Question about Saniflo Plumbing

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Saniflo says the bottom of shower should be 8" from floor. But what is the lowest the shower can be and still function ok?? Will 5" give enough slant? Or, how high does the water get in the sanibest u

We already installed a shower 5" from the floor by chisling out the concrete for the trap. Will this work for the Sanibest unit?

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Sorry but they give you 8" for a reason, they did the testing etc. You might get by at 5" but that will probably just get by and limit the service life.

Posted on Nov 27, 2014

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SOURCE: saniflo sanibest continually running , noisy ...

The float switch will be the problem.
We do not replace the switch, just change the unit as labour to strip and replace switch makes it un economical.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

vetteman3002
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SOURCE: I have a saniflo sanibest

Did this problem just start? Or is this a new installment?

Posted on Nov 12, 2010

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1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

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5. place cloths and papers around pan
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14 if you can remove the blockage then do so - re-instatement is the reverse of removal.
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