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Need a repair manual for DSE mini grinder S1J-AJ2-10

Replaced commutator brushes, checked continuity. Switch works but speed controller may be faulty. I can't buy new parts until I know the specifications of the existing ones.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Krazytech
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SOURCE: F1 error on SS Amana Convection wall oven

F1=Electronic range control failure

It is telling you may have a fauilty control...need to replace control or EOC

Posted on Jun 04, 2008

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danny_murray
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SOURCE: ryobi angle grinder broken locking nut

You should be ablt to find it at anylowes or home depot.If for some reason thet do not have one I would call the local industrial distributor like grainger or msc

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Sunbeam Deep Fryer Model df6300 4litre

Yes, You must first check if there is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. I know on must deep fat fryer there are many safety switches to prevent grease fires. If one of these switches have failed your deep fat fryer will not heat. If you don't have power and your breaker will not reset there is a good change your fryer has a shunt trip safety. If you still have the manual it will help greatly. If not you can go on line and find the manual with a troubleshooting guide. Good luck

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need help clearing and programming in new speed dials

I actually found the "Installation Manual" to accomplish this. Switch the button on the top front of the phone to "Program". Then the screen will show a "PITS-PGM NO?" display. Type in "*" then "#" and it will ask you for the "PASSWORD". Type in your 4 digit password, the default one is "1 2 3 4". When you enter it in correctly, it will display "SYS-PGM NO?". This is where you can enter in the "number" associated with the task you are trying to perform. For speed dials, it was 001. For date and time it was 000. Using certain buttons on the phone you then navigate accordingly. Hope this helps!

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get grinder to turn on. Checked brushes. . .

Did you check continuity to the field/brush holders. They have a garter spring that sometimes became overheated and broke. It seems like you have done everything else. Let me know

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

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Either your new brushes don't meet up with the armature properly or the commutator is damaged. Brushes usually 'wear in' within the first couple minutes of running. If it's getting excessivly hot you most likely have bad armature contacts and need to at least resurface the commutator or replace the armature.

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Are the strips of the commutator smooth and flat?
(Not to insult you. The part of the armature that the brushes ride on)

If they aren't, the brushes will bounce up and down.
I put one end of the armature in a drill, and have a helper run the drill. The other end of the armature rests in the front bearing of the grinder head, which is fastened down. (To a bench) Then I use a medium tooth, (B astard) file to dress the commutator bars flat.

I also put medium grade sandpaper in-between the brushes, and the commutator surface to dress an arc on the brushes. (Turn the armature by hand while keeping the sandpaper in place)
Brushes come with a flat surface. Putting a radius on them to fit the arc of the commutator, gives them a good contact surface to start from.

Be sure the springs are putting pressure on the brushes. Sometimes the brush mounts need to be cleaned, or the brush will not slide through the mount like it should. The brush will again, 'Dance' on the commutator. (Bounce up and down)

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