at by a technician who can properly diagnose the unit.
I have the same toaster oven and it developed the same problem.
There is a thermal fuse with a 172C trip point. I replaced it with a new part and it worked fine for another week. I replaced it again with a fuse with a 192C trip point and that's been working for a couple of months now. Some pointers for replacing the fuse.
1) you need a Philips screwdriver with an 11" (30cm) shaft to get at the screws behind the control panel.
2) you only need to take off the feet and open the right side (looking at the toaster from the front).
3) The thermal fuse is in a white flexible plastic tube, held in place with a metal bracket.
4) You can pull the old fuse from the wire clamp using 2 pairs of plyers. I re-used the same clamps to connect the new fuse to the existing wires.
5) Replacement fuses can be found on EBAY for about $1.50 (includes shipping from Hong Kong)
The door of the Hamilton Beach Model 03008 or similar toaster oven does not stay closed when the door return spring or the hook it connects to breaks. The repair is very simple and takes just a few minutes!
The door spring is about 1 inch long and connects to a small clip on the inside of the left side panel of the unit. To see the small clip and the door spring, you simply remove the left side panel of the toaster oven which is done by removing just one screw.
The mounting clip on the side panel for the door return spring is located about half way up the side panel near its front edge.
The other end of the spring (its bottom end) connects to a metal hook. If the spring is not connected on its bottom end then the wire hook is broken. This is a simple repair that only requires a few inches of metal wire.
The other end of the metal hook (its bottom end) is connected to the bottom of the door hinge where it inserts into a small hole in the left side mounting hinge of the door.
When the steel hook breaks on either end then the spring cannot function, so the door does not stay closed.
To fix this problem, you simply get a piece of steel wire that is about 1/16 inch thick and a few inches long.
Bend the wire to make a hook at one end that the spring will connect to.
Then insert the other end of the wire into the small hole on the left side mounting hinge of the door. Then bend the wire on the inside of the hole to make a U or hook so the wire stays mounted in the hole of the door hinge.
Then adjust the position of the bend on the other end of the metal wire so the spring will have good tension when it is attached to the hook and to the clip on the side panel.
To do this you make the U shaped bend on this end of the wire to be about 1/2 inch from the end of the open end of the spring when the top end of the spring is attached to the mounting clip on the side panel.
To attach the spring to the wire hook, first remove the spring from the mounting clip. Then hook the spring onto the hook (bend) you made at the top end of the wire, then just stretch the spring to connect it to the mounting clip. The door will now stay closed.
I had the same problem with my Breville B0V650XL. It worked fine at breakfast, then wouldn't turn on the next time I tried to use it. Judging by the comments on this site, this appears be a common problem with this and many other Breville products.
I fixed my toaster oven by replacing the thermal fuse assembly. This part costs $4.39 on ereplacementparts.com. It's a shame that an expensive toaster oven is rendered useless by the failure of such a cheap part.
Replacing the thermal fuse itself is very simple - you'll need a small wiring nut and a phillips screw driver. Unfortunately, getting to the part requires removing the oven cover and about 40 screws. A long, magentic scewdriver is essential for parts of this job. It took me about 1 hour to fix my oven - two minutes to replace the fuse and the rest of the time to remove and replace the oven cover.
May not be too hard to fix. On the thermostat, you will see 5 wires coming from it. black and white on top (leave those alone), and on the bottom of the switch, there are red white and blue wires. The white wire with the burnt connector(from use) is the problem. I had that switch apart, seen how it works. The 3 wires at the bottom (red, white, blue) is like a spst center off switch with white being the common center wire. Red is for oven, and blue is for toaster. After I rebuilt the switch the first time, and it happened again, I just bypassed switch by connecting that burnt bottom white connector, to the red timer wire connector. Oven will work, toaster will not. The oven turns off when timer runs out. Can also unplug or turn down thermostat all the way so it does not use much power when done using till timer runs out. If you have a spst(center off) switch, you can mount that too to the side panel if you find one rated for it. Just make sure the bottom white wire is used as the common center wire. B&D will not sell that switch that is broken. I tried that before I took that switch apart. Glad I did take it apart as I am sure their new switch would have failed quickly as well.
Of course, the cord should be replaced. If you can do it yourself, then check with Sears or your local hardware store for a new cord. If you still have the manual then check in it for a service center if you need someone to fix it for you, or maybe Sears or hardware store could help.
Here is an web address that will give you a list of websites that sell oven parts if you can do it yourself and are still looking for a new cord.
Hi there. I just repaired mine. The wire connected to left side (as you are looking at the front of the toaster) of the front top heating coil had come off. I replaced all four of the crimps going to each side of each of the top two heating coils as well as the wire going between the front and back coils on the left side. Make sure that you use HIGH TEMP crimps and HIGH TEMP wire. I had the crimps and purchased the wire from a ma and pa repair shop here in my town
It is usually one of two items that could cause this problem. You need to take the outer shell off. Lots of screws. Pull the "brain board" from the right, front of the oven. There is a relay housing. This 30 amp. relay is made by Omron. Look at the connector pins on the back side of the relay, especially the white wire that goes to the distribution block then on to the heating coil. I find that the soldered pins on the pc board next to the relay often get so hot that they 'shed' the solder. If so, simply clean well and re-solder. The relay itself can also go bad. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to obtain replacements. What I did on one oven was to buy a 30 amp, open frame relay (~$20). Mount it on the chassis near the fan. Remove the Omron relay and simply run the appropriate wires to the open frame relay. That works very well.
THERE IS A SAFETY MECHANISM ATTACHED TO THE DOOR THAT TURNS OFF THE OVEN WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR. INSIDE, BEHIND THE KNOBS THERE IS A SPRING THAT ATTACHES TO A WIRE THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE DOOR. WHEN THE DOOR OPENS THE WIRE RELEASES THE SAFETY MECHANISM AND THE OVEN SHUTS OFF. WHEN CLOSED THE WIRE PUSHES AGAINST THE MECHANISM AND THE OVEN WORKS. I WAS ABLE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO RECONNECT THIS FEATURE SO THAT THE OVEN WOULD WORK.
You need to go to your local Harbor Freight Tools and pick up a security tool kit for $9.99 so you'll get the bits required to remove the special screws. You need to remove all the screws around the outer edge of rear and then pull the white rubber plugs out of feet and remove the screws from feet. Then the entire cover lifts off of unit. That exposes where the power cord enters the back of unit. You'll see a smaller black wire leaving that area going over to the timer knob. Before the wire gets to the timer knob, there is a sleve covering the wire. If you'll cut the zip tie holding all the wires together, you can slide the sleve (mine is red) backwards toward where the power wire comes into unit. That will expose the inline fuse that is blown. You will need to call Delonghi to order the wire. It is pressure fitted on. You should be able to pull the connectors lose by hand on each end. Simple fix!!